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Anubis225

Can't print with ABS 1.63mm filament

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I just bought the Ultimaker 2 Extended. It works virtually flawlessly with the Ultimaker PLA. I bought a 3rd party ABS filament because it was $20 cheaper however it wont extrude during the print. It works fine during the filament change and cleaning out the nozzle before the print. The filament is significantly smaller at 1.63 mm in diameter. Would changing the flow rate fix that? i have already tried using glue on the build plate. I have not re calibrated the bed but I have only had it for a few weeks. What would you guys suggest to fix this? I really don't want to have to replace the 3 rolls I bought.

Edited by Guest

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I think there will be an adapter kit to turn you 3mm ultimaker into a 1.75mm printer so that you don't have to throw away filament. This kit will be available at 3dsolex.com but until then I recommend you put it aside for a while and buy some 3mm filament (actually 2.85mm! 3mm filament is too large for the UM although most people who say 3mm mean 2.85 or 2.9).

What country are you in anubis? If you are in Norway I can get you a free trial kit most likely. Or possibly in USA. Possibly.

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I think there will be an adapter kit to turn you 3mm ultimaker into a 1.75mm printer so that you don't have to throw away filament.  This kit will be available at 3dsolex.com but until then I recommend you put it aside for a while and buy some 3mm filament (actually 2.85mm!  3mm filament is too large for the UM although most people who say 3mm mean 2.85 or 2.9).  

What country are you in anubis?  If you are in Norway I can get you a free trial kit most likely.  Or possibly in USA.  Possibly.

 

That's cool. I suppose it would be a bowden 6-2mm dia to fit to the nozzle throat and a nozzle 1.75 + 0.2 bigger bowden clamps so it doesn't slip on retracts? That should make the ptfe coupler last longer since its cheaper to replace a ptfe bowden than a ptfe coupler. Also should allow to print cooler pla/abs

Edited by Guest

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One of the 1.75 mm prototypes just found it's way into my printer and it appears to be working fine. So I guess it should not take too long before the 1.75 mm kit is ready for the market.

There are some things to sort out though, the bowden tube for example.

I am using the original tube, which works fine, but I think there will be a more suitable one once the kit is ready.

If you urgently need this kit, I guess you could offer Carl at 3DSolex to help testing it.

5a33103081be2_2015-08-11-60621.thumb.jpg.5638ad31c7e0148209c3e1886a480339.jpg

The unused one in the picture is the 1.75 mm version (I needed ABS for this print, which I don't have in 1.75 mm yet)

5a33103081be2_2015-08-11-60621.thumb.jpg.5638ad31c7e0148209c3e1886a480339.jpg

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The problem I found using 3mm fia bowden for the 1.75 filament was that filament hysteresis after a few minutes increases the chances of breaking the filament inside the bowden (happened a lot on my early days of modding it to 1.75). Ofc 1.75 needs (or better put 'can use') less retract distance but the filament will curl on itself without the correct preassure of a 2dia bowden.

Oh also a note that might not be applicable to um2 since its different. If the bowden goes through the hot zone since its thinner than normal ptfe couplers. After 1-2kilos of pla 200-220C the tip burns brown a bit and compresses to 1.9+/- after another kilo it gets worse. But it's only a 2-3mm tip area so it's easy to take out and make a clean cut to keep using. I have tested a lot of combinations and the most solid on umo and stable it's to buy a prfe isolator of 2mmdia (china) and use a bowden 6-2mm (used for budas). The ones from reprap europe shop have a very nice centered exit. The problem it's that the 6mm clamp slips so the normal clip fails to grip it. I solved that by changing the circle where the clips goes (on my magnetic head changer) but also pneumatic clamps work. On my robert feeder I just used a 8mm cap and screwed the pneumatic. Works perfect. But for um2 no idea :)

Edited by Guest

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The problem I found using 3mm fia bowden for the 1.75 filament was that filament hysteresis after a few minutes increases the chances of breaking the filament inside the bowden (happened a lot on my early days of modding it to 1.75). Ofc 1.75 needs (or better put 'can use') less retract distance but the filament will curl on itself without the correct preassure of a 2dia bowden.

 

Carl at 3dsolex is planning to sell an "inner bowden" to take care of that.

 

Oh also a note that might not be applicable to um2 since its different. If the bowden goes through the hot zone since its thinner than normal ptfe couplers.

 

I don't think this applies to UM2.  As you can see in above photo the bowden is so far above the hot zone it should be at air temperature.  There is a fan (not visible in picture) behind the head blowing air through the middle zone keeping the white ptfe cool and the bowden and so on.

Edited by Guest

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Just wanted to share my experience. I have used a lot of bowden kinds. And ofc it's different on um2 but the fan only lowers the temperature of the netal isolator no the area inside the heater block, that where on my early test a thin bowden burns a bit. image.thumb.jpg.ff743ce19876e81689e64f7b7fd1ac81.jpg

image.thumb.jpg.ff743ce19876e81689e64f7b7fd1ac81.jpg

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Oh! Now I understand - you sent the bowden throught the peek part also!

No this is different, 3dsolex/Carl/Anders have a smaller inner diameter PTFE isolator and a smaller diameter olsson block and smaller inner diameter nozzles. So the bowden stops at the white part in the photo that Anders posted.

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