My Installation Of Olson Block And Fan Shroud (Layburns)

[bob-hepple 59]

Had to strip My UM2 as it was needing a clean and servicing so I decided to install Olson Block with new Temp Sensor and 35w Heater Ptfe Coupler ect. all purchased through http://3dsolex.com.

It takes me some time todo anything and preparation is my Key I downloaded Layburns Fan Shroud months ago and had it printed in Nylon. I also took the precaution of lining it with Kapton Tape. I am also installing iRoberts Feeder with some parts made on Lather, this is being done now while the printer is on its back so to speak. Mofified the Adjusting screw for the levelling of printer bed aswell.

As you can see I also installed a Korneel Spacer which I modified to take into account I'm Using I2k Spacer from 3dSolex.

will post more pics when finished that section I hope my machine will be Happy when finished.

[ultiarjan 1,223]

Like it all.... except I really don't understand why this fan shroud is completely closed at the bottom, I would expect less problems with deforming if the bottom was open ?

Anybody using this thing for a longer time ?

[bob-hepple 59]

Yes thought the same but not sure if Layburn was trying to stabilise the temperature. Sure gonna find out though. But I think it will still be better than the stock shroud.

[DidierKlein 729]

I have installed a similar fan shroud (just the back is slightly different.

The closed bottom is better to avoid a sudden drop in temperature when the fans are activated.

I like the design of this one, mine is printed in colorfabb xt with no kapton and they don't melt

[Labern 774]

I have been using it for a long time even printing with XT with no deformation of the bottom. Just a little on the left side. I printed mine with XT-CF20. The bottom is closed to stop the temp error and some have even asked for a more closed in design then the one pictured.

Personally I'm not a fan of printed shrouds so I'm in the process of getting metal ones made. It's just taking a bit longer as I have been busy working on other things.

[bob-hepple 59]

If you get them made in metal how would this effect the Olson Block I thought I saw something about the std shroud drawing heat away from the heater block.

I'd also open up the hole for the nozzle a bit more The hex wrench wouldn't fit through the hole I reamed it out, we are only talking about 1mm on the Diameter.

I'd would also be interested in trying a metal version if ordering multiples would be cheaper I thought of having one sintered

[Labern 774]

Yes the standard block does draw heat away if it touches. My fan shroud is designed with the Olsson block in mind so it doesnt touch.

Noted about the hole. Ill fix that.

Here is a pic of a flow test done on my shroud. Thought you may be interested. The Original UM shrouds velocity is about 0.6m/s

Edited August 19, 2015 by Guest

[neotko 1,417]

 

what software does that flow simulation?

[Labern 774]

what software does that flow simulation?

 

I actually didn't ask

Someone offered to do it for me.

[ultiarjan 1,223]

The hex wrench wouldn't fit through the hole I reamed it out, we are only talking about 1mm on the Diameter.

 

I don't get it ... the nozzle is sticking out underneath, so why would the hex wrench need to fit through? I never noticed this as a problem (using the standard metal UM2 shroud)

[Labern 774]

My shrouds sits lower then the metal one so it's the same height as when using the original nozzle.

[frederiekpascal 193]

 

@Labern any updates on the metal version of the fan shroud for our UM2?