Hello Didier from Belgium! 
Here are my settings :
PLA
Printbed 60°
Printing temp 210°
Flow 100%
Layer height 0,08mm
Shell thinkness 0.8mm
Enable retraction : yes
Printspeed : 30mm/s
Travelspeed : 120mm/s
Printspeed botom layer : 20mm/s
Infill 15%
No support and no platform adhesion
Extra question: Is there a way to view the settings of a gcode file used in Cura?
About the blue tape... that's what they advised me at the shop Trideus...
In Cura you can switch to layer view, This shows you layer by layer what its doing. so normally you can see if there are issues with your settings or model.
Is this your own design or can you share a file so we can see what its meant to look like?
Bluetape = Bed 0ºC. This it's a good solution if your print needs heavy fan-action at low high.
With Blue tape the bed should be off, or the adhesion disappear when the blue tape it's hot. I bet it wasn't hard at all to remove from the tape the print.
I think you need to increase the top layers for that bumpy base, increase travel speed to 150mm/s minimum to reduce the strings from the head moving from one side to the other. Also post your retraction settings and Fan settings.
Edited by GuestHi,
This is the model I tried to print : http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:158240
About the retraction and fan settings, I haven't enabled extra settings for this part in Cura.
I use Cura 15.06.03 and I can enable and disable cooling fan and retraction with no extra settings. Both settings are enabled.
Should I enable some of the advanced settings for retraction and fan settings? Which ones and what should be the perfect settings for this model?
As what I read now, these are my changes for the next print.
- remove the blue tape and clean the glass before I print (Didierklein)
- adjust travel speed to 150mm/s (Neotko)
anything else I'm missing here?
Travel speed you can even set to 200 or 250mm/s it's the speed for non printing moves. It will have a positive effect on the strings you see every where on the iron throne 
Blue tape is good but not mandatory on the UM2 and as Neotko said if you use it no need to heat the bed.
If you don't use it, for PLA heat to 60°c with a bit of gluestick on it (put some on the plate then apply smoothly with a slightly wet cloth).
Also add a brim if you have problems with adhesion
okay, any tips for the cooling and retraction settings?
Default settings work good normally, i rarely change these settings
Ok maybe Neotko or somebody else can help me out with the advanced cooling en retraction settings?
Try to change the fan so it starts as 0.8mm. A 50% should clean that bumpy base. The retraction should be fine by default. Try printing two blocks separeted by 2mm to see if all works as it should.
Try to change the fan so it starts as 0.8mm. A 50% should clean that bumpy base. The retraction should be fine by default. Try printing two blocks separeted by 2mm to see if all works as it should.
it's default on 0.5mm so i should put it on 0.8mm right? it's the "fan full on height" setting right?
It was at 0.5mm? Then get the fan at higher speeds. That base bumps look exactly like the problem show on the 3dprinting guide at http://support.3dverkstan.se/article/23-a-visual-ultimaker-troubleshooting-guide Check the first image 'Pillowing'
It was at 0.5mm? Then get the fan at higher speeds. That base bumps look exactly like the problem show on the 3dprinting guide at http://support.3dverkstan.se/article/23-a-visual-ultimaker-troubleshooting-guide Check the first image 'Pillowing'
minimum and maximum speed is 100% now, to what should I change it?
As what I read now, these are my changes for the next print.
- remove the blue tape and clean the glass before I print (Didierklein)
- adjust travel speed to 150mm/s (Neotko)
These changes will make very little difference. In general glass is an improvement over blue tape but blue tape worked fine for many years as long as you clean it with alcohol to remove the wax. But you seem to have more serious issues. The back of the chair is starting to look better but the lower part is a mess and I can't tell what it's supposed to look like. It appears that maybe you have underextrusion so I would go 10mm/sec slower on the printing part (and yes 150mm/s on travel) and I would go 10C hotter - your temp sensor may be off by 10 or 30C and that can cause your printer to print too cool (or hot) and too cool means plastic is viscous (like toothpaste instead of honey) so maybe 10C hotter will help. I wouldn't go over 240c until you have things working well. Can you print something simpler maybe that I know what I'm looking at? A 1 cm X 1cm X 1cm cube maybe?
Try a 30%. If I remember Cura will ramp the fan power each layer it get's close to the target height? Sorry I have not touch cura since they updated.
I recommend that since you are a beginner the settings department, that you should try to print easier stuff to test. If the air it's too high too-soon it might unstick and warp the print from the bed (mostly on edges), if it's too low the top layers and unsupported angles will curl-up.
For really complex angles that are just at the start of the print, the best solution for pla it's to use blue tape with the bed off (0ºC on setting). This way you can just put the fan to the max (or a setting more correct) to make clean raising angles.
It really depends on the model, the speed, the temp... For a complex print, everything matters to get a perfect finish. But in your case you are just looking to print ok for now. So, first. Print 2 boxes a bit separed to check that strings on the head. Also raise the speed as DidierKlein pointed out, this will make the head to move much faster so it will 'drip' less. Also since you are printing at 210C and the mm3 are so little, I think you could try printing at 190-200C. This need's a proper test on each machine can change. If it's too low the motor will skip and underextruder, if it's ok it will fill the layers just fine.
Ofc note that I'm talking about pla, every material has it's settings.
Edited by GuestTry a 30%. If I remember Cura will ramp the fan power each layer it get's close to the target height? Sorry I have not touch cura since they updated.
I recommend that since you are a beginner the settings department, that you should try to print easier stuff to test. If the air it's too high too-soon it might unstick and warp the print from the bed (mostly on edges), if it's too low the top layers and unsupported angles will curl-up.
For really complex angles that are just at the start of the print, the best solution for pla it's to use blue tape with the bed off (0ºC on setting). This way you can just put the fan to the max (or a setting more correct) to make clean raising angles.
It really depends on the model, the speed, the temp... For a complex print, everything matters to get a perfect finish. But in your case you are just looking to print ok for now. So, first. Print 2 boxes a bit separed to check that strings on the head. Also raise the speed as DidierKlein pointed out, this will make the head to move much faster so it will 'drip' less. Also since you are printing at 210C and the mm3 are so little, I think you could try printing at 190-200C. This need's a proper test on each machine can change. If it's too low the motor will skip and underextruder, if it's ok it will fill the layers just fine.
Ofc note that I'm talking about pla, every material has it's settings.
okay got it, so minimum fan speed 30% and max 100% right?
As what I read now, these are my changes for the next print.
- remove the blue tape and clean the glass before I print (Didierklein)
- adjust travel speed to 150mm/s (Neotko)
These changes will make very little difference. In general glass is an improvement over blue tape but blue tape worked fine for many years as long as you clean it with alcohol to remove the wax. But you seem to have more serious issues. The back of the chair is starting to look better but the lower part is a mess and I can't tell what it's supposed to look like. It appears that maybe you have underextrusion so I would go 10mm/sec slower on the printing part (and yes 150mm/s on travel) and I would go 10C hotter - your temp sensor may be off by 10 or 30C and that can cause your printer to print too cool (or hot) and too cool means plastic is viscous (like toothpaste instead of honey) so maybe 10C hotter will help. I wouldn't go over 240c until you have things working well. Can you print something simpler maybe that I know what I'm looking at? A 1 cm X 1cm X 1cm cube maybe?
will try that too and keep you posted, about the small stuff, i've printed small objects without an issue :
it's with the more complex objects that it's going wrong
That looks good. The failed print was with the same filament brand?
yeps all the same, bought in the same shop Trideus
http://www.icefilaments.com/ I think these are their own branded filaments.
Sold on the trideus site : http://www.trideus.be/nl/filament/pla/ice-filaments-pla/
You think I'll have better luck with the ultimaker of colorfabb filaments?
That looks good. The failed print was with the same filament brand?
I case you didn't read this :
okay got it, so minimum fan speed 30% and max 100% right?
For the bottom bumpy you can do that yes or increase the infill to make cleaner top layers.
I always do fan: min 100%, max 100%. fan helps things like overhangs and bridging immensely for PLA. For ABS you want much less fan if any at all. Fan helps overhangs greatly and it helps bridging quite a bit. It hurts the bottom layer though so you want it to come on gradually over the first mm or so.
What you are trying to print is not that easy and takes some experience to master to get it looking really nice.
have a read of this as it may help: http://www.extrudable.me/2013/12/17/highqualityultimaker2/
To have it looking nice you will need heaps of cooling and good clean retractions. I would recommend printing slow and as cold as possible. you can have travel moves fast though.
you can sink the model into the bed in cura and only print the top section to test your settings as this is the worst part. once you get that looking nice then try printing the whole object.
As promised some feedback.
I've been reading the past few days about tips & tricks for my Ultimaker 2.
This is a new print and I'm quite proud about it too
More to come, more complex prints are coming and I'll keep you guys posted.
THANKS A LOT, this was not possible without you guys. Much appreciated! <3
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DidierKlein 729
Hi there fellow Belgian!
Can you please share your print settings?
Why do you use blue tape on the UM2? The heated bed should do the trick
On the second picture it looks to me like you have underextrusion but it's hard to tell, and many things can be the cause
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