Ordered my first 3d printer. w00t!

[Gencab 19]

Thanks for all the help. Looking at neotko's suggestions and that build looks awesome. Will definitely be borrowing from the list of mods.

On the above image you can see the Ultibot on the left in a much more clear resolution with minimal drag. On the right is an OctoPi case for the raspberryPi . Turned out very well but I would suggest against a brim.

My UMO+ is coming along nicely and i'm getting a feel for some of the nuances needed for proper printing. I am grateful for the community and support provided here. It was most certainly one of the biggest features associated with Ultimaker. As soon as my time laps video is uploaded on my channel ill post here as promised.

[gr5 2,167]

Without a brim parts often warp up off the bed. If you get the right tools you can remove it pretty quickly with a nice razor. Usually I do my own custom brim in CAD and just put pads on the corners like the makerbot slicer does. But this is harder to remove as it's a diagonal infill - but worth it as you only have to remove a few spots instead of every little inside corner which is unnecessary - you only need the outside corners.

[ultiarjan 1,223]

I like custom ears as well...usually make them 0.3mm

[LePaul 321]

Congratulations on completing your Ultimaker

[Gencab 19]

Well I broke the cardinal rule when working with electronics and delicate equipment. I used to much force on the heater block and nozzle resulting in the nozzle snapping inside the heater block. Ruined both components.

I ordered a new end from fbrc8 but they are out of heater blocks so I hope they get more soon. I managed to find some knock off aluminium block on Amazon I can use until the official part is available.

This all started when my UMO+ was under extruding so I proceeded to clean the hot end via the Atomic method. Didn't seem to work so disassembled the hot end then manually cleaned both the block and nozzle. The method for cleaning is similar to the atomic method but I used a small torch to heat up the components then clean. Its possible I applied to much heat to the nozzle making it brittle but im not sure. When I went to re assemble the hot end I noticed a little plastic was left in the thread so I applied some force to ensure it was a good fit. Then snap. Talk about instant regret. Looking back on it I believe I should have installed the nozzle while the block was hot thereby negating any residue causing resistance. Is this a correct or am I looking at this completely wrong?

My hot end got clogged with a plastic called PTE+. Its some great stuff but it definitely takes more heat to use and can be a little more tough to get a clean print. So my printer is down for the weekend until replacement parts arrive. I have certainly learned some lessons on what not to do in this case.

[neotko 1,417]

My experience with other aluminium blocks it's quite bad. They use to have the PT100 of 3.1mm (pt100 from ultimaker it's 3.0m+/-) so even with the screw they are 'loose'. I don't know if with aluminum foil it can be fit but I have read some mix stuff from reprap forum users so In the end I have 6 chinese aluminum heater blocks that I can't use (but they fit with the pt100 they sell so at least I can use it on 1 machine). In my personal experience, just buy the heater to ultimaker or, get the really cool E3D heater (the new that use pt100) the fit it's much easy, almost imposible to break the pt100 because but the heater area it's for 20mm so you might have 5mm of heater on the air (not the best option but it's ok).

Btw if half the nozzle it's inside... You might be able to remove it with a screw remover tool? If I remember well something like this happened to @ultiarjan on an E3D block, I don't know if he was able to recover it? If with some tool you can recover the heater, it will be cheaper, and probably you might be able to go back to print this weekend if you have a spare nozzle.

[neotko 1,417]

Btw to tight the nozzle, use the Anders-Olsson design at youmagine. Works like a charm to not overdoit

https://www.youmagine.com/designs/nozzle-torque-wrench

[ultiarjan 1,223]

I got the broken nozzle out using a "screw extractor"

[Gencab 19]

I was actually looking at a E3D hot end but wasn't sure if it was a direct drop in part or If a special bracket is required.

I like Anders-Olsson design. Its like a mini torque wrench.

ultiarjan ill have to see if I can find anyone that sells extractors like that. I used to have a set about 10 years ago but haven't seen anyone selling a set like that. Amazon possibly? There is defiantly enough meat inside the block for an extractor to bite on to. Presently I have JB-Weld setting with a bolt. This should bond the bolt to whats left of the nozzle so I can back it out.

All things considered I am wishing Ultimaker gave us a spare nozzle with the kits. Seems common practice to have a spare.

[gr5 2,167]

Yes you can use e3dv6 parts that are meant for 3mm on the UMO. I sell e3dv6 equivalent parts here: http://gr5.org/store/ but you have to remove the fan shroud or print a smaller one as soon as possible:

https://www.youmagine.com/designs/yafs-yet-another-fan-shroud-for-umo

[Gencab 19]

I got the broken nozzle out using a "screw extractor"

 

So I got a set of extractors just like this. It completely deformed the block and retapped the threads. Bummer but I wasn't expecting that block to be salvageable. I don't think there was enough meat for the bit to chew in to. On a side note. That particular aluminum is very soft. Not sure what grade it is but it can be very tough to grab on to without deforming it even with my delicate component pliers. Replacement parts should start arriving today. I made sure to get extras.

[neotko 1,417]

The first block I had also got broken but after 15 or so nozzle changes and because it's soft like you say I broke the pt100 and had to use a hammer to extract the heater block. I wish someone would make a heater block like the olsson block but for umo with good quality brass.

[ultiarjan 1,223]

I wish someone would make a heater block like the olsson block but for umo

You can always convert to an UM2 style head and use the olsson block ....

[neotko 1,417]

 

I wish someone would make a heater block like the olsson block but for umo

You can always convert to an UM2 style head and use the olsson block ....

 

And start over again and buy new heater, fans, double head for the magnetic head changer? I don't think I have the strength in me for that (nor the cash).

[kelechi 24]

you will sure love the experience. Whn I got my printer for the first time too. I could not control the joy.