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LePaul

Just bought my first rolls of ColorFabb PHA/PLA

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I've been meaning to buy some for a while and finally got around to doing so.

Asides the instructions and suggestions on ColorFabb's website, any tips I should heed on using this filament? I have an Ultimaker Original , no heated bed.

I couldn't resist trying out the Dutch Orange and Shining Silver 2.85 filaments.

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Im doing 215 um blue with 50 0.06 at the mo. Trying out the new pla to see if its as good as the old one. Had a horror of a time with my coupler though and am only getting good results now.

Mind you i did 213 at 70 0.06 and it turned out fine. So im sure 213 is fine.

With colorfabb i find a little bit hotter is better than a little bit cooler.

Edited by Guest
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I've been printing with ColorFabb for about a year (I have tried ~10 colors-love them all) on my UMO and it's great. Depending on the color I'm printing 190-200 at 0.2 layer and speed between 30-50mm/s

If you want to go faster maybe increase that temp to 210.

So a lot cooler that normal PLA. I use a basic temp test print with each new color I get which helps me decide what temp to print at. which reminds me I should post that somewhere.

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On the Left, at 0.10 , 210C 50mm, no support or raft.

On the Right at 0.20, 210C 50mm support and raft (and I was too lazy to clean up)

I noticed if I started the print colder it didn't flow well, so 210 worked well all around. I did bring it down to 208 a couple minutes into the print.

Overall it looks ok...but curious on how to tweak and improve :)

IMG_9290.thumb.JPG.78c13c9ffad924c888603bbfec211aab.JPG

IMG_9290.thumb.JPG.78c13c9ffad924c888603bbfec211aab.JPG

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Agreed, I always start colorfabb hotter and bring it down, it works well, i start at 215-220 for the first few layers and go to 208 or whatever after. If you print too cool, it tends to crack, mind you i have not tried with orange but colorfabb black and red both cracked at too cool temps for me.

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Depending on how fast you're printing I would go even lower, to get the turck strigning to go away.

My "high quality settings" are:

0.1 layer

1.2 shells

30mm/s

190-200 degrees (depending on the color I am using, I print my dutch orange at 190)

NOTE - in the winter I will print 1st layers anywhere from 210-220 and heat the bed to 27 (with blue tape)

general settings for colorfab

0.2 layer

0.8 shells

50mm/s

still using 190-200 degrees (depending on the color I am using)

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@peetersm  Have you found the heated bed to be a big improvement over the Original without?

 

I'm so so about the heated bed, I only use it in the winter and just to get it to room temp 25-27 C. I don't print on glass and pva glue and 70C , I still use blue tape. I tried using the heated bed on my M2 and got poor results a lot of edge curling (known issues with heated beds) , also when I am trying to print a lot of items I don't want to wait for cool down to remove items and start another job. I suppose the UM heated bed might be better than the M2 but I'm content to stick with what works really well for me.

But I do like the new lead screw and the metal bed, 3 point leveling system. If those are big selling points maybe it's worth it. But on my UMO I'm happy to use it as is.

I am very happy with the UMO+ It has the new cuircuit borad with no fan! which I love. I've had to replace and fuss with my UMO board fan too many times. Also I love the pt100 since I have issues on the UMO with the temp reading going crazy from fan PWM signal interfereing with the temp readings. Honestly I think the UMO+ is the best value, since the um2 family all need so much TLC, and for a lot more money. But if you need the dimensions of the extend I understand that choice.

The only thing I've been really wanting to do with my UMO+ is add a second hot end fan, or do a shroud since the one side fan can make lopsided prints.

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