tasopoulos 40
Yep, I know that a resin printer would probably do a much better job, but unfortunately I don't have one Could someone give me some more info on this blowtorch method? How would I protect my model from melting in places it shouldn't?
Yep, I know that a resin printer would probably do a much better job, but unfortunately I don't have one Could someone give me some more info on this blowtorch method? How would I protect my model from melting in places it shouldn't?
lol I know, just means you are making life hard for yourself trying to print these kind of models, you should design something more appropriate for the printer in the future, in the meantime, just do it lightly with a flame, or print one it in colofabb PLA and dip it into acetone for about 45 seconds depending on what colour you use. I do the acetone method and have been doing it for a year now with almost zero problems. Just don't do anything flat. and it only works with colorfabb PLA as far as i can tell.
Edited by Guestits all the bridging, these kind of objects are better suited for resin printers like the form1. also all the retractions that are an issue. some people just use a blow torch to lightly melt away the strands. I tend to print more solid stuff though so cant offer too much advice on this.
That's what I thought too, until I stumbled on this article : http://www.extrudable.me/2013/12/17/highqualityultimaker2/
To be clear, I was not able to reproduce these prints. But I tried
This can be printed without the Stringing it will just take some time to experiment with the settings for that material. But once you get it then you can record the settings for another simular print. If you change to a different color you may need to tweek your settings slightly.
The best way to fix it is to either chop the model into a small strip or print 2 or 3 towers the width of the gap to save on material. No point testing on the full size.
I would stick to 30mm/s for all print speeds and have 250mm/s travel speed for starters. High travel helps to break strings as it leaves one side and there is less time for oozing as its traveling. 30mm/s gives a good finish and allows for cool printing.
Now start dropping the temp. Keep going till it fails. You should have found a sweet spot.
If you still have Stringing then print at that temp and now try increasing the retraction distance 0.5mm each time.
You can play with z-hop also.
Make sure your bowden is tight and doesn't move.
Always use good quality filament.
I would only print this in PLA.
Fans on 100%.
Olsson Block with smaller nozzle would definitely help.
Thats some very good advice.
That is indeed some very good advice, thanks @Labern! I'll try all that (hopefully) and let you know how it went...
Recommended Posts
cloakfiend 996
its all the bridging, these kind of objects are better suited for resin printers like the form1. also all the retractions that are an issue. some people just use a blow torch to lightly melt away the strands. I tend to print more solid stuff though so cant offer too much advice on this.
Edited by GuestLink to post
Share on other sites