Olsson Block - Bed Leveling 0.8 nozzle?

[markusmaker 2]

Hi there,

I successfully switched to the Olsson Block and made some prints with the 0.4 nozzle already .

Worked out very nice:

Now I wanted to try the 0.8 and 0.6 nozzles. But my question is - do I need to make anything different regarding bed leveling? At the moment I go up until the nozzle touches the bed and then I go two ticks back. I tried to print a simple wind wheel (https://www.youmagine.com/designs/wind-wheel) with the 0.8 nozzle, at 0.4 layer height and  30% infill.

The first layer turns out like this: (created with Simplify3D)

GCode file

The layer looks like a mountainous mess. The nozzles pushes the melted filament along. I have 3 skirt outlines with 0mm offset. In the middle you see the 2mm wide blade. Also in infill in the middle circle is a mess and totally overlapping.

The first layer from the gcode looks like this:  

The settings from simplify 3D:

colorfabb XT white, bed 70C nozzle 235C

Thanks in advance!

Kind regards,

Markus

Edited November 26, 2015 by Guest

[izzy 33]

Have you measured the actual 1st print layer, by the looks of the photograph it may only be 0.2mm although you have asked for 0.4mm, which would account for the nozzle pushing the other lines. I usually use the sheet of paper wich is about 0.1mm to level the bed or several together to get different levels. ( I have a sturing stick from costa coffee, and the very small post-it's, a block of 12 on one end with the top 2 cut so that I have 3 steps, 1.2, 1.1 and 1.0mm and the other end 2 giving 0.1 & 0.2mm works a treat to set up) but then I print a simple washer in 3 places but only print the 1st layer, I check their thickness and then adjust the screws, I have a 6 Point star on the knobs so for adjustment 1/12 of a turn on a M3x0.5mm screw = 0.04 approx. This allows me to fine adjust and check the level and nozzle gap.

Also check the actual nozzle diameter, do an Atomic pull clean and you will hopefully have a small nib and a bit from the nozzle diameter, measure this to check, my 0.4 nozzle is actually 0.37

Edited November 26, 2015 by Guest

[markusmaker 2]

Have you measured the actual 1st print layer, by the looks of the photograph it may only be 0.2mm although you have asked for 0.4mm, which would account for the nozzle pushing the other lines. I usually use the sheet of paper wich is about 0.1mm to level the bed or several together to get different levels. ( I have a sturing stick from costa coffee, and the very small post-it's, a block of 12 on one end with the top 2 cut so that I have 3 steps, 1.2, 1.1 and 1.0mm and the other end 2 giving 0.1 & 0.2mm works a treat to set up) but then I print a simple washer in 3 places but only print the 1st layer, I check their thickness and then adjust the screws, I have a 6 Point star on the knobs so for adjustment 1/12 of a turn on a M3x0.5mm screw = 0.04 approx. This allows me to fine adjust and check the level and nozzle gap.

Also check the actual nozzle diameter, do an Atomic pull clean and you will hopefully have a small nib and a bit from the nozzle diameter, measure this to check, my 0.4 nozzle is actually 0.37

 

Hi Izzy,

I will measure it today. the Post It Measurement Toolkit is a nice idea - I will try to "copy" that.

Regarding the distance nozzle-bed :

Is the distance always the same regardless of the nozzle diameter?

Thanks.

[bob-hepple 59]

Hi

I have not used that size nozzle, but I do use simplify 3d and I would doubt its the nozzle size, I would look at the bed level and increase the gap also your fist layer at 130 might be to heavy for the size of nozzle your using, and your extrusion width I would set to Auto. But I would use .80 or .60 unless your doing wood fill ect, from what I understand it will be like tooth paste from the nozzle and a mess is what you'll get, you could try to reduce the flow to tame the beast. (adjust the extrusion multiplier).

another thought before I ended I usually use different grades of Paper for bed levelling one sheet could be .20 and another could be .10 you could try starting to calibrate different heights to achieve a better gap, being more precise in what your levelling could lead you to predicted results.

good luck

[markusmaker 2]

Hi Bob,

the question is, will the Slicer take the layer height into account while creating the STL file? It would be special if I need to adjust the bed every time I change the layer height. So basically the question is how far away should the nozzle from the bed. 0.1 mm?

Thanks.

[tinkergnome 927]

It would be special if I need to adjust the bed every time I change the layer height. So basically the question is how far away should the nozzle from the bed. 0.1 mm?

 

Don't worry, the objective is that Z is set to zero if the nozzle touches the buildplate. There are no other dependencies.

The buildplate wizard assumes that you use a sheet of paper with 0.1mm height.That's all.

[markusmaker 2]

 

It would be special if I need to adjust the bed every time I change the layer height. So basically the question is how far away should the nozzle from the bed. 0.1 mm?

 

Don't worry, the objective is that Z is set to zero if the nozzle touches the buildplate. There are no other dependencies.

The buildplate wizard assumes that you use a sheet of paper with 0.1mm height.That's all.

 

Thanks - then I will try to get the right settings in Simplify3D for the 0.8 nozzle.

[tinkergnome 927]

Thanks - then I will try to get the right settings in Simplify3D for the 0.8 nozzle.

 

May i suggest as a starting point....:

 

• decrease the layer height to 0.3 (max.) - and use the same for the first layer (100% height and 50% speed)

• increase the printing speed instead (40mm/s should be possible)

• use more intermediate steps for the fan (don't go up from 0 to 100 in one single step)

• 80% for the three "underspeed" settings - no need to go too low here

• use a bit heigher temperatures for XT (245° - 250° results in a better layer bonding)

 

Edit:

...and lower the fan speed for XT (for the same reason) - you probably don't need more than 30% (except for bad overhangs or bridging).

Edited November 28, 2015 by Guest

[eldrick 65]

dupe post - sorry

Edited November 28, 2015 by Guest

[eldrick 65]

Once you have leveled the bed, you should seldom need to do so again.

What does need adjustment occasionally is the nozzle height above the bed. The easiest and most accurate way to do this is to install Tinkergnome's upgrade firmware in the Ultimaker, because it offers a menu item to adjust printhead height to zero.

I believe that this is substantially more accurate than the OEM bed leveling, because it takes out the subjective measurement using paper as a feeler gauge; you just use the knob to lower the nozzle height at the center of the buildplate until it visibly touches the glass.

And yes, the nozzle needs to be at the same distance for all sizes of nozzles.

Edited November 28, 2015 by Guest

[bob-hepple 59]

Fair Play I go with that but I don't know about the firmware I don't usually like messing with the firmware if Um upgrade there firmware (which they have quiet a few time in the last 12 months) how will this effect the moded firmware. are you locked into the moded firm until you need to upgrade for another reason.

[markusmaker 2]

thanks bob, eldrick and tingergnome! Its good to know that the community is very helpful here. Will post results when the printer is back from iGo3D.