Jump to content
Ultimaker Community of 3D Printing Experts
gholland

UM2+ or UM2+ Extended

Recommended Posts

I am purchasing my first 3D printer, and after months of research I've finally decided on purchasing the new UM2+. However, I cannot decide which model to purchase. The UM2+ or UM2 Extended+

From what I can tell the only difference is the additional height of the Extended model. Unless I am not getting it, you can still build the same items in both printers, you will just break it into smaller pieces in the UM2+. Is this assumption correct?

I've also read some reviews on the UM2 Extended, older version, that it had some issues with the Extruder. From what I can tell both printers have the same internals, so is this really the case?

Has anyone else purchased the UM2 Extended+ ... if so can you tell me what you think?

I would appreciate any help or advice.

thanks,

-gary

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I guess the final question is ... is it worth the additional $500?

What criteria would you use to determine which one?

If you had a project that can be built in the Extended+, but must be broken up for the UM2+, is the work required to break it up that time consuming as to justify the difference?

Since I've never owned a 3D printer I'm trying to get a handle on this.

thanks,

-gary

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

It's very difficult for someone else to judge what time is worth to you. Do you foresee printing a lot of models that would require the full height of the Extended? Or is it only a small percentage of what you're planning to do with the printer? Would spending 10 minutes to a few hours on gluing and maybe hiding the seam be less valuable to you than $500?

Try downloading cura (it's free), add one Ultimaker 2 and one extended and then load up a few models and play around with it (as long as the model is yellow, it'll print). That way it's easier to get a feel for what the difference in height actually means for you.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

If you want learn so many things about 3d printing buy Ultimaker Original DIY Kit. All this machines has same printing Quality. But when you can build your Ultimaker Original you will get know how what you also Need for using other machines. If you have enough money, hobby room and you are comfortable take an Ultimaker 2 Extended+. But People talking also about Ultimaker will release one new machine this year. I own UMO+ but UMO is really right choice.

good luck

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I have been printing for three years and when they brought out the extended I thought 'why?' as in all that time I have never been limited by height. I have wanted a bigger bed plenty of ties though, but after a while you will discover that it not the same thing.

If I (personally) were buying a UM2xx I would buy the standard UM2+

Unless you have a need for taller prints .......

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

You Need Extended. If you want print art objects or statues for example Eiffel Tower, Statue Of Liberty and so many other tricky stuff. But overall Ultimaker Original kit, heated bed upgrade kit (if you print only with PLA you don't need this) and dual Extrusion kit (if you think one color is enough you don't need this too) together is the right choise if you can build it yourself.

regards and have fun

p.s. I forgot to tell you "WELCOME":) to the Ultimaker user friendly community Forum.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Just out of curiosity, due to the um2+ having the ob, i'll assume it doesn't have that weird white thing my um2 came with, and now just flaps about annoyingly, what is its purpose???? its annoying me now, as i cant see the state of the entire nozzle, and blocks my view in general. is it safe to remove completely?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

You mean the little ring that sits around the nozzle? That's there to prevent plastic getting into the fan shroud in case something goes wrong. Anyone who's had that happen knows what a pain it is to clean up.

You can remove it if you want. But you might also be able to adjust the shroud and/or nozzle so that the nozzle goes down further. Loosen the four screws of the fan shroud and see if you can shift it up slightly. You could also give the ring with holes in it a couple of turns to move the nozzle down.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks, yes that white ring around the nozzle. I cant believe so many people had such a problem , ive never had anything so bad that it caused issues. Ive had a few string prints as i call them, but they just caused a massive mess a vacuum would sort out in a few seconds.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

lol, no of course not the nozzle, its melted! i meant when it just prints crazy in the air due to a bad model and a spool jam at once!! after 12hrs you just get a clump of clown hair as i call it with thousand of bits of plastic around it all over the bottom, in the main screw as well, lol. i only print my models now so that ever happened again.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

We decided on the extended as well, after talking to a few ultimaker owners who wish they had purchased the extended. We also plan on ding costume props, and in many cases, you want to print as large as possible to reduce assembling parts together.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I think you made the right choice for props. for high res stuff, i just don't see the point, it would take weeks!. personally, id prefer a wider printer than a taller printer.

Edited by Guest

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Wider printbed can be also interesting. But some solutions for warping is also needed. I know abs juice or other tricks holding bottom on the place but sometimes removing parts from print bed can also be really difficult.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Wider printbed can be also interesting. But some solutions for warping is also needed. I know abs juice or other tricks holding bottom on the place but sometimes removing parts from print bed can also be really difficult.

 

i print in pla so warping is a non issue. just for abs people.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Wider printbed can be also interesting. But some solutions for warping is also needed. I know abs juice or other tricks holding bottom on the place but sometimes removing parts from print bed can also be really difficult.

 

It would be nice to have wider, but of all the printers I looked at the wider ones could not meet the quality of the UM2E+ ... The height which this printer can print to would match the wider beds.  Also I would think you could layout your print (model) diagonally which would give you more space.

Edited by Guest

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I'm using also only pla. Abs is because of smell and high print temperature not so good choice for me.. I'm more interested about printing mechanical objects. like clocks, or some good old toys. Abs is not strong enough too (for example springs).

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

if you find the right glue/hairspray, then taking things off the plate is not a problem, there are many methods including air duster cans held upside down. even if i cover the entire base i can always take it off without a problem. just wait for it to cool, or super cool it. put it in the fridge.

dont waste your time using abs juice on pla that is madness and overkill.

Edited by Guest
  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×

Important Information

Terms of Use Privacy Policy