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mostlyatomicbob

Loose bearings in UM2+ Print Head

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So I recently added a UM2+ to my colection of Ultimakers, I noticed from the start that it was much louder than my UM2 (which is over 2 years old).

I also noticed the drop in quality in my prints since day 1 with it. It appears that the linear bearings in the print head are quite loose (not how they sit in the injection moulding) but the bearings themselves.

here is a little video I shot (apologies for quality)

wobbly head

Is anyone else having the same Issues?

I have put a ticket into the Uk reseller and I am awaiting their response.

Please note this is not a dig at Ultimaker I'm just curious to see if this is a problem for any other users!

Cheers

Bob

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If the 4 screws are tight... I had this on a umo+ because the LMU linear bearing was damaged, it did that 'clacky-di-clak'. I just bough other (only one was damaged) and send the other to the trash.

If you set new linear bearings, check the post from @DidierKlein about the X of the inner positioning, it's something I never seen documented anywhere.

https://ultimaker.com/en/troubleshooting/6375-top-layers-not-touching-um2?page=18#reply-121072

Btw Atomic method creator!! woohooo!!!

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'Does it wobble in both X and Y directions?' he asked, humbly looking down, avoiding eye contact with the mighty Atomic Bob.

Don't have any other records of this so I am also inclined to think your bearings are at fault.

Let us know what is what, and note @Neotko's comment about installing them in X-orientation instead of +.

Good luck!

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lol

Is there a way if you can see if it is the bearings wobbling in your housing, or the rods having room to play in the bearings?

Good that you're getting new bearings. Keep us posted!

By the way, what is the quality like that you have had on your Ultimaker 2+?

Was it bad surface finish, or something else?

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So It was the bearings, I swapped the rods and bearings about from my UM2 and UM2+.

Short story: bearings were duff.

3DGBIRE are sending me replacements, very impressed with their service.

The surface quality on the prints was beginning to suffer. should be all good now. I'm loving the new heater in the UM2+ it allows me to print fast and thick with a 0.8mm nozzle.

Bob

  • Like 4

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I don't have a link but basically you need to do this:

Pop the two rods off (simply push or pull them out of the guides that are on the belts).

Pay attention that one is smaller than the other (don't put them back wrongly)

It takes a bit of time to figure out how to take them out but you will manage.

Then take the head (the rods a removed). And remove the four lead screws. This will free the bearings, put the new bearings in the head, pay attention to the alignements of the balls they should be placed in X compared to the rods. (Four lines of balls inside, the X represents the lines) this will reduce friction in the bearings).

Put the four lead screws back

Put the rods back (pay attention to the length). And also that they still activate the end stops).

The rod in X (from left to right of the machine) should be something like 1mm away from the left panel).

The rod in Y should activate the end stop and not touch the front panel

Make sure not to move the belts or you would need to re align the rods.

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im assuming i need to uncsrew/loosen stuff like the timing pulleys attached to the rods, or can i just push everything through around the rods area, and only unscrew stuff on the head to swap out the rods. And where can i get the new bearings, they dont seem to be selling them on the UM store website?

Im pretty sure it will be very difficult for me to not move the belts while carying out this procedure? Knowing me ill move them. How difficult is it to realign the rods, is there a guide for that too?

Also im not too sure what you mean by

'activate the end stops' and 'The rod in X (from left to right of the machine) should be something like 1mm away from the left panel).

The rod in Y should activate the end stop and not touch the front panel'

I dont know which panel and what activating the end stops means? lol.

I want to make sure i do this right in case i just damage stuff further like i did installing my OB and not realising the bent shroud would hit the motor when it went home. I totally over looked that, as i didn't realise how close it went to the motor.

Edited by Guest

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Lol, I don't have any bearings, and I never usually ask for directions either. Once a 1 hour drive took me 6 hours just because i refused to ask for directions (times before smartphones and had no sat nav).!!

I called a re-seller and they will contact Ultimaker who will then contact them who will then contact me.

I thought it would be simpler to just ask ultimaker here, lol. I guess not? we'll see.

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I got 2 from a 3d printer shop here in madrid, they work. I would avoid ebay or china since you want them to work fine. Any shop that sells cnc or 3d should have ok bearings.

The only bearings I had that have failed me where ones that I got from a uk shop that I can't remember. Also, indeed they are very very cheap.

Edited by Guest

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Cheers! seeing as they need to be swapped out eitherway, i may as well go for the high quality bearings! I can afford 5€ each as i feel they are important considering they directly effect the quality of the print.

Im assuming they are both the right shape and will fit just fine?

Ill see how long my current ones last as the problem is just beginning, and drowning them in sewing oil is proving quite effective in clearing up the issues a bit. I may also have a bend rod somewhere but having left the printer printing random stuff constantly has ironed out the weird sqeaking noise so at least its not driving me crazy anymore.

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