It's a bit hard to see on your photo, but it looks like the wall lines of open print are not connecting in the X direction. Could indicate a backlash problem, usually small belts with too little tension.
It's a bit hard to see on your photo, but it looks like the wall lines of open print are not connecting in the X direction. Could indicate a backlash problem, usually small belts with too little tension.
Agreed, I had the same problem with some early prints. Also I would check that the pulley on the motor is mounted correctly such that it's not rubbing on the motor or that the belt is rubbing on the frame.
- 2 months later...
For the warping issue, set the skirt to 5-10 with distance of 0 in Cura. Then print with the fan turned off. (min and max speed 0 in expert settings) This works well for me for parts under 100mm. Once the parts get over 100mm, I'm still working out how to prevent the curl. If I figure something out, I'll post it. A heated bed would solve it, from what I've read online, but they are a pain in other ways. For now, I've been working around it by making big parts in segments which snap together.
The problem here is not "accuracy", which is at any rate fixed by the machine because of the belts
and pulleys. Only fiddling with the tension can optimise that.
What you are mostly dealing with is shrinkage. The plastic is going from 220 Deg C to 20 Deg C, although
PLA has a fairly low coefficient of thermal expansion its still going to shrink as it cools.
So all you can do is to measure what shrinkage you get by printing a very long test piece then scale
UP your STL files by whatever the shrinkage is. I think for me about +0.5% worked well.
Unfortunatley its very much like metal casting, the shrinkage also depends on the shape of the parts
and how they are constrained. Large solid areas will shrink alot, open areas which are mostly infill will not
shrink very much, also varies by the infill density and so on.
The very best you can do (realistically), is to work out your scaling factor and work to that. The shrinkage is what you get from cooling plastic and has nothing whatsoever to do with the mechanics of the printer or the software.
C.
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alaris2 1
for an UM that's an excellent piece. i'd be surprised if you can do better.
how accurate were you hoping for?
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