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Configuration UE2+ and ColorFabb XT- Filament

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Been printing with it for awhile for my business (www.pro3dservices.com), it's tricky to print. On our UE2+'s we use the following for XT black, white and grey:

You need a thin layer of glue/equivalent on the hot bed.

Print it around 250 (a bit hotter when moving faster, a bit colder when moving slower).

Bed at 70-75.

Speed 50-70 depending of your object.

Fan 0% at the begining so the bottom layers adhere properly.

Fan 50-75% after to retain details (the finer the details, the more fan).

Edit: I should add that i have yet found XT to be stronger than regular PLA which is VERY disappointing. Also removing support/raft is a pain in the... yepp.

Nylon is best for mechanical parts and rapid prototyping.

Edited by Guest

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You need a thin layer of glue/equivalent on the hot bed.

Hi Ronan, thanks for answer. I use BuildTak for best adhesion. (The only problem is to get the part back from) :)

 

Print it around 250 (a bit hotter when moving faster, a bit colder when moving slower).

Bed at 70-75.

Speed 50-70 depending of your object.

Have heard that it is better very slowly to print 30 to 40 Speed. How is this result by 50-70 and which nozzle you use?

 

Fan 0% at the begining so the bottom layers adhere properly.

Fan 50-75% after to retain details (the finer the details, the more fan).

OK I wil try this difficult XT - I have 4 Roll in different colors :(

 

Edit: I should add that i have yet found XT to be stronger than regular PLA which is VERY disappointing. Also removing support/raft is a pain in the... yepp.

This means for you ever again XT?

 

Nylon is best for mechanical parts and rapid prototyping.

That is very interesting. You print with UE2 +? What settings do you use?

  • Layer high =

  • shell-, botom / top thikness =

  • Fill density =

  • Nozzle size =

In UE2 + there when filling the filament's only 3 options: ABS, PLA and CPE. What then do I select? And I have every subsequent change to "customize" the values later, or is there a more elegant way?

Many greetings from Munich / Germany

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For Nylon i use regular glue stick on hot glass, zero issues. I have been told its better to use pva glue diluted in water (1/10 ratio glue/water).

I print with The Ultimaker 2+ and Ultimaker 2+ Extended (also use the Form 2). We own 2 of each.

To answer you:

Layer high = Depends of part

shell-, botom / top thikness = Depends of part

Fill density = Which ever the client request (usually 20%). If they want mechanical parts i suggest nylon or abs at 75%-100%.

Nozzle size = 0.4 and 0.6

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For Nylon i use regular glue stick on hot glass, zero issues. I have been told its better to use pva glue diluted in water (1/10 ratio glue/water).

I print with The Ultimaker 2+ and Ultimaker 2+ Extended (also use the Form 2). We own 2 of each.

To answer you:

Layer high = Depends of part

shell-, botom / top thikness = Depends of part

Fill density = Which ever the client request (usually 20%). If they want mechanical parts i suggest nylon or abs at 75%-100%.

Nozzle size = 0.4 and 0.6

 

Hello Ronan,

Thanks for your tip. Will it take in my database, so I find it again.

Currently I try to print colorFabb XT. Have a small part starting with green, that in my opinion has become good. Despite starting problems. Look here. Stupid thing was that I got the part almost from the bed (BuildTak).

My second attempt was not so good. Look here. What am I doing wrong? The layers do not stick together: Layer: 0.12 | Shell thickness 3.2 | Fill Density 50% | Print Speed 30mm / s | Nozzle 0.4 | Travel speed 120mm / s | Bottom Layer Speed 15mm / s

Many greetings Armin

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XT has a hard time stickign to itself and once it does it becomes brittle. I am not happy with XT honestly.

Usual issue with delamination (layers not sticking to each other) is it was layered too cold. So pump up the heat. Then you will have an issue of parts being brittle.

I have not found the 'sweet' spot for settings even after doing 12+ prints with XT. It's either a delamination issue or a brittleness issue.

For now i have switched to Nylon Bridge which is very good/strong (although a bit too flexible, even at 100% infill for mechanical parts).

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I have to agree with the comments above. XT is difficult to get right. The main issue seems to be that it doesn't easily stick to itself so you tend to end up with wall layers that have not fused together properly and infill looks like a tangled mess. I have been able to get a decent result up to 40mm/s but trying to go faster than that and it becomes unpredictable. I don't trust the result to have the strength I'd expect.

As it stands, ColorFabb XT is not a material I can recommend.

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>The main issue seems to be that it doesn't easily stick to itself

All higher-glass-temp materials have this problem. It's because the layer above isn't melting the layer below. Common solutions are:

Printing hotter (usually not the best solution)

Turning off fan or lowering fan to minimum (about 25%)

Enclosing machine so air heats to 40C or 50C.

It's tricky to learn a new material like ABS or XT after printing PLA but you may remember it took you a while to get really good at PLA also. Anytime you try a new material expect a long learning curve.

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