Ultimaker original problem with slight dripping after done printing.

[Ca3PO4 2]

Hi , im trying to troubleshoot this annoying dripping i get each time the print is done it ruins the work by driping over my print how can i prevent this from happening.

Here are some pics

and my settings, its an ultimaker original.

http://www.mediafire.com/view/8g4wg4q8pr8b0by/crown..jpg

http://www.mediafire.com/view/vnjtxbm2w5ho4b4/crown....jpg

settings

http://www.mediafire.com/view/9hl076czhbyp2c3/settings.jpg

and link to the file

http://www.mediafire.com/download/j3x38ow8z55nqy6/new.stl

hopefully someone can help me out with this problem with the oozing on the print at the end of the print. Thanks

[Ca3PO4 2]

No replies hmm, hmm common im sure there someone knowledgeable out there?

[BrayChristopher 36]

That thing is really small.

First, I would rotate it so that all of the support material in on the least important side. Then I would raise it off the bed so that the entire part is suspended in the air. Let it ride on the support material.

I will try printing this tonight.

You might need to print 2 or three at a time to make sure that the top doesn't over heat.

[BrayChristopher 36]

https://ultimaker.com/en/community/prints/925-i-think-it-is-a-tooth

I used Simplified 3D to slice it.

3D Universe brand PLA filament

210C nozzle / 60C bed

Cooling fans on after the first layer.

0.100mm layer height

[yellowshark 153]

210c is too hot for PLA at 0.05 layer and 40mm/s. It my be that this is causing it to overflow a bit and dripping the filament at the end. Start at 190c, you might be able to go lower.

Also the 1st picture confuses me. Is that two separate models?, one facing up and one facing down?, the sizing looks different; although you have a raft so that might be deceiving me. When the printing stops does the nozzle stay put? - I see you have a 15sec minimum layer time with no z-lift; I am not sure if the minimum layer time is executed on the last layer as I rarely print anything which hits the minimum layer time.

As BrayChristopher said you may be better printing two or three models to hit your minimum layer time (10 secs would be OK) without the printhead stopping; and you will need to reduce you print temp. to avoid stringing if you do that

[neotko 1,417]

Basic rule of 3d print. If the item it's small, print more than one at the same time. If it's pla, cooler = better quality (cooler being also slower). The final drip can also be that the final endgcode Retract isn't enough to stop the drip. Or that the head does homing after retract (and that's very slow).

[Ca3PO4 2]

Hello there thanks for all your help I will also share a link where I initially got started in meshmixer on designing this print before exporting into Cura . I used a 20 micron scanner to scan a dental tooth stump. Then I have to fix up the mesh in meshlab and put into meshmixer and finally Cura for my ultimaker heres the link to my thread on the meshmixer forums http://meshmixer.com/forum/index.php?topic=2714.0

Also the idea here is to seat the printed crown onto a tooth stump which you will see in my post on the meshmixer forum and that can aslo be printed as thats the idea behined it to print the tooth and seat it perfectly onto the stump. So like the support has to be as far from the bottom of the crown or margin since thats the part that gets cemented into the patients mouth. So the support must go on the sides or the top also known as the cusps as to not interfere with the seating on the stump. So its best to print it upside down or sideways but then i get that annoying dripping on the margin dont know whats causing it i called ultimaker they are looking into it, i sent them the file and they said that in the layer view you can see the extra layers at the top which are responsible for it, they said they are still working on figuring it out whats causing it. One lady at igo3d Germany suggested to remove the

G0 F9000 X115.354 Y109.494 Z17.042 command from the Cura generated Gcode , however i cannot locate such a code when Cura generated the gcode from the .stl so im still waiting for help. I will try all of your suggestions such as printing more at a time , I seen the pics from BrayChristopher however unfortunatly that print wont work for this application as the margin of the crown has to remain unaltered and it wont fit onto the stump i scanned because the support made it jagged, please see my link from meshmixer forums you will see the stump there.

I will see how printing more at a time will help . Also in a couple days im getting 1.75mm moulday with a 0.2mm nozzle, gonna try it with that see how it works out.

[neotko 1,417]

You won't be able to do complex prints like this with 1.75mm unless you change the hotend/bowden/coupler (it's sold as a kit on 3dsolex distributors). The think about printing more than one at a time it's because the printed material doesn't have enough time to cold down, so you really must print 2-3-4-5 at a time if it's that small.

Also, try to fix the object using netfabb cloud (google) it might have errors and to print reliably you need a really well constructed object without intersections, etc. netfabb cloud free service fixes most of the problems.

Sorry I wasn't able to understand the object but to print complex small objects you really need to understand the heat/speed/fans/material, etc. pushing random filament won't make it easier. There are a few posts from other users, specially Labern https://ultimaker.com/user/labern since he won a guines for world smallest working drill. He do know how to print really tiny stuff.

Edited February 20, 2016 by Guest

[peggyb 171]

you can try the 'cool head lift' in the expert settings. this lifts the head away from the print at the last layers to cool the plastic. There will be some strings but they are easy to remove.

Or print two (or more) next to each other with "print all at once' from the tools menu, like @neotko says.

[BrayChristopher 36]

So like the support has to be as far from the bottom of the crown or margin since thats the part that gets cemented into the patients mouth.

 

.... Wait. What. I don't mean to be negative, but I wouldn't put that in anybody's mouth. I mean, maybe if you used a different printing process, like titanium SLS or something.

http://roedentallab.blogspot.com/2011_10_01_archive.html

And for super small detail like this, I would highly recommend looking at SLA or DLP printers. This is what they are good at. I have no personal experience with them (yet).

https://all3dp.com/best-sla-3d-printers/

http://www.iboxprinters.com/

http://www.miicraft.com/applications/dental/

https://peachyprinterks.backerkit.com/hosted_preorders

http://www.instructables.com/id/Little-Dipper-SLADLP-3D-printer-for-under-500-proj/

http://www.instructables.com/id/Chimera-60-DLP-resin-3d-printer/

You could also take a casting of the original part that you scanned and duplicate it. This way the material would be solid and there would be no layer lines.

Smooth On

[eldrick 65]

We're all hoping that the end result of this is that you proceed to use the printed plastic part as a model for lost-pla metal casting, although I suppose it might be useful as a temporary cap while a crown is made.

[Ca3PO4 2]

Hi , the plastic isnt going in the oral cavity, it getting burned out in an oven then the form gets pressed with a biocompatible ceramic, I know quite alot on biocompatability, I hold a doctorate with the faculty of dentistry I was and am involved in research . I am aware of the DLP and SLA printers, I was considerig them however right now im using the ultimaker and must say at 40 - 50 microns the lines arent visible. Especially if we print it in wax then it can be hit with a quick blast of a torch and any lines if any disapear. There was a doctoral thesis on this performed by a student in the Czech republic , the individual had used a rep rap printer for his experiments and concluded that it is accurate. And I must say I am happy with the results im getting , the crown fits, the lines arent visible at 40 microns in PLA also the tight fit is really good, so i must say this method will work. Temporary caps yes this could work also but im going full ceramic with these. Also I have been playing around a bit and have discovered something interesting alright when I do 3 at a time in cura iv noticed that when I flip one of the 3 crowns I get the problem which I was getting before removed you can see it in my pics , ok here it is before i fplip one crown , you see the blue line at top and the extra red lines below which would cause the dripping of meterial which ruined my print.

http://www.mediafire.com/view/h8z47i911jp1a8u/prob1.jpg

Now take alook at what happends when i flipped just one crown

http://www.mediafire.com/view/khav54ajdzacyoj/prob2.jpg

The blue line dissapears and only one crown has the extra layers overtop of it hmm, iv printed it and this works but why must i have to do this flip one crown to eliminate the blue line at the top ?

[Ca3PO4 2]

Yeah I tried the 1.75 mm filament and as mentioned above it didnt really work , the feeder didnt like it. So im just gonna go with stock 2.85 mm filament but i swapped the nozzle to a 0.2 and im seeing a significant increase in fine detail.

[Ca3PO4 2]

What sort of settings would be recomended when printing with a 0.2mm nozzle with 2.85 filament, i mean i have reduced ther flow to 70%, print speed i do at 40 mm/s anything else to help compensate for the smaller nozzle?