Jump to content
Ultimaker Community of 3D Printing Experts
skewcrap

UMO strange issue

Recommended Posts

Dear community

I have an Ultimaker Original. My printer is not perfect, there are some various issues, different things I want to improve. Recently I installed a new bondtech QR3 since the original extruder broke. I made a test print, and the result was fine.

Then I started a longer 8h print, and when I came back, this was the result:

5a3319b78e8a7_Foto11_03.16174034.thumb.jpg.db043575ae4521c217b6d0cd88dcc4c9.jpg

5a3319b6c1d13_Foto11_03.16174013.thumb.jpg.f319359ed22fb2188a539dc587b34ab1.jpg

5a3319b7ed0af_Foto11_03.16174052.thumb.jpg.33e701966b46506898c824692568da0f.jpg

Does anybody have an idea what happened? The hot end was completely covered with PLA.

Maybe I could sell the pieces as modern art^^

5a3319b78e8a7_Foto11_03.16174034.thumb.jpg.db043575ae4521c217b6d0cd88dcc4c9.jpg

5a3319b6c1d13_Foto11_03.16174013.thumb.jpg.f319359ed22fb2188a539dc587b34ab1.jpg

5a3319b7ed0af_Foto11_03.16174052.thumb.jpg.33e701966b46506898c824692568da0f.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Holy sh****. Yep sell it as modern art - Cthulhu Edition :D

What's with the right side where it draws the thin filament shell? Maybe the print went well for a while and then it did not stick to the bed and the plastic accumulated at the nozzle. Or the nozzle was partially clogged and the filament curled upwards.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

That's exactly the problem I imagined on my head with an extruder that strong... Imagine the filament it's water, and ptfe coupler, barrel, nozzle, are the pipes. If there's an error (ptfe coupler dead, nozzle not tight, any space at all) the water will leak and will find its way. With a normal extruder you would have just the extruder skipping because some part has gone cold and it can't move more. With an overpowered extruder the filament will keep pushing no water what.

So with a bondtech you really need tnmake sure everything it's on it's place or it won't stop.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

So you would assume that the print just did not stick to the heated bed plate (it was 65°C)?

How would you clean it? Ethanol?

Regarding the bondtech: Can you install it the wrong way? I mean, I changed the E-steps with the Ulti Controller, but since there is no manual for the QR 3.0, not even on the bondtech website, I'm not sure if everything is set up correctly.

At least the test print was fine...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I don't think the print didn't stick to bed. But more likely you have an space on the assembly and hot filament leaker due preassure. Iwould get a hair dryer and remove the pla with small pliers, like very carefully to avoid damaging anything that could be saved. If the heater still works, set it at 80/90C to remove the rest of the stuff.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

HOLY CRAP :O That's soooo creepy!

But yes, looks like a clogged nozzle (or maybe a too fast extrusion for a too low temperature) and a little space on the upper thread (on the upside of the heaterblock). Damn - at least you your filament don't slip XD

Edited by Guest
  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Oh wow, I think your printer came down it the same sinus infection i had :)

What were your print settings? How was were you going?

I live near Stephen King...I should show this to his staff :p

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

To me it looks like your print got loose, got attached to the hot end and got dragged along with the printhead.

Bed adhesion is a sum of multiple things. You need a slow first layer, bed temperature, potentially an additional adhesive but most importantly; proper bed leveling. If your bed is too low it will fail no matter what.

If a feeder is too powerful, wouldn't it rather over extrude, push melted filament upwards (out of the PEEK) or start grinding? If there is a leak, there is a leak and it would show but I don't think the feeder creates a leak. Do you?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The way it looks, seems like filament was extruded and leaked between the barrel and peek or nozzle/barrel. It looks tentacles that grow and grow from there.

I don't see the ther eay for filament reach that up unless there's a z move while heat at low speed going deeper underground (jamiroquai music moment here).

Anyway. If a feeder it's that strong. And something happens, what force can make the feeder skip?

With the dual grip clearly bondtech doesn't grind the filament if can push until cthulhu arriseeesss!!!

Fear too much force. I preffer my motor that skips just when the coupler it's dead :D

Edited by Guest

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Ok, here are som clarifications:

- I was able to remove most of the PLA, I just heated up the hot end, further used a hot air blower. The PLA broke into parts and I was able to remove it quite easily.

-The printer settings were: First layer thickness 0.15mm, first layer print speed 20 mm/s, temperature 215°C, heated bed 65°C, bed levelling was fine.

For the E-Step setting I put 492.5 which is a value I found in the bondtech forum. If it's wrong, I should charge bondtech since they don't think it's necessary to include a manual (for the QR 3.0 I could not find any in the net at all).

Edited by Guest

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Now that it's all clean. If you are sure the coupler isn't damaged, and the assembly it's perfect (not just ok) try to print something. That esteps it's what they say in their website so sounds ok, but that hasn't (imo) anything to do with filamet leaking like a monster.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Dear @skewcrap, in the box with the extruder were a note with a link to where to download the manual. Here is the link for the Installation guide for the Bondtech Extruder: http://www.bondtech.se/download/766/

You always have the option to decrease the current setting for the extruder so it will skip if there is a extrusion problem, for the Ultimaker 2 it can be done using G-code M907 E1200 , the value 1200 stands for milliampere and 1200 is the recomended max amp for the motor, you can decrease it to any lower value, but it also decreases the available torque and limits the ability to push plastic fast. For Ultimaker Original you will need to adjust the trimpot on the stepper driver.

If you need any help you are more than welcome to contact me at martin@bondtech.se !

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I really don't think it's the extruder fault but a bad coupler/assembly. But also its a good think to beware that even if it's extruding, "too much love can kill you" where love in this case it's force.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

@ bondtech

Thanks for your reply. The manual is for the QR 1.5, fine if it is also valid for the 3.0, but it's not indicated. If something like my modern art happens again, i will consider limiting the power.

I don't want to blame the bondtech for beeing to strong ;-) I'm running another print right now, and it seems pretty ok so far...

Another issue I have to solve is that filament change is not quite comfortable at the moment. It seems that the bolden tube does not fit perfectly into the bondtech. A big effort was needed to insert it somehow. When I want to insert the filament from the bottom, I can't put it through. For me it seems as the filament is blocked by the edge of the bolden tube, which might be caused, since the bolden tube is not inserted enough deeply into the bondtech. Could that be the case?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

@skewcrap the 1.5 stands for the version of the manual, not the extruder.

The Bondtech uses metric push-fits for 6 mm bowden tube, the default bowden on the ultimaker is in Imperial size (6.4 mm). It is a tight fit but it is doable, for best performance i would recommend that you replace it with a 6 mm PTFE tube, the PTFE makes difference when printning with flexible filaments with it´s lower fricton. For hard filaments it is more or less not difference. You can also put a small chamfer on the inside of the bowden to help with filament insertion.

/Martin

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

If you change the bowden to 6mm you will need a taller clip (the blue thingy that blocks the bowden on the umo) https://www.youmagine.com/designs/ultimaker-bowden-clip-thicker-version

OMG that's by anders olsson LOL first time I check who did it XD!

I use that and I sand the base a bit so it's just okydoky. Otherwise 6mm ptfe will popout on standard umo/umo+

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

Announcements

  • Our picks

    • Architect Design Contest | Vehicles.
      We're open for entries! - Design and submit your 3D designs of architectural entourage - vehicles - for a chance to win a large filament pack. Presenting an idea, an architectural design or something as big as an urban project isn't easy. A scaled model can really help to get your idea across.
        • Like
      • 24 replies
    • What The DfAM?
      I'm Steve Cox, an experienced engineer familiar with 3D printing. I wanted to share some DfAM guidelines with this community to help and make stronger parts.
      I'm also an Autodesk Certified Instructor for Fusion 360, so many of the images in ...
        • Thanks
        • Like
      • 23 replies
×

Important Information

Welcome to the Ultimaker Community of 3D printing experts. Visit the following links to read more about our Terms of Use or our Privacy Policy. Thank you!