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Sorry if this question has been asked already, but is the Olson block an ideal upgrade for UM2GO if only using PLA? Seeing that the UM2+ has this as standard, there seems to be some merit to it but since they haven't released anything for UM2GO i'm cautious to know if there are reasons i don't see. Further, will upgrading the Olson block alone be enough or will feeder also need to be upgraded? Any other concerns? Power?

Thanks for any help.

E

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The Olsson block is compatible with the Go of course.

The UM2+ feeder is not suited for the go i think mainly because it's much bigger than the standard one (and it's also mirrored).

Olsson Block with new heater cartridge 35w and you'll have a great upgrade for the go

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Is the 35w heater cartridge part of the Olson Block package?

 

The Olsson block is compatible with the Go of course.

The UM2+ feeder is not suited for the go i think mainly because it's much bigger than the standard one (and it's also mirrored).

Olsson Block with new heater cartridge 35w and you'll have a great upgrade for the go

 

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No, it is not.

And if you upgrade to a 35W heater it is probably a good idea to re-tune the PID settings. I'm a bit too lazy to google for a link right now but there should be a thread or two here on the forums that explain how to do that.

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I have 39W heater on my um2go and the olsson block (and also a heated bed kit) and it works great. I didn't mess with the PID settings for the next 30 or so prints and it was fine but eventually I just lowered them a bit and now the temp doesn't oscillate so much (it wasn't really a problem but it bothered me sometimes that the temp kept oscillating forever by 5C).

The whole point of the olsson block is to be able to swap nozzles. If you plan to always print with .4mm nozzle then there isn't a strong reason to get the olsson block. Although it does help you diagnose underextrusion I suppose.

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Most people won't need the 35W heater. I printed my larger quadcopter parts with the 25W heater and I printed them with .8mm nozzle and .3mm layers and 50mm/sec. When you multiply those 3 numbers together you get 12 cubic mm per second which is a little beyond what a .4mm nozzle can print at (printing more plastic per second). The 25W heater kept up just fine. But if you want to print really big stuff, really fast, you will need 35W. For example .4mm thick layers (do you really want to print that thick? That's very visible in the final print! not pretty but quite functional) and .8mm nozzle and at 60mm/sec - at this point (19 cubic mm/sec) you might need 35W heater.

I don't think you would ever need the 35W heater for .6mm and smaller nozzles.

When starting a print, having the nozzle up to temperature almost twice as fast is nice but really not a big deal.

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