to add, try printing slower or hotter.
and with 0.15 layers and 0.6 top/bottom, you only lay 4 top layers, that's not enough imho. try at least 6 layers, so in this case 6*0.15 = 0.9
With the correct temp and speed you can print with 100% fan but it reduces the parts strength. It's also not required to print with fans on high as you can still get good results with them on low.
Edited by Guest...deleted
Edited by Guest- 3 months later...
I was really curious how he made out on this, my fan "on' during nGen prints have been stringy.
Would you use those same fast travel speeds for a UMO?
I have never used an UM0 before but I'm sure I have read that the travel speeds can't go as high. UM0 also has a longer heat zone so you may need to tweek the temp or something to battle the Stringing.
I'll cut the fan way back (or off) on some robot test prints and see how that goes!
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Labern 775
Whoa that looks bad.
Yes you can greatly improve on it. It can get a better appearance then PLA.
Firstly change all the speeds so the are the same. For the best quality, the amount of flow through the nozzle needs to be constant as your set temp is constant. Changing speeds means that the slower speeds have less flow and can over heat, while the faster speed have over twice the flow and can be to cold. So you have to then experiment to find the correct temp for you desired speed.
You can however have a fast travel speed. On my UM2 I have it set to 250mm/s and my UM2go is set to 300mm/s
30% infill is quite high, I normally use between 10 and 20 depending on the model.
For nGen I normally have 30% fan.
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lucagiorcelli 0
Just to share a piece of knowledge: passing from 0% to 100% fan, print seems to gain more detail (but poor melting between strings). Se photo in progress below:
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