Jump to content
UltiMaker Community of 3D Printing Experts

Warping in Simplify3d but not Cura


Recommended Posts

Posted · Warping in Simplify3d but not Cura

Just picked up a new Ultimaker 2 a few weeks ago and been very happy with it. Cura is easy to use and I have been successful with all my print jobs.

After watching a bunch of you tube videos and reading articles I decided to purchase Simplify 3D. Since purchasing S3D, I have printed a few things and except for one job that I used a raft (because it was small) everything else has had at least one edge with some warping on it. Even one job I tried a brim and noticed warping the part inside the brim but the brim was fine. The filaments I am using are Colorfabb PLA/PHA and Ultimaker PLA and both are running a temp of 200 or 210 and bed temp of 60. I have created a test profile in S3D and set it to mimic the settings in Cura and changing the fan settings to turn on only after layer 6 to maximize adhesion but still getting warping.

The thing I can't figure out is if I print the same parts in Cura, I don't have the warping issue. I am using nothing but the heatbed glass for adhesive in both programs.

So far all the print jobs have been basically for function so the warping doesn't hurt the part but it just annoying than anything.

Is there any settings I should change that will stop this in S3D? I admit I am new to 3D printing and issues like this are all part of the learning curve.

Any advise is helpful. Thanks.

  • Link to post
    Share on other sites

    Posted · Warping in Simplify3d but not Cura

    I'm not sure why S3d would be different but I recommend you add a little glue. Use the gluestick that came with the printer and add some water and spread with a tissue.

    lifting corners, curling corners, part sticking to glass

    1) Make sure the glass is clean if you haven't cleaned it for a few weeks. You want a very thin coat of PVA glue which is found in hairspray, glue stick, wood glue. If you use glue stick or wood glue you need to dilute it with water - about 5 to 10 parts water to 1 part glue. So for example if you use glue stick, apply only to the outer edge of your model outline then add a tablespoon of water and spread with a tissue such that you thin it so much you can't see it anymore. wood glue is better. hairspray doesn't need to be diluted. When it dries it should be invisible. This glue works well for most plastics.

    2) Heat the bed. This helps the plastic fill in completely (no air pockets) so you have better contact with the glass. For PLA any temp above 40C is safe. I often print at 60C bed.

    3) heat the bed (didn't I already say that?). Keeping the bottom layers above the glass temp of the material makes it so the bottom layers can flex a bit (very very tiny amount) and relieve the tension/stress. For PLA 60C is better than 50C. 70C is even better but then you get other "warping" like issues at the corners where they move inward but if you are desperate it's worth it. For ABS you want 110C (100C is good enough).

    4) rounded corners - having square corners puts all the lifting force on a tiny spot. Rounding the corner spreads the force out more. This is optional if you use brim.

    5) Brim - this is the most important of all. Turn on the brim feature in cura and do 10 passes of brim. This is awesome.

    6) Squish - make sure the bottom layer is squishing onto the glass with no gaps in the brim. The first trace going down should be flat like a pancake, not rounded like string. don't run the leveling procedure if it is off, just turn the 3 screws the same amount while it is printing the skirt or brim. Counter clockwise from below gets the bed closer to the nozzle. Don't panic, take a breath, think about which way to move the glass, think about how the screw works, then twist. This may take 30 seconds but it's worth it to not rush it. You can always restart the print.

    If you do all this you will then ask me "how the hell do I get my part off the glass?". Well first let it cool completely. Or even put it in the freezer. Then use a sharp putty knife under a corner and it should pop off.

  • Link to post
    Share on other sites

    Posted · Warping in Simplify3d but not Cura

    Try to increas first layer extrusion and height from 100% to 140 for example. That will make that if you print at 0.2 the first layer will be almost 0.3 (0.28 or so). Then you need to adjust print speed since the brim/skirt will use normal print speed and then will cut down to the first layer underspeed %.

    Basically it's different than cura. Post your print settings taps from s3d and cura and we can try to see what's really different.

  • Link to post
    Share on other sites

    Posted (edited) · Warping in Simplify3d but not Cura

    I am using Simplify 3D also since 1 or 2 weeks now, and I experienced the same problems. With cura (used almost 1.5 years), warping only occured when my platform was not clean enough or wrong fan speed settings for the material (especially with Colorfabb XT or ABS).

    This week(s) i will do some tests, because i think the problem is something with fan speed or maybe other things related to temperature/cooling. I will keep you in touch if I find the problem.


    I also noticed that simplify uses completly different settings for the first layer. The height of the first layer is smaller, and the infill speed is lower. Maybe this can cause the problem too (especially the first layer height).

    Edited by Guest
  • Link to post
    Share on other sites

    Posted · Warping in Simplify3d but not Cura

    As mentioned in #6 above, squishing the filament well into the glass is absolutely critical if you want the part to stick well. So to achieve this you want to level lower than the leveling procedure suggests. If you level say .05mm lower than nominal and you print a .3mm bottom layer than you are pushing .3mm of filament into .25mm space. If you are printing a .2mm bottom layer then you are printing .2mm into a .15mm space. I would think S3D would therefore be squishing *more* and not less.

    However if you level .05mm *higher* than nominal then a thicker bottom layer will conversely reduce the problem somewhat.

  • Link to post
    Share on other sites

    Create an account or sign in to comment

    You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

    Create an account

    Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

    Register a new account

    Sign in

    Already have an account? Sign in here.

    Sign In Now
    • Our picks

      • UltiMaker Cura 5.3 stable released
        In this stable release, Cura 5.3 achieves yet another huge leap forward in 3D printing thanks to material interlocking! As well as introducing an expanded recommended print settings menu and lots of print quality improvements. Not to mention, a whole bunch of new printer profiles for non-UltiMaker printers!
          • Thanks
          • Like
        • 30 replies
      • Here it is. The new UltiMaker S7
        The UltiMaker S7 is built on the success of the UltiMaker S5 and its design decisions were heavily based on feedback from customers.
        So what’s new?
        The obvious change is the S7’s height. It now includes an integrated Air Manager. This filters the exhaust air of every print and also improves build temperature stability. To further enclose the build chamber the S7 only has one magnetically latched door.
        The build stack has also been completely redesigned. A PEI-coated flexible steel build plate makes a big difference to productivity. Not only do you not need tools to pop a printed part off. But we also don’t recommend using or adhesion structures for UltiMaker materials (except PC, because...it’s PC). Along with that, 4 pins and 25 magnets make it easy to replace the flex plate perfectly – even with one hand.
        The re-engineered print head has an inductive sensor which reduces noise when probing the build plate. This effectively makes it much harder to not achieve a perfect first layer, improving overall print success. We also reversed the front fan direction (fewer plastic hairs, less maintenance), made the print core door magnets stronger, and add a sensor that helps avoid flooding.

        The UltiMaker S7 also includes quality of life improvements:
        Reliable bed tilt compensation (no more thumbscrews) 2.4 and 5 GHz Wi-Fi A 1080p camera (mounted higher for a better view) Compatibility with 280+ Marketplace materials Compatibility with S5 project files (no reslicing needed) And a whole lot more  
        Curious to see the S7 in action?
        We’re hosting a free tech demo on February 7.
        It will be live and you can ask any questions to our CTO, Miguel Calvo.
        Register here for the Webinar
          • Like
        • 18 replies
      • UltiMaker Cura Alpha 🎄 Tree Support Spotlight 🎄
        Are you a fan of tree support, but dislike the removal process and the amount of filament it uses? Then we would like to invite you to try this special release of UltiMaker Cura. Brought to you by our special community contributor @thomasrahm
        We generated a special version of Cura 5.2 called 5.3.0 Alpha + Xmas. The only changes we introduced compared to UltiMaker Cura 5.2.1 are those which are needed for the new supports. So keep in mind, this is not a sneak peek for Cura 5.3 (there are some really cool new features coming up) but a spotlight release highlighting this new version of tree supports.  
          • Like
        • 22 replies
    • Create New...