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orare76

First 2+ hour print job

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Hello,

I am seeking any advice as our school has just set up a pair of Ultimaker 2+ printers. Just would like someone to have a look at the first print job made using a .stl file from a source other than the SD card.

I noticed that the back of the print suffered from inconsistent laying down of the plastic (maybe to much glue on the bed?) and not everything on the front side that needed fill was filled. In some places I can see plastic that streaks across gaps when the print head moved to another part of the project. Is this because the default speed is to fast? So far I'm pretty impressed

I am using Colorfabb PLA warm red and the default settings of the Ultimaker 2+. I understand that each machine does need further tweaks after calibration however I am unsure where to start to adjust my settings. Any advice based on the pictures provided would be great.

5a331d8f83615_20160526_1643381.thumb.jpg.24d0d1987d459ab595bd077b690c1eab.jpg

5a331d92ccd4e_20160526_1643481.thumb.jpg.3bd777b75e9e84189481ab5fa93906ed.jpg

5a331d8f83615_20160526_1643381.thumb.jpg.24d0d1987d459ab595bd077b690c1eab.jpg

5a331d92ccd4e_20160526_1643481.thumb.jpg.3bd777b75e9e84189481ab5fa93906ed.jpg

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I muat say that one of my umo+ glasses where so bad that only with hairspray I was able to print. I changed the glass 2 months ago and now I need to avoid any hairspray and can print perfectly. So, if it's a bed glass from a school it might be damaged over use. The best way to dmg it it's by pluging the pla when the glass is hot still.

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I thought I did a decent job with levelling the bed. I decided today to be more picky about calibration of the bed on both units. Today's small tests went well.

As for the glue, if I am using the Ultimaker branded PLA or colorfabb what should my bed temp be to allow for it to stick easy, not warp and easier removal when it is done? What tool do you use/recommend to remove your projects from the bed? I am thinking some sort of thin metal spatula or is there something else to use. Just worried about warping/damage when removing large based projects or small projects that may not have much fill <20%.

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G'day mate,

Again - for the PLA the glass bed should be 60C and clean.

My glass is 2+ years old, damaged from one side (by Colorfabb XT), but this mantra always worked for me.

No tool is needed unless you want to leave scratches on/in the glass surface. Once it cools down, prints come off by themselves.

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+1 on what everyone above is saying.

60C for Ultimaker/Colorfabb PLA. No glue needed. and wait WAIT WAIT for the bed to cool down and the part will either already be detached or come over very easily with no tool required.

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60C. Wait for it to cool. Once the glass is at room temp it should take very little force (if any) to remove the part. What they said above.

I use glue always. If I don't occasionally a print doesn't stick and the print is ruined. That hasn't happened in over a year I think. But thin out your glue - use a wet tissue to spread the glue around much thinner so the bottom doesn't have that bump.

The top of your part looks pretty good. It's hard to get rid of travel marks. If it's super important you can uncheck "combing" under retraction settings and it will get rid of most travel marks on the top and bottom layers. But it can add stringing (little strings in the air that breach sections of the part) depending on the part shape (won't hurt the part in photograph above).

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