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printedman

Print head not touching bed after upgrade UM2 to UM2+

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Well there are only 3 possibilities that I can think of:

1) When you levelled somehow it didn't save the new z home position.

2) Something is wrong with your gcode (this happens to me all the time - more later)

3) z endstop problems or other hardware issues

#3 - do a quick check to make sure the Z switch is clear and nothing hits it. Look under the bed and you see a long screw sticking down. When the bed goes all the way down it goes into a square hole - see it? Make sure everything is solid and no junk in the hole.

#1 - did you try this a second time to be sure?

#2 - this seems most likely. Look at your part in cura layer view (always do this before printing something new). Move the slider up and down. I'm guessing nothing is printing on the bottom layer and it skips right to 1mm off the bed for the first layer.

If none of these helps I would get pronterface and command the bed to move to position z=0 to see what's going on.

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Well there are only 3 possibilities that I can think of:

1) When you levelled somehow it didn't save the new z home position.

I did level a few time.

Reinstall Cura 15.04.5 and update the firmware on UM2+

Level plate after reinstall.

2) Something is wrong with your gcode (this happens to me all the time - more later)

I test a few file, check layer view and slice for Ultimaker 2+ with the reinstall Cura 15.04.5

(3) z endstop problems or other hardware issues

Image show the Z switch position and reading after I did a home from Pronterface.

Video showing the last testing.

Please advice. Thanks

Zstop.thumb.jpg.43b72d9dbd1a3c786625b1792844ea97.jpg

Z-position.thumb.jpg.18834371839aaada618205b6c674bfa0.jpg

 

Zstop.thumb.jpg.43b72d9dbd1a3c786625b1792844ea97.jpg

Z-position.thumb.jpg.18834371839aaada618205b6c674bfa0.jpg

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That looks like the 3 wheels under the bed need some some counterclockwise/clockwise (I always forget the direction to pull up or down XD) turns so the bed it's closer to the nozzle. Print a flat area, also, pick up the drill with a tweezers so it isn't just dragged away and you can keep an eye to what sticks or doesn't.

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That was done at the levelling stage, which I did before the print. If you are referring to the gap at the start of printing. I do not understand why its that big gap too.

 

That looks like the 3 wheels under the bed need some some counterclockwise/clockwise (I always forget the direction to pull up or down XD) turns so the bed it's closer to the nozzle. Print a flat area, also, pick up the drill with a tweezers so it isn't just dragged away and you can keep an eye to what sticks or doesn't.

 

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Yea, leveling guide and all that, it doesn't matter. It's a physical problem. Ofc there must be something different since um2 calculates a 0.1mm gap (the same as the calibration card). So, just turn the wheels until the filament sticks to the bed. Turn the 3 onthefly and try to turn them the same amount. I bet it's just 1/3 turn on each one.

Or do the oposite, use the calibration assistant but don't use the card, just make it so the nozzle almost touch the bed.

The point it's, you need the bed closer to the nozzle, by firmware recalibration or physically turning the wheels.

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It work, I level it till the nozzle is touching on the bed. When I pull out the card I can hear the nozzle hit the bed. But the print is still not sticking well on the bed. I upload a video here. Thanks

 

 

Yea, leveling guide and all that, it doesn't matter. It's a pay

sical problem. Ofc there must be something different since um2 calculates a 0.1mm gap (the same as the calibration card). So, just turn the wheels until the filament sticks to the bed. Turn the 3 onthefly and try to turn them the same amount. I bet it's just 1/3 turn on each one.

Or do the oposite, use the calibration assistant but don't use the card, just make it so the nozzle almost touch the bed.

The point it's, you need the bed closer to the nozzle, by firmware recalibration or physically turning the wheels.

 

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I'm guessing you want to get EVEN CLOSER between the nozzle in the bed. Anyway here is my standard explanation of how to get prints to stick:

1) Make sure the glass is clean if you haven't cleaned it for a few weeks. You want a very thin coat of PVA glue which is found in hairspray, glue stick, wood glue. If you use glue stick or wood glue you need to dilute it with water - about 5 to 10 parts water to 1 part glue. So for example if you use glue stick, apply only to the outer edge of your model outline then add a tablespoon of water and spread with a tissue such that you thin it so much you can't see it anymore. wood glue is better. hairspray doesn't need to be diluted. When it dries it should be invisible. This glue works well for most plastics.

2) Heat the bed. This helps the plastic fill in completely (no air pockets) so you have better contact with the glass. For PLA any temp above 40C is safe. I often print at 60C bed.

3) heat the bed (didn't I already say that?). Keeping the bottom layers above the glass temp of the material makes it so the bottom layers can flex a bit (very very tiny amount) and relieve the tension/stress. For PLA 60C is better than 50C. 70C is even better but then you get other "warping" like issues at the corners where they move inward but if you are desperate it's worth it. For ABS you want 110C (100C is good enough).

4) rounded corners - having square corners puts all the lifting force on a tiny spot. Rounding the corner spreads the force out more. This is optional if you use brim.

5) Brim - this is the most important of all. Turn on the brim feature in cura and do 10 passes of brim. This is awesome.

6) Squish - make sure the bottom layer is squishing onto the glass with no gaps in the brim. The first trace going down should be flat like a pancake, not rounded like string. don't run the leveling procedure if it is off, just turn the 3 screws the same amount while it is printing the skirt or brim. Counter clockwise from below gets the bed closer to the nozzle. Don't panic, take a breath, think about which way to move the glass, think about how the screw works, then twist. This may take 30 seconds but it's worth it to not rush it. You can always restart the print.

If you do all this you will then ask me "how the hell do I get my part off the glass?". Well first let it cool completely. Or even put it in the freezer. Then use a sharp putty knife under a corner and it should pop off.

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Ultimaker continuous to support ABS of course.  Did you use Ultimaker ABS or from a different brand? As an alternative to a higher temperature, have you ever tried an ABS slurry or a different type of adhesive?

 

Ultimaker ABS white. I have been using hairspray all along with Ultimaker 2 . I try glue today but it did not work. I don't like ABS slurry as the smell is too strong for me and messy. I do not understand why the limit of 100C for the new firmware. It work so well at 105-110C. If Ultimaker expect user to hunt around for firmware to work with the machine. How can Ultimaker say its machine is ready for use out of the box. Now after upgrading with the kits to Ultimaker 2+, I have a machine hanging and work stop. Please assist. Thank you.

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@printedman - I confirmed that the tinker marlin lets you go up well above 100C. 115C at least. It's much better than regular Marlin. It has all the same look and feel and features but shows you more of what is happening during a print and has lots of great new features like continuing a failed print. Hundreds of people use it. So no reason to wait:

https://github.com/TinkerGnome/Ultimaker2Marlin/releases

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@printedman - I confirmed that the tinker marlin lets you go up well above 100C.  115C at least.  It's much better than regular Marlin.  It has all the same look and feel and features but shows you more of what is happening during a print and has lots of great new features like continuing a failed print.  Hundreds of people use it.  So no reason to wait:

https://github.com/TinkerGnome/Ultimaker2Marlin/releases

 

Yes, thank you gr5. you been great help. I am using it now till the regular Marlin rectify on this issue update is out. I did find some inconsistent on the display of the selection on material. But its still works well, And can set the temperature to higher then 100C. But will still hope the regular Marlin for Ultimaker on this issue will be rectify soon and more user like me can buy and use Ultimaker out of the box. Thanks again

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