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mkoenig

Lifting off the print bed !!! Help please.

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Hi mkoening,

I've also started my printing lately, and got some surprises when starting to print.

First I used heat bed at temperature set to 60 deg. Celsius. (Yes, I'm using PLA as well.)

I started by washing the bed, dried it and go, but as the model grow up it suddenly snapped off the bed and a lot of filament mess... etc. etc.  :)

Well, I learned this the bed have to be "super" clean, no remains of fingerprints etc.

After this learning, the model never come loose like that again.

Then I learned a new lesson; my printing was never that good, especially the part of the model close to the heat bed.

So I learned this here in this forum (thanks to Nicolinux:));

I've stopped using the heat bed when printing PLA, just using glue stick!

It stick very well to the bed glass plate and do not go loose, -but can be really hard to get off the bed.

I do not know the "Elmer's purple glue", but the glue I'm using is the glue meant for using gluing photo into the "photo album". This is a glue stick and loose up easily in water, kind of like soap.

Put a tiny layer where the print will sit, make sure to cover this place.

I started printing at 210 deg. C as advised, but I'm now printing at about 192 deg C.

You may find the correct temperature for your brand of PLA, I'm using Verbatim PLA.

Edit: Forgot one important issue; level you heat bed very accurately, use a sheet of 80 g print paper (approx 0.15 mm thick).

OK., Good Luck.

Thanks.

Torgeir.

Edited by Guest

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Hello,

First: check if your print bed is very close to the print head, when printing the first layer, so that the first layer is squeezed well into the bed. Otherwise, no bonding method will work.

Then I recommend that you start printing with the default values for PLA: 210°C nozzle temp, 50mm/s, 60°C bed temp. These are a good all-round average. And fine-tune later on.

For good bonding, I always wipe the glass plate with very salt water prior to printing:

- First clean it with pure tap water only (no soap, because that reduces bonding).

- Then moisten a tissue with very salt water, and wipe the glass plate.

- Gently keep wiping while the water evaporates, leaving a very thin, even mist of salt stuck to the plate, almost invisible.

This always works very well for me, since more than a year and 1000+ objects: I have no corners lifting, even not for very difficult objects (long, 100% filled, big chamfers).

See the full manual with tips at:

https://www.uantwerpen.be/nl/personeel/geert-keteleer/manuals/

The advantage of the "salt method" is that salt water is very easy to apply, is cheap, and there is more than enough available in the world... :)

Others have good success with applying wood glue dilluted with water (10% glue), and wiping that on the glass plate with a brush, and let it dry into a very thin almost invisible layer. And others prefer a spray can such as 3DLAC. But I have never used that.

Geert

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I have been having some prints lift off and producing the dreaded filament spaghetti too!

I haven't been using the glue stick, just the heated bed and printing directly on the glass at 70C

However, being it is summer and it has been humid this week, I am wondering if those conditions could cause the prints to pop loose?

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