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LePaul

UMO with dual fan shroud prints

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Hi

I have installed the upgraded dual fan shroud that Neotko designed and after refining the firmware some, have done a large test print. I am using 50mm fans.

I suspect that my 50mm fans which are rated for 14.13 CFM are extremely powerful and require me to really tune them down to much lower speeds.  That's where I am trying to fine tune.

I also just replaced the teflon piece

Here's my large print, where I printed at 0.2 layers and 210C    I had the fans running on what I thought would be an equivalent to 100% of the original ones.  (Again, we're experimenting)

I decided to up the temp to 212 a little ways into it since I noticed the infill look hairy.  

As I kept checking in, I noticed the print head temp was moving from 210 to 214 a lot, so I reduced the fan speed a bit ever few minutes to see if it could stay more stable.  

Here's the result...thoughts?  Keep bringing the fan speeds down more?

image.thumb.jpeg.82c9c7bf9278ff9adf9f56f3e7d98218.jpeg

image.thumb.jpeg.82c9c7bf9278ff9adf9f56f3e7d98218.jpeg

Edited by Guest

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I found i was underextruding the first layer starting at 200, but 205 worked good to start

Fans are at 14%...which seems to feel about as forceful as the single fan was way back when

Now to increase the temps manually as we go!

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.1mm layer 25mm/sec fan at 100% at 1mm nozzle temp 195C

Also if after that you still have all that ringing next to those round bumps then lower your acceleration to 2000 mm/sec/sec or instead maybe tighten the belts a bit more. Tightening or loosening the belts will change the harmonic frequency and reduce that ringing. Loosen them too much though and you get play. Lowering acceleration to 2000mm/sec/sec should reduce the jerk which will reduce the ringing also.

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100% fan and the printer will hover like a helicopter :)

The acceleration settings....in Cura or Ulticontroller?

Here's a test print of the Ultimaker Robot (210C, 40 mm/sec, 0.2 layers) Fans at 10%

image1.thumb.jpeg.027c4e3900b3f0e84afcb85873b4bfbb.jpeg

I'll leave the temp alone and try lowering fans to 8% and then at 12%. More prints coming

image1.thumb.jpeg.027c4e3900b3f0e84afcb85873b4bfbb.jpeg

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The guys thought my brass pipe and heater block needed a gap...but in taking the head apart and comparing with a spare hot end kit, those thread into the heater block flush. No gap.

printhead.thumb.jpeg.0b34cb62cc0e7946a748135f4d8013a0.jpeg

I can reduce the acceleration and do a robot at .1mm and 25mm sec. shortly

printhead.thumb.jpeg.0b34cb62cc0e7946a748135f4d8013a0.jpeg

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If it's cold (and assuming you never got a leak inside the peek) when cold (or 90C) you can take out the peek if you unscrew it.

To take out nozzle or barrel you need to loose the nozzle while hot (at least 150C but since you got leaks inside the alublock probably 200C so you don't force much the screws of the alu block.

Edited by Guest

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