Why to change hot end on UMO/UMO+ ?

[Gnevko 5]

Hi,

I have just a small question: I found a lot of posts with information how to change a hot end on UMO/UMO+ to (for example) E3D V6 . But I don't understand what the reason is?  Is it general better as the standard hot end, more quality or something else?

Thank you!

Edited September 23, 2016 by Guest

[tommyph1208 55]

The main argument to go for eg. a E3Dv6 as you mention, which is a all-metal hotend, is the increased operating temperature range which will allow you to print different materials, especially some that require higher temperatures to extrude properly, than what your normal Ultimaker Hotend (and its non-metal components) can handle.

I also find my E3D hotends to (once assembled correctly) be more reliable than my old UMO hotend ever was, less clogging, easier maintenance etc.

Then there is their very large (and still growing) variety of hotend types, nozzle types and sizes, fixtures, wrappings and what-not, that make their products super slick and versatile.

I now have several different hotends from E3D (a normal v6 with a large variety of nozzles from 0.25 to 0.8 mm., a vulcano hotend with a variety of nozzles from 0.8 to 1.2 mm., and a v5 that I keep as spare), swapping between them and their nozzles is quick and painless, and lets you do more things with your printer.

That said, It did take a bad reocurring clog in my original hotend for me to do the switch to E3D, but I have not looked back since.

Edited September 15, 2016 by Guest

[Gnevko 5]

Do you use 1.75 or 3 mm version? with Bowden?

[tommyph1208 55]

Do you use 1.75 or 3 mm version? with Bowden?

 

I use 3 mm. (technically, its 2.85), as it is the default ultimaker size, so I didn't have to fiddle with a new 1.75mm., feeder and what else might be required to switch filament thickness.

I also use bowden yes... Again, it is simpler than switching to a direct feed (and the UM machines, really are made for light non-bulky printheads... its some of what it does best)

[Gnevko 5]

aaaand do you have no problem with PLA? (I read in several topics on this forum that E3Dv6 is not really good choose for PLA)

Edited September 24, 2016 by Guest

[tommyph1208 55]

aaaand do you have no problem with PLA? (I read in several topics on this forum that E3Dv6 is not really good choose for PLA)

 

Ah yes... The good old claim that E3D hotends cant print PLA... Heard that plenty too

I don't know what to tell you... I printed tons of PLA through my E3Ds and never had problems with that... The best I can tell, from what I have read from people who claim to have trouble, is that it comes down to assembly errors.

E3D have some pretty specific but very clear (and not that complex) instructions on how to assemble their hotends, and these have to be followed, to the letter... after that, its smooth sailing.

Most commonly, I think people miss/skip/fail the step of heating up the newly assembled hotend to ~270 degrees and tightening the nozzle while hot to form a good seal against the heatbreak.

That... And improper cooling of the heatsink.

Edited September 25, 2016 by Guest

[meduza 189]

Most commonly, I think people miss/skip/fail the step of heating up the newly assembled hotend to ~270 degrees and tightening the nozzle while hot to form a good seal against the heatbreak.

Well, that part, and the fact that you have to do it with two tools is honestly a design flaw... it makes it way harder to swap nozzles than it have to be (look at the Olsson block, heat it to a bit over 100c, unscrew the nozzle and screw the new one in with ~0.5Nm torque, and you will be fine, with one single tool)

Edited September 26, 2016 by Guest

[Gnevko 5]

One single tool or not ... but now I need change PTFE coupler every 100-200 print hours... it's no go for me.

Edited September 26, 2016 by Guest

[neotko 1,410]

Well for umo, 3dsolex sells a coupler made in TFM (they called TFT) and if works like the couplers on um2+ then it should last 500-2000h

I changed all my umo+ printers to um2+ hotend so I never tested that.

[meduza 189]

You really have to be abusing that poor PTFE coupler, i have been nowere close 100h for replacement when running UMO, and with my new UM2+ i have over 800 hours on the TFM coupler with barely visible signs of wear when looking at the TFM.

Also, i do think the UMO hotend is flawed for the same reason... it is just that the E3D V6 has had a lot more iterations and should have the nozzle change fixed by now...

[Gnevko 5]

At first, thank you alot for your opinions and answers!

Is there may be other hot ends on the market or E3Dv6 is only one approved alternative?

Edited September 26, 2016 by Guest

[LePaul 297]

Well @neotko put an Ultimaker 2 print head on his UMO+ and I think he detailed that process elsewhere in the forum.

[Gnevko 5]

Yes, I read it but if I understood correctly, the problem with the changing of a coupler is still here. As soon I start to print with PC or ASA (required 270) the lifespan of this part will dramatically shorten ... Other point is the price. The Upgrade KIT costs something about 500Euro (!). Full assemled E3Dv6  - 67 Euro.

Edited September 26, 2016 by Guest

[meduza 189]

I have also done exactly that (mounted a UM2 printhead to a UMO), and am happy with it.

But yes, if you are printing at 270 continuously and dont care for PLA, then you should either use a All-metal hotend or a UM2 printhead with the new coupler and a isolator like the I2K from 3DSolex, or a custom coupler like the IPM or the PBI ones.

Edited September 26, 2016 by Guest

[Gnevko 5]

Soo, I have already installed E3D and actually I'm satisfied with it. But what I don't understand: why one part of the thing is overheated?

Material: ABS

Speed: 60 mm/s

Nozzle: 240C

Bett: 100C

All other sides of it seem to be ok.... hm ...

Edited October 14, 2016 by Guest

[tommyph1208 55]

Could it be that the "handle part" (melted part) is slow to print so the head spends a lot of time over that position and thus melts it?

You do seem to have a lot of extra heat cartridge sticking out...

What happens if you rotate the model 180 degrees around the z axis and print again with same settings?

[Gnevko 5]

Could it be that the "handle part" (melted part) is slow to print so the head spends a lot of time over that position and thus melts it?

 

I don't think so because slicer (in this case - S3D) calculates time for whole layer and not for each perimeter. And the layers are big enough.

 

You do seem to have a lot of extra heat cartridge sticking out...

 

It's original UMO+  heat cartridge. From other side of block it stick out too. Maybe it's a good idea to take also original UMO+ heat block? but I'm not sure.

 

What happens if you rotate the model 180 degrees around the z axis and print again with same settings?

 

I will try.

Edited October 17, 2016 by Guest