U3 Cores

[esteban-pacheco 33]

hello Forum.

in the past (U2), it was a good idea to have a nozzle set for each the of material (PLA, ABS, and so on), because to the different material characteristics... now in the U3, we need to do the same? does anybody knows if printing normal PLA and Bronzefill with the same core will lead to problems, (i.e. clogs)

best.

[Dim3nsioneer 557]

Printing abrasive filaments such as Bronzefil will lead to a quick degradation of the nozzle. As on the UM2+. However, you will have to replace the whole core, not just the nozzle.

Switching between very different materials like PLA, ABS, Nylon and CPE is no problem for the very same AA core.

[gr5 2,002]

I don't recommend printing anything abrasive using um3 until cheaper 3rd party cores come out or swappable nozzle cores or ruby nozzled cores. A few of those options should happen in the next few months I'm sure.

[Dim3nsioneer 557]

Well you can print abrasive materials, you just have to pay the price (of a new core). But the machine is capable of.

Edited December 23, 2016 by Guest

[Wisar 86]

How do we know if a filament is abrasive? With some it is obvious, like carbon fibre based filaments. Bronze filled against a bronze nozzle makes sense as being abrasive. I assume copperfill would be as well? What about various woodfills? I would think they would be ok though I wonder about the risk of clogging a 100 quid print core when I have a UM2+ sitting next to it!

It would be nice if the sellers would label filaments as abrasive but if they are doing so I think I am missing it?

Thanks for any feedback.

[meduza 191]

I would say that any filler in a filament are acting as a abrasive on the nozzle, to different degrees tough, where the wood filled ones are on the low end, then the soft  metals like bronze, brass and copper, above that you find harder metals like steel, and glow-in-the-dark and carbon filled filaments make up the high end.

I would prefer my UM2+ for printing wood filled filament, since i have had a lot of troubles with jams in 0.4mm nozzles, and amazing success with 0.6mm nozzle and wood filled filaments :-)

Edited December 22, 2016 by Guest

[Wisar 86]

I would prefer my UM2+ for printing wood filled filament, since i have had a lot of troubles with jams in 0.4mm nozzles, and amazing success with 0.6mm nozzle and wood filled filaments :-)

Probably a good idea to keep the filled filaments on the left side (UM2+) and leave the UM3 on the right side to "normal" stuff. I have had pretty good luck with the specialty filaments that I have tried though a lot of care and feeding is required. I have a couple of steel nozzles and the trick is slow, slow, slow. Will have to try the .6mm idea.

Cheers,

Will

[meduza 191]

I totally gave up steel nozzles about a year ago, printing with Anders "The Olsson Ruby" nozzles is "the shit" for carbon and glow filaments, no need to slow down or raise the temperature, and it will not wear out anytime soon :-)

(Full disclosure: i have been testing and helping out with production of these awesome nozzles that is going to be available very soon now)

Edited December 23, 2016 by Guest

[Wisar 86]

I totally gave up steel nozzles about a year ago, printing with Anders "The Olsson Ruby" nozzles is "the shit" for carbon and glow filaments, no need to slow down or raise the temperature, and it will not wear out anytime soon :-)

 

Thanks, I had missed the whole Ruby thing but will check them out. I actually love the look of the carbon prints even more than the functionality...going a little faster would not be bad.