Hi rwig,
Why not use locktite blue, this will allow you to change the knurled wheel if needed and this is the "glue" that's meant to lock a "set screw".
Thanks.
Torgeir.
- 1
Hi rwig,
Why not use locktite blue, this will allow you to change the knurled wheel if needed and this is the "glue" that's meant to lock a "set screw".
Thanks.
Torgeir.
Thanks Torgeir,
(Please excuse my silly questions).
To remove the screw, should I get smaller pliers or vice grip pliers? It only sticks out a bit and my normal-size pliers can't grip it. And then I suppose just apply on the locktite blue and tighten back in?
It would be easier for me to just use the JB Weld epoxy as I already have it and both my reseller and North American Ultimaker support said that should work just fine to secure it. And they said if it doesn't, they can mail me the necessary replacement parts. But is that common someone would need to change their knurled wheel in the future? It feels like a solid part that will withstand years of retractions. Or is there a good chance I would need to change it in the future? If you think so, then maybe I should go buy the threadlock and special pliers or vice grip to remove the screw?
Maybe I am reading this wrong, but it looks to me you are missing an essential tool: a metric hex screwdriver.
Without that you have no chance to succeed: you won't be able to tighten enough the set screw.
Hi rwig,
As amedee says, you'll need a hex tool (set) metric and 1.5 mm for this set screw.
Thanks.
Torgeir.
Edited by GuestWhen you get a 1.5mm hex wrench, also get the Loctite threadlocker to apply on the screw threads before inserting it.
If you can find the purple threadlocker (Loctite 222), that would be preferable to the more common blue type (Loctite 242) since the screw is less than 6mm in size. If all you can find is the blue type, it should be OK, but the screw will be harder to remove if you ever need to do that. The JB Weld, on the other hand, may make it impossible to remove the knurled wheel at a later date.
Thank you! I will try this out.
Thank you guys I will try Loctite 222!! The same thing is happening with my knurled wheel. I got Meduza's feeder gears, printed the cores and It's just missing this step. I'm trying with 1.5mm heaxdriver (two of those) including the hexkey that come with my UM2 and the screw is loose. My calipter shows that the size is exactly 1.5mm, it's working for all other screws. I already got a male screw removal kit but the smaller fits 2mm (M3) screws. Tryed vice-grips and it's not moving. Damn!
@rwig Did you tryed those threadlockers: Loctite 222 or Loctite 242?
Let me know if it solves you problem. Cheers!
Well, 242 is the blue one for screws that can be reopened. Some other Locktite product can really fasten to much..
Anyway, good luck.
Thanks.
Torgeir.
Loctite 242 (blue) is for fasteners 1/4" (6mm) diameter and larger.
Loctite 222 (purple) is for up to 1/4" (6mm) diameter.
Using 242 on the typical Ultimaker M3 screws may cause them to be difficult to remove later.
Well, -where I been working (in the aviation) we used 242 on those screws -3 mm (and the equal inch standards sizes) all the time.. I'd never had any problem removing those screws..
But, -if you fill all the coil with this stuff, there might be a problem. - - - So; we do not glue them with Locktite, we just lock them with a small droplet..
The black set screw is a high torque set screw, and the knurled wheel have just a few coils, -so here it is wise to use 242!
Just my two and half pence..
Take care and good luck.
Thanks
Torgeir.
Recommended Posts
rwig 2
Update:
I spoke with my reseller and North American Ultimaker support who said JB weld epoxy should work to hold it in place. I'm going to do that and think it will to, otherwise they said could mail a new piece out.
Link to post
Share on other sites