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peggyb

UMO HeaterBoard broken

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Turned on my UMO with heated bed Upgrade and it smelled strange. Trying to determine where this came from, discovered that there is a part of the HeaterBoard loose... where it says Q2. There is a red light left of it which turned off the moment I touched and shifted the Q2 part.

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Looks like it was never soldered well to start with, there is no stress on the part, it is covered and protected all the time. It came off easily, hanging on 1 or 2 joints...

It smells bad, probably means that it is bad...

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5a33360080df9_2017-04-1513_17_38.thumb.jpg.48215691280c6aa5bcf6dea4e6e4a11e.jpg

5a3336010b458_2017-04-1514_02_25.thumb.jpg.2e03f9068193a14f20be2051ac1a00d7.jpg

Edited by Guest

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Now I haven't looked closely at the schematic for that board, but given it's a transistor and apparently has to do with the heated bed, you might want to check your bed/wiring for shorts. To me, the picture looks like it got hot enough to desolder itself. Should the cause of this happen to be the load on the transistor, then it's just going to happen again.

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I thought so too :p

Anyways, the board looks just a bit discolored but doesn't appear (from the pictures anyway) to have delamination and/or burn damage. If you can solder SMD parts or know someone who can, I'm sure we can find a replacement part for you?

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Neotko is sending me a replacement PCB, but if there is a short somewhere, it might happen again.

I will try to find somebody who can debug this with me, I don't have great electrical skills. Soldering is fine (being a goldsmith).

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Interessting - not funny. I have nearly the same Problem ... excatcly that above shown part seems to be defect. turning on the Printer, the heatbed starts heating - and it smells bad to. i turned off power, when the heatbed temp. runs above 120°C ... and it did it really fast. I found, that the chip was about 138°C ...

Contacting the ultimaker Support the send me to the german Reseller - after discussing a week!!! with them, they decided, that i am right (at first, the wanted to sell an new heatbead) ... a new heaterboard should be about 120.- EUR without Transport ... that heavy.

asking aunt Google, i found someone else with exactly the same problem. they told - that the chip is an TI CSD18501 or CSD18501Q5A ... how can i get the Information, which chip and where to by? or an alternative new heatercontroller

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Neotko is sending me a replacement PCB, but if there is a short somewhere, it might happen again.

I will try to find somebody who can debug this with me, I don't have great electrical skills. Soldering is fine (being a goldsmith).

I don't own a UMO so I have limited insight. Assuming the HBK board @neotko refers to is the one I can find in the BOM here the part you're looking for is an IRF8736PBF - which is readily available at for instance RS components.

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asking aunt Google, i found someone else with exactly the same problem. they told - that the chip is an TI CSD18501 or CSD18501Q5A ... how can i get the Information, which chip and where to by?

That sounds very odd - the CSD18501 as far as I can tell is only available in a Q5A package, and the board footprint is SOIC-8. It won't fit. So unless I'm looking at the wrong schematics or otherwise missing something entirely, that's not the correct part.

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The cause is a good question. If you're lucky it's just a failed transistor, probably failing to turn on entirely and creating a voltage drop across itself, heating up and eventually heating the solder joint to the point of melting. Alternatively, it might be a short in the wiring or in the heated bed somehow. If I was in your shoes, I'd have a close look at the cables and see if the insulation is damaged somewhere. If that wasn't the case, I'd probably just solder in a new transistor and try again (but that's just me).

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I used the printer lately without the heated bed: in the controller set the preheat for the bed to zero (and Cura too). Doing a lot of small things on tape for a demo, so not having to wait for the bed to heat and cool. Noticed the smell and the temp of the bed when turning it on. Sounds dangerous as well, this runaway temp, shouldn't there be some kind of safety?

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cool - with a 100x zoom Magnifying glassi read I*R P441 087Y F8738 - nearly nothing to see on the chip. the last 8 was wrong - thats why i didn't find anythink. ok the qs will not fit (i thought that by myself - im an electrical noob) but - i ordered it in China ... will go back to the 'bay' to be sold. i ordered a package of 10 IRF3836 ... in China - will take some weeks ... i'll be back (THANK YOU !!!)

.... Unfortunately i don't know People to build ...the BOM

im stupid ... first i should think than orderingh in China ...conrad.thumb.png.6b1fd1eaeeafb8e63e333002b6a17f60.png that is the better solution - ist on my daily way to work

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I wouldn't order any sort of IC from some Chinese vendor. It's incredible how even individual components get faked. They're so cheap I don't see what they point is in the first place unless someone is buying bulk (in which case they should know better). I guess somebody must be able to make money that way somehow.

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are these safe to order? (Netherlands)

 

with a 100x zoom Magnifying glassi read I*R P441 087Y F8738

Mine are the same as yours: P411G 087Y F873? Can't read the last number, too dark. There is a production sticker (?) nr. 8276-0356 on the PCB. I have another UMO-HB with the same MOSFET, but sticker nr. 8276-0389.

Edited by Guest

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I can't say I know the supplier, but I figure they look trustworthy.

What's printed on top of your individual circuits is unimportant, and not necessarily the same. There's date codes, production facility codes, lot numbers and such so they may differ. It's the right part you linked to, so go ahead and grab it.

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On closer inspection one of the cables looks suspicious. Starting to think that the problem started over there. Can I use it again? Read in other threads that the wire ends should not be tinned?

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It certainly looks like there's been some heating from the blackened look of the screw head. What's going on there? Is the cable even fully seated in the terminal? There's a lot of copper showing.

If I were you I'd snip off a centimeter of all the cables and reinstall them. I'd also do my best to clean the terminal block to ensure a proper connection. It's true, the cables aren't supposed to be tinned. That's not to say it won't work with tinned ones.

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It certainly looks like there's been some heating from the blackened look of the screw head. What's going on there? Is the cable even fully seated in the terminal? There's a lot of copper showing.

If I were you I'd snip off a centimeter of all the cables and reinstall them. I'd also do my best to clean the terminal block to ensure a proper connection. It's true, the cables aren't supposed to be tinned. That's not to say it won't work with tinned ones.

Would it help to add ferrules to each connection? (Specially the heater?)

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