2 days ago. I got a database problem the first time but after that it...seemed to work.
Other than that, am I using the right procedure to update my firmware?
Where will you let the world know when the builder comes back up?
2 days ago. I got a database problem the first time but after that it...seemed to work.
Other than that, am I using the right procedure to update my firmware?
Where will you let the world know when the builder comes back up?
Most likely the hex-file is not what you want then. Because 2 days ago it was already going down hill fast.
Note sure when/if the builder comes back up. The machine is pretty fucked up, and I have no backup of the builder. First thing will be getting a new hard-disk.
Well then I'm just glad that I didn't brick my printer with whatever it is that I sent to it.
Must...have...heated...bed...
google building marlin and there are at least 2 sites out there with detailed step by step. I followed the steps and got it working pretty fast. Building your own isn't so bad. Read and edit configuration.h as needed for your heated bed. You will probably read 40 parameters but only need to change maybe 6. It took me about an hour the first time ever and most of that was reading configuration.h.
You cannot brick your printer with a firmware update, as the firmware installation bits never get overridden. Worst thing that could happen is that you have to re-install the default firmware. Brick-free (unless you print bricks)
Oooooh ok, I thought it was hopeless for me without the one builder :geek: . And I'm glad that I won't be bricking my printer until I try to print some legos.
That sucks about the hard drive failure ! Glad I got my build done last weekend. Hope you get it up again soon, it was/is a great support (hint, should be an official project) resource.
Any idea what the default heated bed relay operation was ? ie. was it setup for fast switching (requiring an SSR) or slow ? My SSR went up in smoke and I'm having trouble sourcing a replacement right away, think it should be alright with a mechanical/automotive relay ?
Here's a link to the firmware I created w/ Daid's builder for those who need it. All default settings with Ulticontroller and Heated Bed selected.
http://sdrv.ms/12uuVEy (skydrive)
Any idea what the default heated bed relay operation was ? ie. was it setup for fast switching (requiring an SSR) or slow ? My SSR went up in smoke and I'm having trouble sourcing a replacement right away, think it should be alright with a mechanical/automotive relay ?
Did you try using your SSR by any chance to switch a DC load? (sorry, I don't remember everybody's individual setups)
Most SSRs on the market are only suitable to switch AC loads (from i.e. 60-380V), and will get very hot (and potentially burn out) when you try to switch a 20V DC load.
Kris, if that config file works for me you just might be my hero.
My SSR was a dc-dc. My buddy helping out connected the load side backwards which is apparently bad with SSR's. Got a basic automotive 40a in and it's working flawlessly. It cycles on and off for 10-20 seconds at a time which should be fine with the current relay, but I'll probably still mount a new SSR on a heatsink layer for piece of mind.
I need to machine the bed flatter still for printing bigger parts, but it's pretty sweet having the parts pop free as the bed cools. Hope those files work out for you.
The firmware appears to work. Now I just need to get my hacked power supply to work . I have a resistor coming in the mail which I've heard allows it to switch on.
I am also looking for a firmware for a heated bed.
I have all the hardware set up but can't use it yet.
I tried to upload an edited version as specified in the usual links but the ulticontroler goes blank.
Could you please share the .hex file. I downloaded Kristen file but it's an.exe file and I am on a Mac.
Thank you in advance,
IT'S NOT THAT HARD! Here are detailed instructions - first post:
http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/2026-how-to-build-your-own-marlin/
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When did you build this? As my builder was breaking down due to harddisk problems (which is why it's offline now) so it could be that you don't have a proper hex build after all.
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