Need Help - 2-color PLA

[chuckmcgee 7]

Hello all,

Need some assistance. Printing a custom phone case I modeled in Fusion 360 and doing a 2-color print with PLA. Mostly default settings, other than the fact that I am using MatterHacker PRO PLA vs Ultimaker brand.

Anyway...here are a couple screenshots of the model in F360:

Here are my basic Cura settings (v 3.1.0):

I can't understand why the first layer, only after removing the print, looks melted. I am assuming the Z-height may be too low (even though I recently manually calibrated the bed) or the bed too hot. It also looks like there is some elephant foot going on (which may be the result of what looks like melting on the first layer)...but here are images of the outcome:

After that first layer, the other layers are impressive - especially when you look at the quality of the two colors on the inside of the case:

Any idea what is happening here? Suggestions for better settings?

[kmanstudios 1,120]

What printer?

What version of slicer?

It ain't always the plastic.

[chuckmcgee 7]

Slicer is Cura (settings above)

Printer is Ultimaker 3 Extendrd (about a month old)

Filament is MatterHackers PRO PLA

I know it ain’t always the plastic, which is why I included pictures of the model and the slicer settings.

Edited December 12, 2017 by Guest

[kmanstudios 1,120]

Slicer is Cura (settings above)

Printer is Ultimaker 3 Extendrd (about a month old)

Filament is MatterHackers PRO PLA

I know it ain’t always the plastic, which is why I included pictures of the model and the slicer settings.

Which version of Cura?

For instance, there is a setting in the latest version that helps with elephants foot.

And, it was such a tiny slot of slicer settings. I just wanted people to really be able to help you as fully as possible, not make guesses that could be frustrating for you.

[chuckmcgee 7]

No problem. Cura version is above as well. 3.1.0.

Happy to send any other settings. This is a mystery to me.

[kmanstudios 1,120]

One thing I would suggest is to go to Cura Preferences and unhide all the settings in the sidebars.

One of the settings you will find will be the initial offset horizontal expansion developed to combat elephant's foot directly.

Also, hovering over a setting will bring up a tool tip with a decent description of function and how it can help.

It looked like the part lifted a bit on the corner. Just off the top of me pointy head, I would ask what you are using to stick the part to the plate? As a general rule, clean the heck out of it. I use a grease cutting dish soap then when on the build platform, wipe with alcohol, as pure as you can get and then I like to use a PVA slurry.

What brim or other settings? But, what would help is a full screenshot of all settings would be helpful as it could show the more experienced people here things that I am still learning.

There are some things in there that I am not used to seeing, so I am not much help there, but there are much sharper people than myself here.

[chuckmcgee 7]

Thanks kman

I will get those extra settings set up. I didn't see any lifting as, upon close inspection, the whole surface was well adhered (almost too much so). Because I can't explain that smudge in the bottom middle of the side, I am chalking that up to my eagerness to hold the case. I took the glass out of the printer within a minute of finishing, so things were still warm. I thought I was being SUPER careful with attempting to remove the print so it didn't crack, but I think my attempt may have smudged that side with as warm as the print still was. That print was very stuck to the bed...I should have waited longer for it to cool.

Before I left for work, I started up another print with a bed temp of 50 degrees just to see how it goes. It should finish well before I get home from work and be properly cooled. Will use that as another review.

I also didn't say so, but I have it in an enclosure...that no doubt may be holding a warmer temp on the bed, but who knows. Again - brand new printer and using default generic PLA settings - which with a bed temp of 60 direct on glass - I have never seen issues like depicted above.

I will report my update later this evening.

Thanks again!

[chuckmcgee 7]

Also - I know it sounds crazy, but tempted to do another print upside down with supports or on a raft, to attempt to get a matte finish on the bottom. The quality of the inside of that case is breathtaking. The bottom shiny side - not so much as you can see. I wouldn't mind having the inside be the outside in this case.

[chuckmcgee 7]

Well...for the record, I can tell you I don't think the bed was too hot. At 50 degrees, I can see the corners of the print have curled off the print bed. The nozzle is pushing down on those corners while it prints. So...back to trying to understanding what is going on with why that print layer from the pics above look so melted.