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STEP-BY-STEP: Installation of E3D-v6 on UMO

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There are still some Ultimaker Original Owners around (like me), therefore this may be of interest for somebody.

This is just a collection of related information on a single page - I am not the clever head who came up with that ;)

In general there are two ways of installing an E3D-v6 on your old UMO.
At first, you can use the original heaterblock (including heater and thermocouple) - the heaterblock fits the nozzle and heatbreak of the E3D out of the box.
If you do so, you do not have to change/solder any electronics but you have to use your old and maybe worn off things.
The other way is to use the E3D-v6 block, heater and sensor - but you will have to modify your Printer to be 24V compatible that way.

I will explain the latter way here a bit more in detail:


  1. Order E3D-v6
    You need the 24V, 3mm Bowden version. It's up to you to choose a sensor-type: Thermistor, Thermocouple or PT100. If you choose the latter, which has the best accuracy and range, you also need the E3D PT100 amplifier board.

    Unfortunately the wires aren't long enough if you want to lead them the same way as the original cables, stay prepared to make/buy some extension wires for the sensor, heater and fan.
  2. Print a Mount
    You have the choice:
    https://www.youmagine.com/designs/e3d-v6-hot-end-mount by Rai
    https://www.youmagine.com/designs/compact-mount-for-e3d-v6-hot-end-on-ultimaker-original by @amedee
      e.g. in combination with https://www.youmagine.com/designs/e3d-version-of-neotko-s-symmetric-dual-fans-for-umo
    https://www.youmagine.com/designs/e3dv6-printhead-mount-for-ultimaker-original by Johnny Bischof
    https://www.youmagine.com/designs/e3d-integrated-printhead-v1-9 by Nick Foley

    I have printed all of the above designs (expect the last one) and I personally prefer Amedee's and Rai's designs since they both support dual fans. At amedee's design it is just a little hard to reach the bowden clamp and it is a bit heavier than Rais. I also like that the original, now somehow loose fanshrout is integrated in Rai's design.
    Johnny is currently redesigning his one :)

    As always: please double check your dimensional accuracy and think of material shrinkage.
  3. Make your Ultimaker Shield 24V compatible
    The original Ultimaker Arduino Shield is specified for a power supply ranging from 16 to 20V. The MOSFETs (which power the heaters) are supplied by the input voltage directly, therefore - to use a 24V heater cartridge - you have to make the shield compatible to 24V.

    To do so, you have to replace just a single component - the one which is labeled as IC1 on the shield. It's purpose is regulating down the input voltage (16-20V) to 12V, fortunately we can simply replace it by one which allows us to increase the input voltage to 24V - e.g. by TRACO 24120. After the replacement is done, the allowed input voltage is around 15-36V.
    That means, if you ever have to, than you can still use the old/original 19V power supply.

    Take a look here at Amedee's post: 
  4. Power Supply
    As already mentioned, you will need a new Power Supply if you do not own an Heated Bed Kit (HBK) - which comes with an 24V supply.
    The one which is supplied by Ultimaker is produced by MeanWell (24V, 92A): https://www.reichelt.de/Netzteile-Festspannung/MW-GS220A24/3/index.html?ACTION=3&GROUPID=4950&ARTICLE=148086. If you want to use the same one, then you will need an adapter from DIN 4-pin (female) to 5.5mmx2,5mm (male).

    Personally I would suggest to buy one of those 24V 15A supplies by Mean Well if you don't have an HBK.

  5. Hook up the Temp Sensor

    Option 1: Thermistor
    If you use the original E3D temp sensor (which is a thermistor), then you have to further modify your Ultimaker Shield.
    Solder a 4.7Ohm resitor into place R23 (if you want to hook it up at TEMP1). Then, use the outer pins to connect the thermistor, like that:


    In Marlin, this type is 

    Option 2: Thermocouple
    If you want to use a thermocouple like the Ultimaker Original does, then you simply can use the original amplifier board and sensor.

    Option 3: PT100
    If you want to use a PT100 sensor (like the UM2), then you have to use (and order) the E3D PT100 kit (which includes the sensor, an amplifier board and a fitting heater block).
  6. Order some fans for cooling the printed part
    I bought two NF-A4x10 FLX, each around 13€. Yea, that's expensive, but in my eyes (or ears) they are worth it since they are super silent - that's at least what I thought before they arrived.
    But even both fans combined are waaaay too powerless (each 8,2 m³/h) - so I'm still searching for a good one, @neotko used the EBM-PAPST 414H which transports around 13,5 m³/h. 
    Another problem is, that your electronics is now 24V, so you will have to convert it to 12V for the fan

    Update: I ordered another two fans for testing, the SUNON EB40202S2-999 (datasheet)
    They supply an airflow of around 13m³/h - just as the EBM-PAPST and have the same dimensions of 40 x 40 x 20 mm.
    But they seem to be much less noisier (21 dB instead of 29 dB) and cost only a third of the EBM-Papst (around 6€ each, instead of 18€).
  7. Hook up the hotend fan
    Connect the E3D hotend cooling fan in parallel to the electronics fan (which is now powered by 24V). You can do that by simply buying an JST-XH2P Y-cable (one side female, other side 2x male). If you cannot find one, solder one yourself - it's easy ;)


To be completed...

Edited by ataraxis
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