STEP-BY-STEP: Installation of E3D-v6 on UMO

[ataraxis 51]

There are still some Ultimaker Original Owners around (like me), therefore this may be of interest for somebody.

This is just a collection of related information on a single page - I am not the clever head who came up with that

In general there are two ways of installing an E3D-v6 on your old UMO.
At first, you can use the original heaterblock (including heater and thermocouple) - the heaterblock fits the nozzle and heatbreak of the E3D out of the box.
If you do so, you do not have to change/solder any electronics but you have to use your old and maybe worn off things.
The other way is to use the E3D-v6 block, heater and sensor - but you will have to modify your Printer to be 24V compatible that way.

I will explain the latter way here a bit more in detail:
 

 

1. Order E3D-v6
   You need the 24V, 3mm Bowden version. It's up to you to choose a sensor-type: Thermistor, Thermocouple or PT100. If you choose the latter, which has the best accuracy and range, you also need the E3D PT100 amplifier board.
   
   Unfortunately the wires aren't long enough if you want to lead them the same way as the original cables, stay prepared to make/buy some extension wires for the sensor, heater and fan.
    
2. Print a Mount
   You have the choice:
   * https://www.youmagine.com/designs/e3d-v6-hot-end-mount by Rai
   * https://www.youmagine.com/designs/compact-mount-for-e3d-v6-hot-end-on-ultimaker-original by @amedee
     e.g. in combination with https://www.youmagine.com/designs/e3d-version-of-neotko-s-symmetric-dual-fans-for-umo
   * https://www.youmagine.com/designs/e3dv6-printhead-mount-for-ultimaker-original by Johnny Bischof
   * https://www.youmagine.com/designs/e3d-integrated-printhead-v1-9 by Nick Foley
   
   I have printed all of the above designs (expect the last one) and I personally prefer Amedee's and Rai's designs since they both support dual fans. At amedee's design it is just a little hard to reach the bowden clamp and it is a bit heavier than Rais. I also like that the original, now somehow loose fanshrout is integrated in Rai's design.
   Johnny is currently redesigning his one
   
   As always: please double check your dimensional accuracy and think of material shrinkage.
    
3. Make your Ultimaker Shield 24V compatible
   The original Ultimaker Arduino Shield is specified for a power supply ranging from 16 to 20V. The MOSFETs (which power the heaters) are supplied by the input voltage directly, therefore - to use a 24V heater cartridge - you have to make the shield compatible to 24V.
   
   To do so, you have to replace just a single component - the one which is labeled as IC1 on the shield. It's purpose is regulating down the input voltage (16-20V) to 12V, fortunately we can simply replace it by one which allows us to increase the input voltage to 24V - e.g. by TRACO 24120. After the replacement is done, the allowed input voltage is around 15-36V.
   That means, if you ever have to, than you can still use the old/original 19V power supply.
   
   Take a look here at Amedee's post: 
4. Power Supply
   As already mentioned, you will need a new Power Supply if you do not own an Heated Bed Kit (HBK) - which comes with an 24V supply.
   The one which is supplied by Ultimaker is produced by MeanWell (24V, 92A): https://www.reichelt.de/Netzteile-Festspannung/MW-GS220A24/3/index.html?ACTION=3&GROUPID=4950&ARTICLE=148086. If you want to use the same one, then you will need an adapter from DIN 4-pin (female) to 5.5mmx2,5mm (male).
   
   Personally I would suggest to buy one of those 24V 15A supplies by Mean Well if you don't have an HBK.
   
   
    
5. Hook up the Temp Sensor
   
   Option 1: Thermistor
   If you use the original E3D temp sensor (which is a thermistor), then you have to further modify your Ultimaker Shield.
   Solder a 4.7Ohm resitor into place R23 (if you want to hook it up at TEMP1). Then, use the outer pins to connect the thermistor, like that:
   
   
   
   In Marlin, this type is 

   TEMP_SENSOR_0 5

   
   Option 2: Thermocouple
   If you want to use a thermocouple like the Ultimaker Original does, then you simply can use the original amplifier board and sensor.
   
   Option 3: PT100
   If you want to use a PT100 sensor (like the UM2), then you have to use (and order) the E3D PT100 kit (which includes the sensor, an amplifier board and a fitting heater block).
    
6. Order some fans for cooling the printed part
   I bought two NF-A4x10 FLX, each around 13€. Yea, that's expensive, but in my eyes (or ears) they are worth it since they are super silent - that's at least what I thought before they arrived.
   But even both fans combined are waaaay too powerless (each 8,2 m³/h) - so I'm still searching for a good one, @neotko used the EBM-PAPST 414H which transports around 13,5 m³/h. 
   Another problem is, that your electronics is now 24V, so you will have to convert it to 12V for the fan
   
   Update: I ordered another two fans for testing, the SUNON EB40202S2-999 (datasheet)
   They supply an airflow of around 13m³/h - just as the EBM-PAPST and have the same dimensions of 40 x 40 x 20 mm.
   But they seem to be much less noisier (21 dB instead of 29 dB) and cost only a third of the EBM-Papst (around 6€ each, instead of 18€).
    
7. Hook up the hotend fan
   Connect the E3D hotend cooling fan in parallel to the electronics fan (which is now powered by 24V). You can do that by simply buying an JST-XH2P Y-cable (one side female, other side 2x male). If you cannot find one, solder one yourself - it's easy

 

To be completed...

Edited April 24, 2018 by ataraxis

[Catlord 17]

Hi,
That's a pity you didn't finish your tutorial man ^^
I'm in plain middle of changing my print head :/

Do you have any other recommandations ? 

Did you manage to print carbon filament ?

 

Thanks in advance,

Best regards,

Cedric

 

[ataraxis 51]

@Catlord: What exactly do you mean? It's just the fans, right? Personally I have still the original one installed since I hadn't time to give the others a try. Feel free to commit your experience too if you have finished the installation.

[Catlord 17]

3 hours ago, ataraxis said:

@Catlord: What exactly do you mean? It's just the fans, right? Personally I have still the original one installed since I hadn't time to give the others a try. Feel free to commit your experience too if you have finished the installation.

Hi,
Thank you for the very fast answer :)
That's because you wrote 'to be continued" at the end of your post and I thought that there was other things to mention ^^

 

Are you printing carbon filement with your E3D ? 
 

I'm just considering to change , I'm not yet at the credit card point 😄

 

[ataraxis 51]

> because you wrote 'to be continued"

Yeah that's because of the fans :)

 

I installed the E3D because I am printing ABS from time to time and because I wanted to switch to a full metal hotend because of the wear of the original one. I never printed something with carbon filaments, so I cannot tell you anything about how good or bad the E3D behaves there.

 

There are two downsides I recognized so far:

1) The hotend fan is noisy (the small one)

2) It's sometimes hard to remove the filament because the melted platics get stuck at the cold end of the hotend (haha :D)

 

I would say it was worth the time and money I invested anyway, I printed really a lot with ABS.

 

Cheers

[Catlord 17]

thanks :)

the part you printed for the E3D ( the mount from RAI or amedee), did you print it in ABS ? isn't it a problem to support a hotend with plastic ? 

 

I will be stuck by ABS printing I think because I tried this one time only and it has been a HUGE mess (clogging and so on)

 

I have found this part that could do the job : UMo E3DV6 aluminium mount

 

what do you think about it ? 

 

Edited May 14, 2019 by Catlord

[Catlord 17]

Hi Ataraxis :)

I have received the aluminium support. I will post an update once mounted.

 

Did you proceed to a PID TUNING (M303 Gcpde command) or did you leave the stock ones ? 

[Catlord 17]

Here it is :)

I have a UMO+ (with UM2 white Board)

- the small fan is 24V 

- the 2 side fans are 12v but they react weirdly: you have to put it full speed in order to have them working. maybe I will change them for better one.

- the bushings have a little mechanical play => I have kept the orginal ones from my UMO+

- I have also kept the 40W heat cartridge and the PT100 from the UMO+

- I ran a PID tunning and the PID are very far from the original ones :

Original PID :

P:22.2

I 1.08

D 114

 

new ones : 

P :18.53

I 1.05

D 80.25

 

Work to be done :  

- change position the Y limit switch : the aluminium block is larger than the original UMO support => mechanical stop in the aluminium block rather than in the limit switch

- print some T° testing towers

- and go for carbon filament printing ^^

 

 

[Plastiknerd 0]

Orginal : Warte der Beitrag ist zwar alt aber kann man so den umo auf 1.75 filament umrüsten ?

 

 

google translate : Wait ,the post is old but can I so convert the umo to 1.75 fliament?

[Catlord 17]

On 9/20/2020 at 3:47 PM, Plastiknerd said:

Orginal : Warte der Beitrag ist zwar alt aber kann man so den umo auf 1.75 filament umrüsten ?

 

 

google translate : Wait ,the post is old but can I so convert the umo to 1.75 fliament?

There is nothing that can stop you :)
You have to change the hotend, the extruder, the bowden tube.

all your printing chain in fact

[fjulian79 0]

Hi .. 

 

I have equipped my UMO (+HBK) with an v6 Hot-end according to this Description and found a mistake in the original description. There is written hat a 4.7Ohm restore shall be used, but you have to use a 4,7K resistor!

 

Add-on: I have bought Extrudr Greentec Pro filament to print a mount based on amadee's design as this should be an easy filament with good thermal resistance. But be aware, if the fitting of the hotted is to tight the plastic parts break because of the internal tension. Finally I made it print one's who survived until now, but it was not a easy task.

 

br J.

[LordHokage 7]

On 4/11/2018 at 8:51 AM, ataraxis said:

Make your Ultimaker Shield 24V compatible
The original Ultimaker Arduino Shield is specified for a power supply ranging from 16 to 20V. The MOSFETs (which power the heaters) are supplied by the input voltage directly, therefore - to use a 24V heater cartridge - you have to make the shield compatible to 24V.

To do so, you have to replace just a single component - the one which is labeled as IC1 on the shield. It's purpose is regulating down the input voltage (16-20V) to 12V, fortunately we can simply replace it by one which allows us to increase the input voltage to 24V - e.g. by TRACO 24120. After the replacement is done, the allowed input voltage is around 15-36V.
That means, if you ever have to, than you can still use the old/original 19V power supply.

I'm super late here but I'll just ask a question.

Can I use the 12v version of the E3D v6 instead of the 24v version?

Thanks!