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jenjaw

Nozzle - Ready To print?

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Right, this nozzle is becoming my nemesis now, so I could do with a little bit of advice before I start printing again.

Basically I had a jamming issue, and I managed to break the PEEK and brass tube, then when putting that back together after I got the new parts the nozzle sheared and got stuck in the aluminium block. Now I have replaced all of the broken parts I can finally put it back together!

As I'm putting it together now, the whole hot end part seems a little too easy to unscrew. The Brass tube is firmly in the PEEK and is not going anywhere but the Aluminium block and nozzle can be unscrewed pretty easily, which was quite noticeable when tightening the wire parts in (I'm not that technical...).

It seems kind of tightened together now, I took some pictures to see what you guys thought and if there is anything glaringly wrong before I start printing. I can't really afford to break it again!

1074070_10201481865278068_1675707469_o.jpg

1074593_10201481864998061_632571769_o.jpg

Thanks!

 

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Thanks for the input guys!

I've done a couple of prints that seem to have gone ok, but I think the nozzle is still too loose, the block has spun around and loosened itself when printing and some of the filament looks as though its coming out the top which worries me a lot. Any advice?

1094000_10201483379035911_173833440_o.jpg

 

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The guys @ E3D have a good instruction for their hotend - make the final tightening of the nozzle while the hotend is above it's operating temp - probably 240deg. That way you can account for the thermal expansion.

Another useful way of assembling is to rotate your entire hotend so that in order to loosen, the heater block has to spin past the M3 thumbscrew - essentially using the thumbscrew as a hard stop to prevent any loosening.

 

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the block has spun around

 

 

using the thumbscrew as a hard stop

 

My screws stick down far enough to keep the block from spinning. I don't know what is different about your hotend. Maybe your screws are shorter?

My block is loose enough that it can indeed rotate. I don't think that is a problem.

Your white cable is pushing on the fan shroud and may be partly to blame why there is a rotational force. When it rotates enough to stop pushing against the fan shroud it will probably stop rotating. I suspect it's fine. Many hot ends leak a little PLA. Over many hours of printing the PLA gets stickier and harder and blacker and will eventually probably stop future leaks. You could also shove some ABS through your hot end which UM used to sell a few feet of just for this purpose (plugging leaks).

I would just leave everything as is until you are forced to take it apart again.

 

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