Oh. And you may have hooked up the heater wrong. First get this temp sensor working. That's important to get working before working on the heater part. But I believe the heater terminals on the UMO board output 19V on one side and floating on the other and then when the heater comes on it grounds one side. This 19V may be too much for your relay - it may blow it out. Instead you should probably put the proper high voltage connected directly to one side of the relay according to it's specifications (does it take 5V? 12V? Some other nominal voltage? Look up the allowed voltage - if you put in too much you can destroy it - it will say what the normal range of voltages that it accepts for the coil side in the specs). Then you can run a single wire from the relay coil all the way to the UMO board to that pin I mentioned that is sometimes floating and sometimes ground. Make sure the ground for the power supply goes to some ground pin somewhere on the UMO so the grounds are connected together.
Actually if you aren't good at this stuff (maybe you did it properly already) you could draw out a circuit diagram of what you did and photograph it and post it here to ask if it looks okay.
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gr5 2,224
Unfortunately barely any two 100k thermistors are alike. Unlike say PT100s, you need to know exactly the part number.
Which of the Marlin builders out there did you use? I strongly recommend this one:
https://bultimaker.bulles.eu/
Note that there are MANY 100k thermistors. They all have different curves. Very different. So hopefully your's is on the list. If not you are mostly screwed and should buy one that *is* on the list.
In theory you could make your own table. But thermistors are typically under $1 so why bother? If you want to do your own table you first need to learn to complie marlin yourself (not using bultimaker). I can help you with that. Then you have to create your own table. Trust me - it's easier to use an existing table.
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