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Please help me to fix this print.


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Posted · Please help me to fix this print.

I just joined this excellent forum and need help with the Cura settings and parameters.Here is the info:
Printer------ 1.75mm 0.4mm Nozzle
Filament---ApolloX ASA 1.75mm (https://www.formfutura.com/shop/product ... tegory=116)
Nozzle temp--245 deg C
Bed temp--100 deg C
Slicer used--Cura and printed using brim option

My problems:

1)Part rigidity.Its top section is breaking easily as the wall section is thin.I want to make just the top section solid so that its more rigid (rigidity needed only on the top section where the grooves are).I am attaching the stl file and the pic of my printed part.You can see the top section broke with very little force.

2)Top and bottom layers are too thin.

3)Bottom layer finish is not good.But i found that surface finish of the brim is excellent.Its so smooth.

Please help.Thanks.




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    Posted · Please help me to fix this print.

    This is a very common problem with all materials other than PLA.  I call it "layer adhesion" problems.


    If your parts break along layer lines it's almost always layer adhesion issues.  Parts, when printed properly, will not have grain.


    The problem is the layer below the one being printed is too cold and the layer being placed now is not melting the layer below so you don't get good layer adhesion.


    The fix is in a word: heat.

    1) Turn off the fan or lower it to the absolute lowest setting where it still rotates.  1% on a UM3, 30% on a UM2.  Every printer is different.  If the fan is off your quality may go down a bit - especially on overhangs.  So a little bit of fan is usually good.  But if you are printing a cube with no overhangs then consider turning it off completely.

    2) Raise the air temp.  Best way is to cover the top and sides of the printer.  For any UM printer this is very easy to do.  Box for the top.  Saran wrap for the sides.  Easy.  35C is a good goal temp for the air.  It will make a huge difference in layer adhesion and also warping.

    3) Raise the nozzle temp - this is usually a bad idea.  For example with ABS this will cause it to clog.  It can also lower the quality of the part if the filament is pouring out like honey instead of the more desireable toothpaste viscosity.

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    Posted (edited) · Please help me to fix this print.

    Thanks a lot gr5 for your reply.I printed that part with fan turned off completely and ambient temp was 25 deg C.But will try to make a enclosure for the printer and raise the nozzle temp as you suggested.


    Is there any setting in cura that can help me?I mean to make the top section of the part completely solid instead of shelled?Thanks.

    Edited by ninja_zx11
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    Posted · Please help me to fix this print.
    On 10/16/2018 at 2:52 PM, ninja_zx11 said:

    I mean to make the top section of the part completely solid instead of shelled?Thanks.

    I don't know what you mean.  Your top layers are concentric instead of diagonal infill.  Is that what you mean?


    Or do you not want your part to be hollow?  Making the part solid will not likely make it any stronger.  Bones are hollow for a reason - there is almost no strength gain to make them solid.  


    I guess I need to see how you are using the part to show where to make it stronger but in general if your walls are at least 5% as thick as the entire thickness of the part then the next way to make it stronger is to make it bigger.  But PLA and ABS are impressively strong.  This part should be able to handle my weight (175 pounds) pulling on it when printed properly in either PLA or ABS.  If all you care about is strength then stay away from ABS.  I could go on and on about material properties...

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    Posted · Please help me to fix this print.

    I just looked up the mechanical properties of ASA and it's right about the same as ABS and PLA for both strength and flexibility.  Maybe slightly stiffer (more brittle) but I don't think anyone would notice a difference with typical testing (hammer testing, pull testing, etc).  You'd need professional equipment to tell the difference.


    The elongation at break at 15% was pretty impressive but not very meaningful as it may be incredibly weak there - better would be "elongation at yield" so it's hard to say if it's brittle or not but it probably is slightly more brittle than PLA.  If you bend the raw filament in a circle does it snap like spaghetti?



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    Posted · Please help me to fix this print.

    Okay I guess it's slightly more flexible than average PLA but not as much as TPLA so I had it slightly backwards.  I added ApolloX to my materials web page interactive graph.  Here is a snap shot zoomed in on the pla/abs region.  Green circles are pla.  Red are abs or asa - click on picture to zoom:


    My web page is here:


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    Posted · Please help me to fix this print.

    Excellent info gr5!!


    Last night i tried to print it again with enclosure(enclosure temp 36 deg C) and got much better results than my first try without enclosure.Now part feels much stronger.I tried to break it (section where it broke last time)by hand and it didn't break.


    But I found that part got warped from the bottom but top of my part was absolutely flat.I heated my bed to 105 deg.Could it be due to the bed being too hot?I have attached the pic of my part where it shows warpage on the bottom.


    Also there is fine gap on the top layer as shown in the picture.I read somewhere that it could be due to concentric pattern selected in Cura.Will try to use lines in next print.



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