I just looked up the mechanical properties of ASA and it's right about the same as ABS and PLA for both strength and flexibility. Maybe slightly stiffer (more brittle) but I don't think anyone would notice a difference with typical testing (hammer testing, pull testing, etc). You'd need professional equipment to tell the difference.
The elongation at break at 15% was pretty impressive but not very meaningful as it may be incredibly weak there - better would be "elongation at yield" so it's hard to say if it's brittle or not but it probably is slightly more brittle than PLA. If you bend the raw filament in a circle does it snap like spaghetti?
http://labiche-renard.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/01/ApolloX-TDS-Formfutura-1.pdf
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gr5 2,224
This is a very common problem with all materials other than PLA. I call it "layer adhesion" problems.
If your parts break along layer lines it's almost always layer adhesion issues. Parts, when printed properly, will not have grain.
The problem is the layer below the one being printed is too cold and the layer being placed now is not melting the layer below so you don't get good layer adhesion.
The fix is in a word: heat.
1) Turn off the fan or lower it to the absolute lowest setting where it still rotates. 1% on a UM3, 30% on a UM2. Every printer is different. If the fan is off your quality may go down a bit - especially on overhangs. So a little bit of fan is usually good. But if you are printing a cube with no overhangs then consider turning it off completely.
2) Raise the air temp. Best way is to cover the top and sides of the printer. For any UM printer this is very easy to do. Box for the top. Saran wrap for the sides. Easy. 35C is a good goal temp for the air. It will make a huge difference in layer adhesion and also warping.
3) Raise the nozzle temp - this is usually a bad idea. For example with ABS this will cause it to clog. It can also lower the quality of the part if the filament is pouring out like honey instead of the more desireable toothpaste viscosity.
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ninja_zx11 1
Thanks a lot gr5 for your reply.I printed that part with fan turned off completely and ambient temp was 25 deg C.But will try to make a enclosure for the printer and raise the nozzle temp as you suggested.
Is there any setting in cura that can help me?I mean to make the top section of the part completely solid instead of shelled?Thanks.
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gr5 2,224
I don't know what you mean. Your top layers are concentric instead of diagonal infill. Is that what you mean?
Or do you not want your part to be hollow? Making the part solid will not likely make it any stronger. Bones are hollow for a reason - there is almost no strength gain to make them solid.
I guess I need to see how you are using the part to show where to make it stronger but in general if your walls are at least 5% as thick as the entire thickness of the part then the next way to make it stronger is to make it bigger. But PLA and ABS are impressively strong. This part should be able to handle my weight (175 pounds) pulling on it when printed properly in either PLA or ABS. If all you care about is strength then stay away from ABS. I could go on and on about material properties...
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