Jump to content
Ultimaker Community of 3D Printing Experts
Sign in to follow this  
drumrboy44

Tapping new Industrial Power Supply for Heated Bed Upgrade

Recommended Posts

Okkkk, finally got the last pieces for my heated bed build (I have the Mk3 Prusa RepRap aluminum PCB - http://reprap.me/epages/reprap_nu_4149051.sf/en_US/?ObjectPath=/Shops/reprap_nu_4149051/Products/%22RepRap%20Alu-Heatbed%22), and determined that a 360V PSU at 24V should work fine. I picked up an industrial PSU on ebay that should meet my requirements. More or less as expected, when I received the PSU, the back looks like this:

Industrial PSU

 

I have seen these before, but have not messed with them in any capacity. I was planning on just stripping an extension cord or something and hooking up ground to ground, but not really sure what to do with the N and L, or which other connection points to use. And should I actually solder the wires in, or just use the provided screws and screw the wires down?

 

Any input of how to approach, or things to keep in mind would be much appreciated.

Thanks.

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Here is an old PSU used in these Shuttle computers, this one is 3 years old and only rated at 300W with 14A at the 12V+1.

I had to remove all the cables as I wont use them & wired Pin 14 to GND to auto start for now. It worked out really well, I don't have a temperature reading yet but in 3 minutes It got close to 80C I would say.

null_zpse5de0650.jpg

null_zpsb5807bc2.jpg

null_zps66cf7214.jpg

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Definitely don't solder when you can screw it down as this is safer.

N is neutral from your house power (white wire)

L is power from your house power (black wire)

Third one is ground from your house power (green wire)

You can use any old junk extension cord and screw it in there.

Make damn sure there are no tiny wires anywhere shorting between any of these 3 signals.

The 24V comes out of the + and - terminals. You might have to short them together as possibly one each are for "sense" where it senses the voltage and adjusts as necessary. Meaning short the - terminals together and short the + terminals.

You want to use the largest wire that seems reasonable to fit under those DC terminals. Anything laying around the house that fits that description is fine. After you hook it up to your heated bed and run it for 5 minutes, feel the temperature of the wires. If they are quite hot then you need larger diameter wires.

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
Sign in to follow this  

Announcements

  • Our picks

    • Architect Design Contest | Vehicles.
      We're open for entries! - Design and submit your 3D designs of architectural entourage - vehicles - for a chance to win a large filament pack. Presenting an idea, an architectural design or something as big as an urban project isn't easy. A scaled model can really help to get your idea across.
        • Like
      • 24 replies
    • What The DfAM?
      I'm Steve Cox, an experienced engineer familiar with 3D printing. I wanted to share some DfAM guidelines with this community to help and make stronger parts.
      I'm also an Autodesk Certified Instructor for Fusion 360, so many of the images in ...
        • Thanks
        • Like
      • 23 replies
×

Important Information

Welcome to the Ultimaker Community of 3D printing experts. Visit the following links to read more about our Terms of Use or our Privacy Policy. Thank you!