no, sticker should be on top so that you can read it. It's out of the print area so there's no reason not to put it on top.
- 3 months later...
Maybe we could tin both sides and get rid of the sticker :). You could then also flip it over and use for a new print.
In my opinion it makes maybe a difference when you print on plain glass. As soon as you use some adhesion like glue or adhesion spray, it makes no difference which side you are using. I use both sides regulary without any difference.
Thanks Smithy, good to know.
Just got my S5 a few days ago, so still doing everything by the numbers until we get some hours clocked up. So far adhesion is superb, even with ABS.
PVA has been more of a challenge.
- 1
- SandervG unpinned this topic
- 8 months later...
The base layer print was not uniform for my printer. It nozzle tip were scratching on the build plate on some locations. The problem persist after several calibration. At last, I found the problem for uneven surface. I checked the build plate with a dial gauge found some deviation . A deviation of 0.168mm is too much for a print with 0.1mm layer height. This is not good. Picture attached.
Lancy, did you get two glass plates with your printer and is your second one the same?
The printer does a calibration before each print which should account for all deviations in the build surface.
Which printer do you have?
I have ultimaker 3 extended.
However we have purchased a new build plate. The plate surface is perfectly flat throughout. It looks like there is slight deviation when printing. The nozzle starts to scratch on build plate when it approach close to rear right corner. I have calibrated manually many times. I have never experienced this problem in ultimaker 2 so far.
Does the spring tension affect active calibration ?
How can we turn off the active calibration ?
Something is not right?
From what I understand (please correct me if I am wrong) but the active calibration is designed to remove the discrepancies with the build plate. No manual calibration will ever be accurate across the entire plate, it's only intended to get it close. The active calibration compensates for the slight differences and adjusts the height of the nozzle during the print depending on which part of the build it is over.
I have an S5, but I would have thought it would behave the same as your 3.
Does the skirt line at the beginning print evenly?
Problem solved. First I thank for the good flatness across one side of the build plate.
The active calibration was the culprit.
The problem is solved when active calibration was turned off (switched to "never" option).
I guess the plate deforms a little bit when the tip press against the plate during active calibration.
Edited by lancy
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JohnCoker 0
I gather that the sticker should be down (print on opposite site), but I would also like official confirmation. (I have a newer glass plate as I purchased my UM5 late 2019.)
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