Front Y touchsensor problem on an assembled Ultimaker

[etienne-martin 0]

Hello, we just got our Ultimaker (assembled), but one sensor end racing presents a problem.

Using the Cura configuration wizard, the Y endstop sensor is not found.

I tested the sensor and these cables with a multimeter : no worries.

The sensors are plugged in the good inputs...

Any idea?

Thank you for your answers ...

 

[SandervG 1,521]

Hi Martin,

I would advise to skip this test in the first run wizard.

Sometimes it is buggy and therefore give you wrong information.

Most likely your end stop is working just fine.

I would advice to start a print, and manually press the end stop to see if it interferes with the movement of your printhead.

Or you can just start a print and finish it, and share your results with us! :cool:

 

[etienne-martin 0]

I started a print, but this sensor seems to be usefull for the starting position of the printer.

So I had to switch off the printer when it was forcing on the belt :(

I also tried to upgrade the firmware with the wizard, but no result.

May I try an other sotware ?

 

[LePaul 321]

I had a similar problem with the Front limit switch

You had no luck with upgrading the Marlin software in the wizard?

The only reason I ask is that when I did, then powered the machine off and tried again the next day...the sensors all worked doing the exact same things I had done before. Not sure what or why it behaved how it did, just glad it seemed to cure itself (Cure? Cura? Ha ha?)

 

[etienne-martin 0]

Nop...

No change since yesterday...

But... I'm sure the "y front sensor" is ok, because if I start the checkup with a contact on it, a message appears "be sure there is no contact with the sensors", and when I release the sensor, the checkup begin... But when the computer ask "please press the front Y endstop", it doesn't feels it anymore.

Any idea?

 

[msurunner 2]

(Cure? Cura? Ha ha?)

 

That's actually kind of the thought process behind how Daid named the program.

Okay Martin,

So you confirmed that the switch IS actually interrupting/connecting current flow? I would think that the simple solution to get you up and running immediately would be to swap limit switches from the bottom limiter to the one in question and see if that "solves" the problem. If it doesn't, then there is likely an issue somewhere in the cable/board as the software SHOULD be good. Be sure the cable wires are twisted to avoid interference. Then outside of that, the board would be my only guess, however, UM has been quality checking them (correct me if this is no longer the case Sander) before they leave the door. That's not to say shipping could have damaged it, but that seems more unlikely than a switch getting jostled or developing a case of infant mortality.

 

[gr5 2,172]

So I had to switch off the printer when it was forcing on the belt

 

I know it makes a horrible sound but if you just let it do that for a few more seconds it will give up and print just fine afterwards. This is something you need to fix but you can at least print some things now.

Could it be that the limit switch is a little too far away and isn't always getting touched by the block?

Maybe you are missing a pullup resistor on your PCB. This would cause the voltage to float I think.

Did you let Cura load your firmware? The firmware that comes with the Arduino I believe might have the limit switches backwards.

 

[SandervG 1,521]

Hi MSU,

Yes, all pcb boards are being checked on quality before they leave.

Every single one of them. However, from experience i have learned this doesn't mean nothing ever goes wrong.

Like you said shipping, a human mistake or an unstable power net can still cause damage to the pcb.

I did not fully understand Martin's post about the end stop. Are you saying the end stop is being pressed during an actual print job, but it does not interfere with the printhead's path?

Are you sure you connected the end stop at the correct header on the pcb? Perhaps the Y end stop is connected to the X header, or the other way around. Please double check the wires.

Looking forward hearing about your findings,

 

[etienne-martin 0]

Thanks for all your answers.

I'm working in a sciences museum (The Pass, in Belgium), and the ultimaker was chosen built, because I haven't a lot of time to build it my self (I would have love that )

So the Utimaker arrived without damage on the box, and with a test print done... I think the problem came from the upgrading I asked during the first use wizard operation. ( as said LePaul).

I'm sure of :

- the input (according to the name "printed" on the wood... I also tested all the other switches during the wizard test... nothing reacts)

- the electrical fonction of the switch (tested with its cables)

- the cables are safe (as i said, the printer was completed)

- the connection is OK (I disconnected/reconnected several times...)

- I don't think pullup resistor could be missing on your PCB (as i said, the printer was completed, and a print test was realized before shipping)

-the limit switch can be touched by the block (but even if I touch it with my finger, there's no recognition during the wizard test...

I think the input on the PCB is not damaged

Because, I said earlier, if I try to start the wizard with a contact on the Y front touch sensor's, the program asks me to be sure there's no contact a the beginning of the test :roll:

(I never print with the Utimaker, only did the test until the limit sensor test for the wizard...) My only test of print was for test the idea of SandervG, printing without finishing the wizard, but the printer forced during the movement for the starting position, so I had to put off the printer)

Can I find somewhere an older version of Marlin, to see if the problem could come from the upgrade?

Is it possible to delete the memory (even if I think it's done when I ask an upgrade, during the wizard...)

I also looked into the Cura posts, but saw no problem like mine...

I'll try again tomorrow...

 

[etienne-martin 0]

Did you let Cura load your firmware? The firmware that comes with the Arduino I believe might have the limit switches backwards.

 

Where can I find this firmware version?

 

[msurunner 2]

Reflashing the firmware will reset the memory AFIK, so you don't have to delete anything. It's been a couple months since I was super active (school teacher enjoying summer break) but when I left, Daid's Marlin-builder was down temporarily as he was working on dual extrusion and Cura upgrades. It may be back online and someone can link to it here, or the old link (search "Marlin builder") may still be the active download location. If not, you could search for an older version of Cura (version 12 is still available in the older/testing downloads section) and seeing if it's a package thing, though I'm doubtful any changes have been made in the actual firmware from 12 to 13. All the same, you may be at a frustration level where trying anything is an option.

Also, not that it will probably make any difference, but how are you asking the UM to read g-code? Via USB or SD on the Ulticontroller? I know there were some issues users discovered when trying to manipulate things with the Ulticontroller while USB printing that I don't know were resolved as the Ulticontroller's primary function is to remove the necessity for the USB tether...

 

[gr5 2,172]

The versions of Marlin that come with Cura are pretty stable I beleive but if you want to be safe, download and install Cura 13.04 or older and use the first run wizard to install Marlin. That is a very safe version of Marlin.

I don't recommend building marlin. You can google "ginge marlin builder" but I advise against this until you get your Ultimaker working.

Please be aware that you can print even if all the XY switches are broken. But Z I think needs to be working. The printer makes a horrible sound for maybe 10 seconds while the steppers try to go past the end, and then it prints just fine after that.

Perhaps your cables came loose during shipping. I would take off the bottom cover (with power off) and remove and re-insert all the limit switch cables:

http://wiki.ultimaker.com/Ultimaker_rev.3_assembly:_Mounting_the_electronics#Step_6:_Connecting_the_rest_of_the_cables

 

[etienne-martin 0]

Also, not that it will probably make any difference, but how are you asking the UM to read g-code? Via USB or SD on the Ulticontroller? I know there were some issues users discovered when trying to manipulate things with the Ulticontroller while USB printing that I don't know were resolved as the Ulticontroller's primary function is to remove the necessity for the USB tether...

 

All my tests where made via USB. I only tried to eject the SD card, and put it in again...

No change this morning.

I tried to plug an other switch on the Y front input. No change.

 

[msurunner 2]

As much as I'd hate to blame the board, that's where I'm inclined to lean now...

 

[etienne-martin 0]

I did several tests, forcing (horrible noise) at each start.

The printers works perfectly, excepting this problem... So the probleme could have existed for the "test print" sent with the printer.

As I will have soon to use this printer for workshops in the museum, I would like to find a solution (And I think the motor wont't like this situation for a long time...).

Does the Ultimaker team has something to suggest?

 

[gr5 2,172]

Yes, I had the same thought - it may have been broken before you even got it. More likely something shook loose during shipping.

This is a bad place to communicate with support. Create a ticket. Unfortunately you probably won't hear back until Monday. You might not want to hear this but I recommend you do some electronics debugging. Plus shipping from The Netherlands is slow if you need a new board or switch.

You might not agree but I recommend you do some more debugging. You said you checked the cable - what does that mean? Did you take the bottom cover off the electronics board (by the way there is a single 3 pin voltage regulator that sticks up - this can get very hot so if power is on check this with your fingers occasionally and cut power if it is hot enough to boil water)?

I would hook up a volt meter to that connector and measure the resistance - make sure it is under 10 ohms (should be under 1 ohm) when you click the switch and over 1MOhm when switch is open. Giggle the wire especially near the switch and near the connector end. Make sure the meter is always connected so you can see brief wiring errors.

If it is broken even slightly then consider replacing the wiring or replace it with another switch. You only need one sensor for each axis (x,y,z). For example you are unlikely to ever need the Z bottom sensor. The firmware in the UM (Marlin) has software limits on I believe by default so those other switches should never get tripped unless you have a hardware failure and if you have a hardware failure, the UM can handle the force of going beyond the limit (well maybe the Z can't but the x and y can).

If it seems fine then connect a different sensor anyway (e.g. Z bottom switch) to the Y front sensor, put the UM back together and test it with Cura or by homeing and hitting the switch with your fingers. If it still is broken then it's your PCB (printed circuit board). There may be a cold solder joint for the pullup resistor. If you are good with electronics then we can send you the circuit diagram if you want or you can get it through googling. Or if you are not good with electronics just ask Ultimaker for a new board and they will likely send you one free. While waiting for it you can continue to print.

 

[etienne-martin 0]

Thanks a lot for your answer,

I'm not a master in electronic, but I think my test of the contacts was correct

You'll find an image here : https://plus.google.com/photos/101310739335335485101/albums/5924121851933915137?authkey=CM_Mmv_q673X7wE

The sensor is correct, for the electrical and the mechanical points of view...

 

[gr5 2,172]

Maybe your arduino board is loose or bent pin?

I think you should create a ticket for Ultimaker Support.