Ultimaker 2 Buildingplate crashes in head after Mainboard replacement

[muhkoch 2]

Hi all

 

I'm close to loosing my temper. I'd be very thankful for any help. 

I have a Ultimaker 2 with an Olsenblock. Because of a failure, I had to replace my old 2.1.1 Mainboard with a new one (2.1.4). 

After switching it on, my Ultimaker 2 likes to go through this first calibration steps. 

But every time he likes to level the building plate he crashes in the head. Actually it just happens once, every other time I was faster in switching it of before it crashed. 

What Can i do?

 

I have to say that I had used the 8/16 jumper with the old Mainboard. When I set this jumper on the new Mainboard, the building plate doesn't crash any more. It also acheaves to level the building plate. But when it has finished this procedure and wants to home the building plate, h stops around 20mm before reaching it and launches the error "Z switch broken Go to: ultimaker.com/ER05"

 

I made sure that all the cables are connected at the right plug and properly. So I think it's not because of the connection. Furthermore I've measured the Z-switch with a multi-meter. It makes a short circuit when it's pressed. Otherwise it's an open switch. So I think it works also properly. 

 

I have also installed the newest Thinker firmware (19.03.1) as well as the newest "normal" firmware. But with both happens the same. 

I'd be really thankful, for any advice how I can get out of this mess. 

 

For completeness, how the whole mess started, and why I had to change the Mainboard: 

The walls of my print weren't very fin anymore. Some layers were staying out. I think I had over and under extrusion. According to the internet this lays because of the Z-axis. So i checked the 8/16-Jumper (which I sadly made my self with aluminium foil and tape). Because I thought, it may have a loose connection, I wanted to create a new jumper out of aluminium foil and tape again (what a bad idea, as I came to realise). While I was creating new jumper, the aluminium foil touched the PCB. Even it was not plunged to the power, it created a short circuit. 

The Ultimaker 2 with the old (2.1.1) Mainboard could still start, but the Z-axis didn't work anymore. Every time I wanted to home the building plate the error "Z switch broken" came. That's why I ordered a new Mainboard. 

 

Thank you for your help. 

[tinkergnome 924]

Well, as one of the first steps you have to provide any new mainboard with the correct firmware for your printer - preferable before you put it into the printer... But by now this is already done, if i understand your description right?

 

In addition: if you double the microstep setting you have to double the setting for steps/mm as well (from 200 to 400).

And please do not use aluminium foil.... 🙂

 

[muhkoch 2]

I have now the new 2.1.4 Mainboard with the newest "normal" firmware installed. I did that with cura. 

 

And I do not have unplugged in the jumper on the new Mainboard. 

I can't change the step/mm at the moment as the Ultimaker likes first to go through all these first calibration steps. But I can't go though them, as he likes to lift up the building plat until it hits the head. So I have to switch it off. 

What could you recommend?

 

I think with the installation of the firmware the parameters are retested and it's calibrations are set to not use the 8/16 jumper. Right?

[tinkergnome 924]

4 hours ago, muhkoch said:

I think with the installation of the firmware the parameters are retested and it's calibrations are set to not use the 8/16 jumper. Right?

 

It depends... During "normal" firmware updates all stored (EEPROM-) settings are not touched or changed. That means, steps/mm will remain on the stored value - whatever it is... And you can't perform a manual factory reset in this stage...

 

As a hack: if you switch back and forth between the firmware variants for UM2 and UM2+, an implicit factory reset is performed.

 

I would connect the printer with the USB cable and a serial console (for example printrun or Octoprint). The start messages show all stored parameters and you can "simulate" a factory reset with the gcode command M502, followed by M500.

This can be done at any time and without to complete the "first run wizard".

[muhkoch 2]

22 hours ago, tinkergnome said:

 

It depends... During "normal" firmware updates all stored (EEPROM-) settings are not touched or changed. That means, steps/mm will remain on the stored value - whatever it is... And you can't perform a manual factory reset in this stage...

 

As a hack: if you switch back and forth between the firmware variants for UM2 and UM2+, an implicit factory reset is performed.

 

I would connect the printer with the USB cable and a serial console (for example printrun or Octoprint). The start messages show all stored parameters and you can "simulate" a factory reset with the gcode command M502, followed by M500.

This can be done at any time and without to complete the "first run wizard".

Thank you very much tinkergnome. 
Switching between the two firmware UM2 and UM2+ didn't work. 

But your second hint worked very well. 
I've installed the printrun, and connected the UM2 via USB. With the Baud rate of 250000 I could communicate with the UM2. As you described I just had to send the Command M502 and M500. It worked perfectly. Afterwards the bed didn't crash anymore into the printing head, and I could work through the first configurations steps.
THANKS A LOT!

Edited April 29, 2019 by muhkoch