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Wriggly walls

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Posted · Wriggly walls

Hi again. 


I'd be very pleased, if you can help me once more. 

Two-three weeks ago my printer startet out of nothing to print the walls quite wriggly (see Image "1").

My Ultimaker 2 has the newest Thinker firmware (V19.03.1) installed.

I've printed PLA with 210° / 60° at standard speed. 




Nicolinux had in 2016 a similar Problem, described in the flowing threat:

Because of this, I also tried to switch of the build plate heating. 

When I switched if off, everything was great (see Image "2"):



But without the build plate heating it looses the adhesion. So I tried the PID auto config with 5 iterations. Which gave the following result (see Image "3"):



All the previous prints were printed with 0.2 mm Layer hight.

I then accidentally tried to print one with 0.1 mm Layer hight. Which resulted in a print without any wriggles, even though the print bead heating was activated.  (see Image "4"): 



How is this possible? I'm getting wriggy walls when I print with 0.2 mm Layer hight. But with 0.1 mm Layer hight everything is OK. Or when I print with 0.2 mm Layer hight but stop the printing bed heating, also every thing is all right. But the adhesion is very bad. So I need this combination of 0.2 mm Layer hight and printing bed heating. 


Thanks for your advice.





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    • 1 month later...
    Posted · Wriggly walls

    So I finally figured it out. 

    I tried the flowing: 

    • Setting 8/16 Jumer
      • Not influence
    • Loosening the long screws of the printing head
      • improves the print but it has still wriggles
    • Greasing the z-axis
      • no improvement
    • Changing heat bed temperature
      • no improvement
    • Changing extruder temperature
      • improves the print but it has still wriggles
    • Switching of the fan
      • no improvement
    • Auto adjust the PID of the bed and the extruder
      • Even worse wriggles
    • Tring different PID settings
      • The wriggle pattern changed, but no actual improvement

    After many try and error cycles I finally came to step 26... 


    The solution was: 

    • Exchanging the temperature sensor, Olsson Block, Noozle and this White thermal piece. 
    • So test 26 was successful:
    • IMG_8394.thumb.JPG.1e5c4c3dc4c828f448367a49d2731542.JPG

    Of all four replaced parts, I think it's just because of the PT100 temperature sensor. As I intended to replace the temperature sensor, it wasn't possible to get it out of the Olsson Block. Therefore I replaced all these different parts. 

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