Wall artefacts Cura

[bastiaan86 0]

Hello all,

 

After a lot of testing and trying I now have got the 3d printed train I made already quite good. However there are some wall artefacts that I do not know how to get rid of. The front of the train is tapered from behind the first doors (hence the diagonal lines there) Over the whole length of the train the bottom and top are drawn in a slight corner from just under the windows inwards. I added some pictures to highlight where the lines are visible. It's like infill is shining through however Cura does not show this. The walls are drawn 4 lines thick.

 

 

 

My Quality/Wall settings in Cura:

 

Printer is an Ender 3 nozzle 0.3mm. Thanks a lot for your help!!

[nallath 1,124]

This looks like a case of under extrusion to me.

[P3D 46]

6 minutes ago, nallath said:

This looks like a case of under extrusion to me.

 

Doesn't this look more like the dreaded Zebra stripes? Like in this thread: 

 

[bastiaan86 0]

On 5/16/2019 at 9:35 AM, P3D said:

 

Doesn't this look more like the dreaded Zebra stripes? Like in this thread: 

 

 

Thank you very much. This seems to make sense! Will look further into it. But for what I found so far, this happens on the Ender 3 as well. 

Edited May 17, 2019 by bastiaan86

[bastiaan86 0]

Okay, so I understand the problem is the A4988 drivers. Instead of modifying and possibly destroying the board, would replacing my current board (Ender 3 v1.1.3) with the new v1.1.4 board solve the Zebra stripes issue? The v1.1.4 board has TMC2208 drivers. 

 

Thanks in advance!!

 

Edit: after all I think the modification is not that hard. I'll just bridge the resistors with a little solder. I'll try that first.

Edited May 17, 2019 by bastiaan86

[redslifer 2]

Deselect "infill before walls" in the infill tab. Also disable "compensate wall overlaps".

That worked to me and to everyone I helped with this issue, which are a lot.

[bastiaan86 0]

2 hours ago, redslifer said:

Deselect "infill before walls" in the infill tab. Also disable "compensate wall overlaps".

That worked to me and to everyone I helped with this issue, which are a lot.

Thanks a lot for your suggestions, will try that :) 

[randyinla 14]

Thoughts/experience of the A4988 solder hack:

I recently performed the A4988 hack of shorting out a single resistor on each A4988 chip.  I had one cold solder joint on the 2nd extruder that had to be fixed, but aside from that, my zebra stripes have diminished about 90% of what they were.  Am very happy with the hack.

 

However, and I don't know if these things were happening before the hack or not, but I noticed my X stepper is about 2 to 3 times louder than the Y stepper.  If it were the Y, I'd suspect it was active leveling, but it's the X where active leveling shouldn't be moving the Z at all.  ie.when creating a cube and it's printing the walls, both steppers move the same speed and have the same pitch but X is noticeably louder and can be felt by touching the outside of the U3 or the gantry.  My wall finishes when printing a cube are different.  Front/Back flat surfaces are glossy smooth with some vertical lines (can see them, not feel them) and the Left/Right sides have a sort of pleasant noise pattern, like a tv station tuned to a non-existant channel, looking like sandpaper but still smooth to the touch (love the pattern as it masks any lines and just looks good).  Again, can see that, not feel it.  When I print the cube at 45 degrees, all sides have a similar noisy pattern that I like a lot.  

 

If you don't want to do the solder hack, the TLSmoother boards seems to result in a similar outcome without having to take an iron to the motherboard.  You connect them between the motherboard and the steppers and can remove them at any time.  For now, you can try rotating your model on the print bed to see if the lines go away.  I forget the rotation %.  It's mentioned a few times in the main zebra line thread.  Between 15% & 45%, I believe.

 

If you do attempt the solder hack, I would suggest desoldering the SMD resistors & cleaning the two pads of the old solder.  This will make it much easier to solder a small wire across the two pads.  FYI: If the resistor is gone and the two pads are not shorted, the stepper driver still works but it doesn't send enough voltage to actually turn the stepper motors.  You can barely hear the stepper receiving the steps, but it won't turn.

Edited May 20, 2019 by randyinla

[bastiaan86 0]

Thank you for your message! After all I did not try to hack the board. I have soldering experience but not with SMD boards, it's just too small... After I saw a video on the new updated mainboard for the Ender 3 with TMC2208 drivers, I decided to go for that :)

[randyinla 14]

Was much easier to solder small things when I was younger!  Now, I have to wear reading glasses inside a jewler's magnifyer headset looking through a large round mag-lamp!

[bastiaan86 0]

I installed and tested the v1.1.4 silent board and the zebra stripes are gone :) and also the motors are really quiet now! Really worth the money in my opinion. Thanks again for your help!