Jump to content

randyinla

Member
  • Content Count

    174
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    1

randyinla last won the day on May 5 2017

randyinla had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

10 Good

About randyinla

  • Birthday 08/17/1963

Personal Information

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. No matter the extrusion pressure/amount, if you are just letting the filament come out into air and measuring that, it "should" always be the same width, which I'd imagine is the width of the nozzle. If the extrusion goes up, it'll just come out faster. It's when the line is actually printed onto a surface that the width could be affected. The speed of the hotend movement PLUS extrusion amount/rate will change the width of the line when printed onto something, whether onyo the glass or a previous layer. Pushing a lot of filament out of the nozzle onto a surface but moving the hotend very slowly will make a wider/thicker line than pushing a lot of filament out of the nozzle and moving the hotend very fast. Also, the layer height is a factor. And pushing too much in relation to height and speed of the head can cause it to pool up around the shape of the nozzle, creating a "U" shaped line instead of a flat "_" line when viewed from the line's end.
  2. Was much easier to solder small things when I was younger! Now, I have to wear reading glasses inside a jewler's magnifyer headset looking through a large round mag-lamp!
  3. I believe the U3Ext has the latest firmware. It's currently printing so I can't look it up. Huh! I didn't realize the .6mm ruby print core was "CC". No. I do not have one of those. I currently have both original AA 0.4mm cores. I own two AA 0.8mm's & a BB 0.8mm which have been installed at one time, but not now. I'll try a Cura Connect reset tomorrow and report back.
  4. I didn't see anything in the Cura github issues list that matches this issue. I've noticed this about 4 or 5 times in the last few weeks since upgrading to Cura 4.0. (Side note: I had to turn off auto-slicing due to Cura crashing 5 times a day and it hasn't crashed since) When I'm finished slicing and want to save onto the USB drive, I: Insert the USB drive for my U3Ext into my 2015 MBP running the latest Mojave Get a popup from VMWare Fusion (I run Windows-based Solidworks in a VM) if I want to mount the USB drive in Mac or Windows, I choose Mac Wait for the drive to mount and for the, "Save to external drive" message on the Cura Save button and click it I'll go to Finder and open the external drive to move the file into a folder and notice 5 or 6 Cura log files and some other file I delete those files and eject the USB drive and put it back into the U3Ext These log files should never ever be saved to the external USB drive, correct? They should always get saved to my computer's designated Cura folder, right? Is Cura sometimes using the last used folder instead of using the Cura folder on the computer? The next time this happens, I'll add the file names here and maybe copy/paste the contents if they are small enough.
  5. So many people take this approach to print out small things or tall narrow things (the robot, for example). Seems it would be nice to have an option to calculate a layer's area and have the hot end move off of the print for a few seconds to allow the layer to sufficiently cool. I realize there could be drippage, so not sure if it's a viable solution. The goal would be to gain the advantage of printing multiple things at the same time to force layer cooling without the wasting of filament when printing two of something. A wipe tower where the hotend spends much less time on than a prime tower. Just a simple wipe before moving back over the print. I was attempting a two-color print yesterday on my U3Ext and tried it without a prime tower. The first color dripped a few times but the second color dripped every single time it was pulled up and out of the way. Both were PLA and both had a standby temp of 140c. I had an AA core in both sides, so it wasn't that a BB core was the culprit of the drippage. As for line width... it's been my experience that setting it slightly thinner than my actual nozzle draws out lines a little closer together. The extruding seems to be the same and I get lines that are squished more into one another horizontally. I understand the documentation says that the extrusion is adjusted when the "line width" parameter is adjusted and I've seen people quote gcode showing slightly less or more extrusion. However, in looking at what my printer spits out (I typically print .1mm layers), a line width setting of say 0.385mm always prints lines that touch each other and leaves no gaps. Setting line width to .4mm or above (many 3d slicing articles & threads on the Internet suggest always setting "line width" wider than the nozzle, some suggest as high as 120% of the physical nozzle width) will usually leave gaps between my printed lines. If my part needs to be dimensionally accurate, I'll measure the printed piece and possibly adjust the horizontal expansion and print again until it's exact (though material shrinkage plays a huge part in this as every filament can shrink more or less). But mostly, I just reduce the line width a bit and end up with perfect prints.
  6. My cura 4.0 kept crashing on me. I would load a model and auto-slicing would fire off, sometimes crashing. I would other times load a 2nd or 3rd model onto the same build plate and maybe 60% of the time, it would crash. Since disabling auto-slice just over a week ago, I haven't had a crash since. I, too, noticed that the Slice button remained active after clicking. I am conscious of when I click it now and wait a few seconds before doing anything else.
  7. Am currently at work but I left my U3Ext printing something. Do I have to set anything up from Cura at home or from my U3? I can see a device listed in mycloud, but it's listed as "ultimakersystem-ccbdd3001d5a". The device is "IP Null" and doesn't show anything printing in the current group and nothing queued. I'm still running Cura 4.0 at home and it is currently running on my home laptop.
  8. Thoughts/experience of the A4988 solder hack: I recently performed the A4988 hack of shorting out a single resistor on each A4988 chip. I had one cold solder joint on the 2nd extruder that had to be fixed, but aside from that, my zebra stripes have diminished about 90% of what they were. Am very happy with the hack. However, and I don't know if these things were happening before the hack or not, but I noticed my X stepper is about 2 to 3 times louder than the Y stepper. If it were the Y, I'd suspect it was active leveling, but it's the X where active leveling shouldn't be moving the Z at all. ie.when creating a cube and it's printing the walls, both steppers move the same speed and have the same pitch but X is noticeably louder and can be felt by touching the outside of the U3 or the gantry. My wall finishes when printing a cube are different. Front/Back flat surfaces are glossy smooth with some vertical lines (can see them, not feel them) and the Left/Right sides have a sort of pleasant noise pattern, like a tv station tuned to a non-existant channel, looking like sandpaper but still smooth to the touch (love the pattern as it masks any lines and just looks good). Again, can see that, not feel it. When I print the cube at 45 degrees, all sides have a similar noisy pattern that I like a lot. If you don't want to do the solder hack, the TLSmoother boards seems to result in a similar outcome without having to take an iron to the motherboard. You connect them between the motherboard and the steppers and can remove them at any time. For now, you can try rotating your model on the print bed to see if the lines go away. I forget the rotation %. It's mentioned a few times in the main zebra line thread. Between 15% & 45%, I believe. If you do attempt the solder hack, I would suggest desoldering the SMD resistors & cleaning the two pads of the old solder. This will make it much easier to solder a small wire across the two pads. FYI: If the resistor is gone and the two pads are not shorted, the stepper driver still works but it doesn't send enough voltage to actually turn the stepper motors. You can barely hear the stepper receiving the steps, but it won't turn.
  9. Thank you, Phillip for the wonderful nozzles (AA.25, AA.4, AA.8, BB.4) & heating blocks! I was surprised to see Christmas come so early in the year ๐Ÿ˜ƒ
  10. Fixed it. After taking off the cover and putting on my jeweler's magnifier goggles, I could see from the side that the wire I soldered onto the pads wasn't touching one of the pads. Must have desoldered the SMD resistor as well, I guess. Removed the resistor completely, cleaned the pads and used a different tiny piece of solid wire and made a proper connection. 2nd extruder working fine ๐Ÿ™‚ WHEW! ๐Ÿ˜…
  11. Found the 1548-I Ultimainboard schematic for the U3Ext in the Ultimaker github repo and confirmed that U13 with R103 is the stepper driver for the 2nd extruder.
  12. I performed the stepper driver hack (linked below) to help reduce zebra stripes in my prints the other day and all seemed fine at the time. This morning, I was trying to load filament for the first time since the hack into the 2nd printhead of my U3Ext and the extruder stepper wouldn't turn. If I lean in close to the extruder, I can faintly, barely hear the steps being sent to the stepper. It climbs in pitch and back down again, just as if the extruder were loading the filament but it doesn't spin. Seems the stepper commands are working but the voltage is so low, nothing happens? Is the stepper driver under R103 the one for extruder #2? That was the last short I made over the resistors. Didn't take any longer than the other 4. Looking at the photos I took after, it doesn't appear to be shorting anything else. The SMD resistor didn't move etc. I'll have to revisit it to check if maybe I shorted one of the pads to another. R102 is the one where the SMD resistor fell off. So if any of the steppers was misbehaving, it would kind of make sense it would be that one, though shorting a resistor is the same as shorting two pads with no resistor. Sigh ๐Ÿคจ
  13. When opening up two separate .stl files that are meant to be a single 2-color print, they come in at different locations on the print bed. - Select one and set which printhead will print it - Select the other and set the other printhead to print it - Select both at the same time, right click on one of them and choose to merge them. Cura will slide them perfectly on top of one another and remember which printhead should print which part Edit: I've also noticed that the merged model will sometimes have the Z location changed. Either -Z or put slightly above the build plate. Always check Z position before slicing/printing. You shouldn't ever have to manually move the two prints around, nor would you ever really be able to get them to line up correctly. If you don't have a multi-color capable printer, then this does you no good. It won't pause the print to let you change filament. It's specifically for printers that already support 2-color printing, like the Ultimaker 3 or S5. Hope this clears things up a bit.
  14. Thatโ€™s very nice of you, Philip! If you have paypal or Venmo, I will gladly pay for the nozzle & shipping! Do you happen to also have a BB .04mm? Iโ€™d love to have one as a backup.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Welcome to the Ultimaker Community of 3D printing experts. Visit the following links to read more about our Terms of Use or our Privacy Policy. Thank you!