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randyinla last won the day on May 5 2017

randyinla had the most liked content!

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About randyinla

  • Birthday 08/17/1963

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  1. I used to have this issue when I first started using my U2 a few years ago. My settings evolved over the years and I eventually have come to the point of setting my Line Width to 0.015mm narrower than the nozzle, so .385mm for a .4mm nozzle or .235 for a .25mm nozzle, Wall Thickness between multiples of that (.77 for 2 walls, 1.155 for three etc.) and multiples of the nozzle width (.4, .8 or 1.2 etc.), and I make sure to print hot enough so the walls melt into one another better. I also turn on the Outer before inner walls shell parameter. Since you are only experiencing this on small holes, maybe try playing with the Horizontal Expansion parameter? That allows you to increase/decrease hole sizes while also decreasing/increasing outer dimensions. I imagine increaing the holes this way will have zero effect on the distance between the walls, but it's worth a try. I haven't been able to force a fingernail in between walls for a few years now. Good luck!
  2. randyinla

    water soluble

    I bought a spool of HydroFill from AirWolf3D but have yet to try it out. It was formulated specifically for ABS prints. https://airwolf3d.com/shop/water-soluble-support-3d-print/
  3. I tried setting separate speeds for my 2nd core yesterday (printing text using a different color and smaller nozzle) and noticed it didn't seem to print slower for that material at all. I set it to 15mm/ps for all line types and it screamed through that part of the print just as fast as the other material, which was set to 30mm/ps. Using Cura 4.1 on an U3Ext with the latest firmware from a few days ago.
  4. Here's the print core holder I'm creating. It will screw to the back right side of the U3Ext. The shelf is more a roof to sit above all of the print cores to help keep things from falling into the open shafts. Figured giving it sides was better than just a flat cover so I could have an extra place to put things. So far, my shop magnification glasses fit perfectly. Made a drawer insert with labels for each nozzle that sits directly under where the Solex will live. I'll upload this and my other tool holder models to YouMagine when I'm finished. I re-edited the text using 2.8mm Helvetica and am about to try re-printing the label bar with the 0.25mm Solex in the left core and a regular AA 0.4 in the right. Crossing fingers...
  5. I'd love to be able to see my U3Ext camera remotely. I haven't been able to see it for a while in any app. Not sure when it stopped working because I didn't touch my machine for about 1/2 year and upgraded to 4.0 a few weeks ago and 4.1 yesterday.
  6. That sounds like a printer firmware issue, not a Cura issue. Cura slices your model and sets paths and other params, but I don't think it changes how the machine deals with temp changes during a print.
  7. Same for me. I found multiple materials listed in a file named "custom" and a single material in Cura listed as Custom but just one material. Seems I always lose something; print profile/machine setting or material when upgrading to a new release.
  8. That's awesome, GR5! Thank you! I'll get on this when I get home tonight. I pulled the clear thumb lever off of my AA 0.8 and am using that for now, even though I haven't put the Solex back into the machine yet. The thing I'm trying to model and print out is a print core holder for the side of my U3Ext. I noticed right away the geometry is ever so slightly different on the Solex than the original print cores. Designing a holder that would accept either was challenging and fun. They both easily glide into place in my holder now with a snap. The main differences seem to be that the front to back placement of the nozzle is about .5mm or so closer to the front than the originals. The spring is strong enough to force the nozzle down and into the hole that easily fits the originals, but it was also changing the natural angle of the nozzle, tilting it back a bit. I could see where that could catch when trying to remove them from the machine. I enlarged the hole in my holder a little so it can accomodate both nozzles without altering their natural angle. The other difference is that the front curve is very different. It doesn't matter when inserting into the machine, but I wanted the sides of my holders to match the contours of each type of print core. Had to include a cut that allows the nozzle to slide competely into my holder that is only as wide as the Solex, while allowing the original slope to still be visible when storing one of those. Can upload a rendering later tonight that better explains. Have you experienced weird z height when using the Solex in the 2nd core? I was planning on testing it in the left location with a standard AA 0.4 in the right. As long as the original print core's height works in the right slot, I should be able to print in a smaller font. Do you think the Solex was somehow not moving up/down correctly in slot 2? I thought that might be the case, but it moves up and out of the way when the other nozzle is printing. It just moves down too far (or the bed comes up too far) when it's time for it to print. So it didn't seem like it was catching and not moving up/down correctly. The X/Y calibration was a tad off, +2 & -3. I don't know if the z height is set only from the manual leveling or from the active leveling or some combination of both.
  9. I wanted to see if I could print smaller text in a 2-color print so inserted my new 3D Solex print core with the .25mm Ruby nozzle. No matter how many times I tried manual leveling or ran the active leveler (have it set to run Always), When it came time for the 2nd nozzle to print, it would be about .2mm or .3mm too low, digging into the previous layer, blocking any filament from coming out. It purges the filament correctly and prints onto the prime tower (though, the color is clearly lower than the previous color's primed print), but it's too low to print onto the actual model being printed. This happened with the last & latest U3Ext firmware as well as sliced with Cura 4.0 and then 4.1. (I like the different prime tower behavior in 4.1) I thought it might be active leveling misbehaving, so I turned it off and did a few manual levelings. I even tried lying on the last z check step of the 2nd nozzle by having it at least .7mm above the build plate when it should have been as close as the paper as the 1st nozzle. Nothing made a difference at all in the print height. As soon as I swapped it out and put the original AA 0.4 in place, I had perfect z height on the 2nd nozzle. The 3D Solex top clear thumb clip broke while taking it out. That's another issue I have to get worked out! The guy who sent me a few extra original print core nozzzles he had, mentioned to me that his clear clip had broken as well. Anyway... In the image with the multiple prints, the first four are the 3DSolex runs where the lighter color had dug into the darker previous layer. The last two were printed last and are using the AA 0.4. One with text printed on top of a plain layer, one with the text cut out of the top layer and the text inset into that cutout, both done in Solidworks, not by doing anything tricky in Cura or printing on top of an already printed piece. Does anyone use the 3D Solex as a 2nd nozzle and does the z height work for it?
  10. No matter the extrusion pressure/amount, if you are just letting the filament come out into air and measuring that, it "should" always be the same width, which I'd imagine is the width of the nozzle. If the extrusion goes up, it'll just come out faster. It's when the line is actually printed onto a surface that the width could be affected. The speed of the hotend movement PLUS extrusion amount/rate will change the width of the line when printed onto something, whether onyo the glass or a previous layer. Pushing a lot of filament out of the nozzle onto a surface but moving the hotend very slowly will make a wider/thicker line than pushing a lot of filament out of the nozzle and moving the hotend very fast. Also, the layer height is a factor. And pushing too much in relation to height and speed of the head can cause it to pool up around the shape of the nozzle, creating a "U" shaped line instead of a flat "_" line when viewed from the line's end.
  11. Was much easier to solder small things when I was younger! Now, I have to wear reading glasses inside a jewler's magnifyer headset looking through a large round mag-lamp!
  12. I believe the U3Ext has the latest firmware. It's currently printing so I can't look it up. Huh! I didn't realize the .6mm ruby print core was "CC". No. I do not have one of those. I currently have both original AA 0.4mm cores. I own two AA 0.8mm's & a BB 0.8mm which have been installed at one time, but not now. I'll try a Cura Connect reset tomorrow and report back.
  13. I didn't see anything in the Cura github issues list that matches this issue. I've noticed this about 4 or 5 times in the last few weeks since upgrading to Cura 4.0. (Side note: I had to turn off auto-slicing due to Cura crashing 5 times a day and it hasn't crashed since) When I'm finished slicing and want to save onto the USB drive, I: Insert the USB drive for my U3Ext into my 2015 MBP running the latest Mojave Get a popup from VMWare Fusion (I run Windows-based Solidworks in a VM) if I want to mount the USB drive in Mac or Windows, I choose Mac Wait for the drive to mount and for the, "Save to external drive" message on the Cura Save button and click it I'll go to Finder and open the external drive to move the file into a folder and notice 5 or 6 Cura log files and some other file I delete those files and eject the USB drive and put it back into the U3Ext These log files should never ever be saved to the external USB drive, correct? They should always get saved to my computer's designated Cura folder, right? Is Cura sometimes using the last used folder instead of using the Cura folder on the computer? The next time this happens, I'll add the file names here and maybe copy/paste the contents if they are small enough.
  14. So many people take this approach to print out small things or tall narrow things (the robot, for example). Seems it would be nice to have an option to calculate a layer's area and have the hot end move off of the print for a few seconds to allow the layer to sufficiently cool. I realize there could be drippage, so not sure if it's a viable solution. The goal would be to gain the advantage of printing multiple things at the same time to force layer cooling without the wasting of filament when printing two of something. A wipe tower where the hotend spends much less time on than a prime tower. Just a simple wipe before moving back over the print. I was attempting a two-color print yesterday on my U3Ext and tried it without a prime tower. The first color dripped a few times but the second color dripped every single time it was pulled up and out of the way. Both were PLA and both had a standby temp of 140c. I had an AA core in both sides, so it wasn't that a BB core was the culprit of the drippage. As for line width... it's been my experience that setting it slightly thinner than my actual nozzle draws out lines a little closer together. The extruding seems to be the same and I get lines that are squished more into one another horizontally. I understand the documentation says that the extrusion is adjusted when the "line width" parameter is adjusted and I've seen people quote gcode showing slightly less or more extrusion. However, in looking at what my printer spits out (I typically print .1mm layers), a line width setting of say 0.385mm always prints lines that touch each other and leaves no gaps. Setting line width to .4mm or above (many 3d slicing articles & threads on the Internet suggest always setting "line width" wider than the nozzle, some suggest as high as 120% of the physical nozzle width) will usually leave gaps between my printed lines. If my part needs to be dimensionally accurate, I'll measure the printed piece and possibly adjust the horizontal expansion and print again until it's exact (though material shrinkage plays a huge part in this as every filament can shrink more or less). But mostly, I just reduce the line width a bit and end up with perfect prints.
  15. My cura 4.0 kept crashing on me. I would load a model and auto-slicing would fire off, sometimes crashing. I would other times load a 2nd or 3rd model onto the same build plate and maybe 60% of the time, it would crash. Since disabling auto-slice just over a week ago, I haven't had a crash since. I, too, noticed that the Slice button remained active after clicking. I am conscious of when I click it now and wait a few seconds before doing anything else.
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