First Post - Ultimaker 2+ Extended Issues and attempted fixes

[Scribbler 0]

Hi new to the forum, 

 

I have an Ultimaker 2+ extended which has been faultless for about 1 & 1/2 years

However i let someone else use it and they loaded some filament and forgot about

it so it backed up and created a huge ball of filament on the end of the nozzle.

I tried various cleaning methods but the Knurled wheel at the back had ground through 

the filament and was unable to get it working again. I Purchased a hot end kit so Olsen block

ptfe bush spring etc it came with removable nozzles which im not sure which size to use the original

was part of the block. I also replaced the stepper motor which i had to cut the connector off

the old one and solder onto the new wires. Everything was hooked up ready to go but now when i try to load 

the filament it smacks the filament into the Olsen block at speed makes a screeching noise and the knurled

wheel grinds a groove in the filament. When its printing the knurled wheel is slipping on the filament and then

occasionally it will 'back wind' and retract slightly and then go forward again (still slipping).

 

Can anyone with a greater understanding of this equipment give me an idea of whats happening and what

i need to do to get this working again. I don't mind spending a bit of money on it but i just need to get it 

working again. It doesn't seam like its that far off just can't get it to feed correctly.

 

My understanding is the Knurled wheel should grip the filament and not skip or slip and should be a smooth

gradual rotation. 

 

Regards

 

Scribbler

[gr5 2,194]

Sorry man!  So many issues.

 

You didn't have to cut/solder the wires but oh well.  There is a clip you bend a little and then the connector slides off.  Anyway...

 

First and foremost load the firmware.  The newer stepper/gearbox has a different steps/mm.  if you *did* load the new firmware and it's still loading the filament too far (or too fast) then on the printer do a "FACTORY RESET" which will set everything (including steps/mm) to default.  But hopefully you won't have to do that as if you do then you have to do some other unnecessary things (it will guide you).

 

You did not need to modify your printer.  You could have just removed the bowden on both ends to get the filament out.

 

The ball of filament at the end could have been heated up with a heat gun (and the nozzle).

 

The UM2 (non plus) comes with a 0.4mm nozzle.  But I love the other nozzles and use all 4 sizes.  The 0.8mm nozzle prints 4X faster - particularly useful for parts larger than my fist.  The 0.25 prints stunning accuracy - particularly useful for parts smaller than a grape.  Just make sure the "line width" matches the nozzle size (which cura are you using - cura 14.X or 15.X is fine - if you are happy with cura 14.X then you'll hate cura 4.X but in those older cura it's called nozzle size I think).

 

 

 

 

 

[gr5 2,194]

Also print one of these:

https://www.youmagine.com/designs/wedgebot-for-ultimaker2

 

And stop letting the printer load and unload filament.  Just slide it in and out using wedgebot.

[Scribbler 0]

Thanks for the quick reply, I have reset factory defaults as a precaution but will now have a go at updating the firmware to see if that fixes the issue. 

 

I did have to cut and solder the 4 wires on the motor it was hard wired into the motor the white plastic bit didn't unclip.

and the ends were just loose. I used a drill to rewind them in pairs as per the original colour combo though and put them back through the ferrite core.

 

I did heat up the nozzle to remove the blob of filament and got it clear but the brass block was all discoloured and burnt looking, the old stepper motor was just skipping all the time causing future blockages which is why i decided to change both. The white ptfe bit had gone a bit cloudy on the end also so i thought it needed changing. I don't understand how the nozzles can be interchangeable when i heat it to 210 deg. It just pours out the end of the nozzle if its above 0.4

 

Regards

 

Scribbler

 

 

 

 

[gr5 2,194]

Well all the nozzles leak if you aren't printing but the nozzle is hot.

 

If you print something, it's fine.

 

[tinkergnome 927]

17 hours ago, Scribbler said:

I did have to cut and solder the 4 wires on the motor it was hard wired into the motor the white plastic bit didn't unclip.

and the ends were just loose.

 

This part sounds a bit weird. Replacement stepper motors from Ultimaker are pre-wired with cables in the correct length and connectors.

What kind of motor have you installed? Are you sure that is has the same specifications as the original one? If not, it would explain the wrong feeding speed.

Can you share some pictures of your printer and repairs? Pictures often help a lot.

 

[Scribbler 0]

The motor was off ebay, and the hot end kit but the serial number matched perfectly.

Links below

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SY42STH47-1684A-High-Torque-Hybrid-Stepper-Motors/222732403671?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/For-Ultimaker2-Nozzle-Heater-Block-Cleaning-Needles-Sharp-nosed-scorpion-UK/143427750276?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

 

If i need a genuine Ultimaker stepper motor does anyone have the link?

 

 

Edited December 25, 2019 by Scribbler

[gr5 2,194]

Oh.  Well I recommend you install tinker firmware then as that lets you adjust the steps/mm.  You can get it here:

https://github.com/TinkerGnome/Ultimaker2Marlin/releases/tag/V19.03.1

 

Download the Um2+ one (5th link from the bottom).

 

After that you can just calibrate it yourself - very easy - just insert the filament part way into the bowden and use "move material" to move it exactly 100mm and measure with a ruler how far it moved.  If for example it moved 10% too far then reduce the steps/mm on E axis by 10%.

 

The tinker firmware is better than the ultimaker version of Marlin and has tons of very nice features like "continue failed print" and in your case ability to adjust steps/mm for all axes.

[gr5 2,194]

Those chinese nozzle might leak - the length of the hole in the nozzle may be too short and not have enough friction and thus leak too much.  But stick with what you have for now.  But you can get good quality nozzles from 3dsolex or e3dv6 (e3dv6 is in england).  e3dv6 will be compatible with that olsson block kit you bought.

[Scribbler 0]

thanks for the above. Im not really into tinkering to be honest im more of a fit and forget type as long as its working,

Do you have a link  to a genuine feed motor if the one i fitted isn't correct and the original nozzle. I like OEM parts rather than aftermarket i just couldn't find them when i was looking. Well not for a reasonable price anyway.

 

Regards

 

Scribbler

[Scribbler 0]

P.S. on the tinker firmware you said 5th from the bottom but my printer is UM2+ Extended so should i get the 5th from the top?

[tinkergnome 927]

@Scribbler just to be sure:

Some of your comments are suggesting that we are talking about a normal UM2 with retrofitted Olsson block, and not about the "plus" model. Can you confirm that your printer is equipped with the new (geared) feeder - as shown here in the video (white casing)?

If your printer is equipped with the former (black) feeder, it is indeed the wrong motor - and would explain your issues.

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Scribbler 0]

Having had another look it does look like its the UM2 extended and not the plus see pictures below.

Thanks for clarifying.

 

So based on this information what do i need to replace to get this working again or should i buy parts to

upgrade?  The motor i purchased had the same serial /part number as the one i removed. 

 

Regards

 

Scribbler

 

[tinkergnome 927]

Great - we are getting closer... 🙂

 

The UM2 uses a motor with 400 steps/rev (0.9 degree per step) for the feeder.

From your ebay example you would need the model ...-1684MA (the "M" is important)

 

Every Ultimaker reseller should be able to order the genuine spare part for you. Resellers usually don't offer all spare parts in a webshop, just ask per email or give them a call.

 

fbrc8 (the US manufacturer) is a notable exception:

https://fbrc8.com/collections/ultimaker-2-spare-parts/products/feeder-motor

 

Ultimaker part number is 1179

(You can take a look at the part list here: https://github.com/Ultimaker/Ultimaker2/tree/master/_BOM)

 

[Scribbler 0]

Thank you very much Tinkergnome, i will look into getting this.

What about the Hot end kit i included a link for. Should i replace this also or is the new one

i ordered ok?

 

Is it possible to upgrade the Black filament mechanism to the newer White version of the Plus model,

I assume this is an improved system or should i just stick with the black standard. After all its the Knurled 

wheel slipping on the Filament thats most of the problem.

 

Regards

 

Scribbler

[Scribbler 0]

I have spoken to the very helpful staff at Zapp automation where i got the motor from and they have advised that very few people stock the 0.9deg. This is the only difference in the motor i purchased which is 1.8deg.

They suggested that the problem could be overcome by doubling the resolution or micro-stepping in the software.

They used the example" if its set to 5 steps then double to 10 steps". Unfortunately i am unsure how to do this. 

 

I think this is what gr5 was describing in the earlier posts. Does anyone know where in the software i can change these values.

 

Regards

 

Scribbler

 

 

Edited January 3, 2020 by Scribbler

[tinkergnome 927]

5 hours ago, Scribbler said:

They suggested that the problem could be overcome by doubling the resolution or micro-stepping in the software.

 

micro-stepping (on the UM2) can not be changed with software - it's either hard-wired on the electronics board or inside the stepper drivers (dunno).

 

You can cut the steps/mm in half of course (141 instead of 282), but this reduces the usable resolution for the e-axis - and will probably affect the print quality. 🤷‍♂️

 

 

BTW: is the linear bearing correct seated in the printhead? It should not protrude IMHO.

 

[Scribbler 0]

4 minutes ago, tinkergnome said:

 

micro-stepping (on the UM2) can not be changed with software - it's

 

He said its usually in the software or could be a jumper setting on the board.

I didn't see any jumpers or dip switches on the board when i fitted the new 

motor so i guess i need a new motor, although finding an 1684MA model in 

the UK is proving difficult. I will check the bearing, that hole plastic assembly did

come apart when fitting the hot end and a loose piece of black plastic fell out 

and i couldn't find where it wents so maybe this was to retain the bearing.

Ahhhh the joys of 3D printing. 

 

Regards

 

Scribbler

 

 

 

[Scribbler 0]

Update for those who have previously commented and anyone else interested.

Thanks for advice by the way!

 

I finally managed to get hold of the correct genuine Motor from https://3dgbire.com/

very helpful and not too bad price. I decided to keep the olsen block and downloaded the latest

cura software which allows you to choose the printer and it even has an option for 

Ultimaker 2 Extended olsen block. so i chose that one. Its set for 0.4 Nozzle so this is what 

i used. It loaded the filament ok and printed a couple of test prints. See below a turtle that 

i printed for my daughter. It was a bit hit and miss though. Im not getting very good adhesion

on the glass build plate so a couple of times i had to abort the print as it started dragging the 

raft around with the head.  Also i can hear that the feed motor is still occasionally skipping. Well

not slipping but makes a noise and the Knurled wheel rotates approximatly 1/3 of a turn 

the wrong way dragging the filament back and then starts feeding as normal again. Its

as if its torque sensing some resistance and then back winding to reduce the pressure.

Is this behaviour normal? should i be worried. Im thinking of selling the printer, its a shame

because i don't think there is anything fundamentally wrong with it, Im just paranoid now

and don't have the time to experiment with the settings.

[Scribbler 0]

Anyone? is the occasional backwards rotation on the feed motor normal?