You also should try a flex shaft coupler like these ones for the direct-drive upgrade. For instance this one: http://openbuildspartstore.com/5mm-8mm-flexible-coupling/ (I don't know anything about this shop).
The biggest advantage over the standard UM one is the clamping system. This will help you to improve your print quality for just a few €/$.
Besides this I really like the surface quality which KISSlicer produces.
I agree with amano... I think to make the z axis more flexibel is the better strategy... at least for the bearings inside the z motor...
I just replaced the rigid coupling of my Ultimaker with a flexible one and I don't regret it...
found one on ebay, ordered, waiting.
every little bit could make my UM better.
not expensive (5$), maybe should be in the UM kit from the start...
You mean you put in the flex coupler and the leadscrew stops wobbling?
I have the problem that, when I print really high prints (which I don't to because of the problem), the slider block actually collides with the leadscrew because the screw leans forward that much. I noticed that while assembling the UM, when I moved the Z-stage by hand...
You mean you put in the flex coupler and the leadscrew stops wobbling?
I have the problem that, when I print really high prints (which I don't to because of the problem), the slider block actually collides with the leadscrew because the screw leans forward that much. I noticed that while assembling the UM, when I moved the Z-stage by hand...
The flex coupling certainly doesn't stop the z axis from moving in x-direction for different z. But it reduces the tension which is induced by this x/y-movement onto the bearings, the whole z stage and the z rails. The results should be less wobbling in your print.
The collision issue is caused by the positioning of the brass nut. I have the same issue but it just works. Therefore I think it's not a construction fault but something that requires some mechanical tuning...
I haven' yet tried to enhance my z-accuracy so forgive me if i bring up a topic that was already there but could a ballscrew be of any use? As far as I know they are really expensive (around 80€ for a 8mm one in our size) but much more accurate than leadscrews (and they have 30% less friction, but i don't think that this is of any use in the slow-moving z-stage).
I don't see how this would improve things. One thing that might improve the overall stability/accuracy, is adding rods with linear bearings in the front of the machine. This would increase the rigidity of the Z-stage.
I think the reason why this is not implemented in the UM1 by default is that it is simply not necessary (the UM1 already prints pretty well in standard configuration). But it might improve things a little. Also, it might help with particularly heavy build plates like basalt or massive aluminum heatbeds.
Also the wood could be changed. If someone has access to a cnc-mill then he/she could make the z-table out of more rigid material as the wood "can change by 0.5mm by just tipping it"....
In the Reprap community many have changed from M8 to M5 on the z-axis. The M5 is not rigid enough to "over rule" the smoothrods. They also use flexible z-couplngs and add flex in the Z-axis motor mount....
On the BFB Touch they use arms to hold the moving z-platform, but the arms from the lead screws are not constrained in x-y on the platform to avoid z-wobble.
Johan
I just found out the flexible coupling for the z stage has a serious catch:
see http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/3527-z-stage-hangs/
What's the catch? I'm building an ultimaker and I'm having trouble choosing the right lead screw
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jonnybischof 60
I'll try this one out, thanks!
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