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hassan-mabrook

I need to help adjust print quality ,,, please .

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Hi

I'm new with 3d printer

I have a problem in quality

I've used printing according to these settings

http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/1872-some-calibration-photographs/

I suffered from this problem since getting UM2

With all plans , even with the factory default settings

 

Used PLA

 

original thing :

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:88849

 

My bad thing :

c98AG.jpg

 

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My um2 came default settings for PLA retraction to use 2.5mm. That's not enough. Change that to at least 4.5mm. Someone with a UM2 suggested even more - I think maybe 5.5mm but whatever your retraction is, increase it slightly.

190C and 20mm is very smart. This is a good setting.

DO NOT use "default" settings or easy print settings or whatever they are called. Only use expert mode and make sure "retraction" is enabled. Also set the other retraction parameters in expert settings to 0. So minimum extrusion should be 0. Minimum travel should be 0. Otherwise it won't retract at al. Even a minimum extrusion of .1mm translates to 4.9mm of movement if your layer height is .1mm and some of your extrusions for this bracelet look smaller than 5mm. So set these to zero!!!

 

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Hassan!

Moderator is right!

In Cura, in advanced settings, like he says is right!

In UM2, Maintenance, Advanced, Retraction, set it to 4.5mm or 5mm.

Next thing, print at 75 speed.

Update: General rule, slower print=better result. BUT: if you print very slowly, combined with high temperature and high Material flow, then it will ooze.. string,,,

Thanks, gr5.

IMPORTANT: You can set the speed right after the print starts.

So, after the print starts, press advanced settings and set speed 75, temp 195, bed 210, M(aterial)100. There is a speed setting in Cura as well wich is "basis speed". The speed set in UM2 is a multiplier.

There are 2 more possibilites for your stringing:

1. The filament is broken inside the Bowden tube (happened to me, can easily happen), which will

make it NOT RETRACT until you have consumed the broken part in the "front", close to the nozzle.

Retraction is the activity of spooling the filament 5mm backwards when moving the head to a new location (happens very quickly, and frequently).. so the filament will not ooze during a short move. IF the filament has a break inside the tube it will not be retracted, only the "unbroken part" connected to the spool will move back.

Second cause: Too slow printing speed, too much material feed (but needs to be way off) if You print at 25 and M is at 100, it could be a problem.

Suggest print at 75 speed, Temp 195, heating bed 65. check if filament is broken inside tube by looking very carefully.

The break could already be inside the extruder assembly and so not visible to you, but will eventually "print out", and then the one-piece filament will retract correctly and you will have less or no stringing..

Lets hear how it went?

Thanks

 

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Suggest print at 75 speed,

 

Normally 75mm/sec speed is fine but if you want to reduce stringing it helps to print slower (20mm/sec) because there is less pressure in the nozzle. You probably can print this at 75 but I would try 20mm/sec first.

Also heat is your enemy for stringing so if you can print on a cold bed instead of heated bed and print on blue tape instead of glass that will also help but I think that you will be okay with a heated bed.

 

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gr5 I not understand , I'm new with 3d printer

 

In Cura - make sure retraction is enabled ALWAYS. Must set blue circled things to 0

retraction1 copy

retraction2

 

On ultimaker, set retraction to higher value than 4.5. I don't know what value to use as I am still new to UM2. There are 2 ways to do this - you can modify the PLA settings permanently or you can just modify for one print. Here is how to do it for one print:

 

DSC 6421

DSC 6422

DSC 6423

 

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I can't see the pictures you posted. Also, did you read my previous post? Did you change all those settings in my previous post?

Eliminating stringing is tricky but possible. The key is to keep everything as cold as possible and make sure retraction is working. Look at the extruder motor. Learn to hear the sound of retraction. Then make sure it retracts every time and watch the filament at the top of the tube. It should go from the top of the tube to the bottom but no farther! This halts the pressure in the nozzle.

Also some filaments work better than others. I have found white to be difficult but I have still gotten white PLA to work.

 

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I see you have retraction on now. Good. But I can't see much else. How did the object come out? Any better? A tiny bit better?

Check out this test I did:

http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/1872-some-calibration-photographs/

That was 20mm/sec. Every PLA color and brand is different. What was your speed?

 

There are no improvement

 

 

I was bored of not being able to get what you paid for the financial futures

 

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I can't read the values in the screenshots. The image is too small and when I zoom in it is all blurry.

75% of speed doesn't really mean anything, if we don't know the speed in mm/s.

I would recommend to leave the heated bed off, put some tape down.

Enable retraction, print slow (about 20mm/s), 190°C. If you still get stringing, try 180°C.

I am looking forward seeing some more detailed pictures, thanks!

 

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Lets check feed:

The filament visible through the feeding tube should have a regular thin pattern of

"teeth", from the feeding mechanism.

We are assuming that the spool can unwind unrestricted.

Start by printing a much smaller and simpler object, like for instance

The Waterpump :

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:16145/#files

In Cura, put speed at 50. Quality at 0.2 (this will still print very beautifully when your settings are right)

Coose Expert, Open Expert settings, Set retraction minimum And miminal to "0", check ENABLE ON.

Choose Expert, Switch to Full settings, Layer height 0.2, shell 0.8, Enable ON, Support type NONE, Platform adhesion Brim.

In UM2 print at speed 70-80-90-100. Temperature 180-190-200-210-220

This will give you 20 prints. As they come out, mark them with proof marker which settings they "have",

or you will mess up later.

Keep Material at 100 and Build bed at 60, for all these tests.

This is going to take 3 hours all together, and you will get the feel of it after you are finished.

Then print your complicated thing with the best settings.

You will then get some stringing.

Work on the stringing by reducing temperature 5C at the time. You can also change speed..

so.. another matrix of tests needed. You will then be expert.

You can not avoid "micro-strings", smaller than size of human hair, but these are easy to remove.

Remember, most models shown on the web have a fair amount of post-processing, using a little sharp

knife, etc. Expect to spend 1-10 minutes on your complicated model.

By adjustments alone, you will be able to print the waterpump 99% perfectly, with no post-processing!

When you post screen shots, we must have much higher resolution, its impossible to read...

Nobody here can give you exact settings, we dont know your settings, temperature, material, even table...a too wobbly base for your printer will produce oval holes.. etc..

Lets hear how it goes..

 

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