Jump to content
Ultimaker Community of 3D Printing Experts

Need help calibrating 3d printers steps per milimeter


Zerphan
 Share

Recommended Posts

Posted · Need help calibrating 3d printers steps per milimeter

I have a Cheap chinise CTC prusa i3(https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000238153166.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.279a4c4dUEIbmR) with a anet 1.5 board which i have just flashed with optiboot and the latest marlin firmware but I am unable to work out the steps per mm. I have a 2 mm pitch on the belt and 20 teeth on the driver cogs. Can anyone help

  • Link to post
    Share on other sites

    Posted · Need help calibrating 3d printers steps per milimeter

    Just tell it to move 10mm and measure how far it moves.  Figure out the ratio (actual distance / desired distance) and multiply that ratio by the current steps/mm.  In other words if it moves 10% too far than increase steps/mm by 10%.

     

    Then repeat but with the longest distance that is reasonable for more accuracy.

  • Link to post
    Share on other sites

    Posted · Need help calibrating 3d printers steps per milimeter
    7 hours ago, Zerphan said:

    I am unable to work out the steps per mm

     

    Calculating the theoretical value (as a starting point) is fairly easy, but you need the (micro-)steps/rev of the stepper motor as well.

    Simply compute the quotient of steps/rev of the motor and mm/rev of the pulley (20*2mm in your case).

     

    For a common 1.8° stepper motor and 1/16 micro-stepping this would be: (200*16)/(20*2)

    (assuming that all pulleys are of the same size).

     

    There are online calculators for the lazy ones... 🙂

    https://blog.prusaprinters.org/calculator_3416/#steppermotors

  • Link to post
    Share on other sites

    Posted · Need help calibrating 3d printers steps per milimeter

    You need something more accurate that a ruler to perform the measurements.  A vernier caliper works well.

    I think that not enough people pay attention to the frame of the machine.  Everything needs to be square and parallel.  A carpenters tri-square comes in handy.  If (for example) the X beam is at a slight angle then your prints will be off no matter how well the steps are calibrated.  Or if the two upright beams aren't parallel then the part will twist as it gets taller.

    After the machine gets a few hours on it you will want to re-visit the calibration again as things loosen up.

     

  • Link to post
    Share on other sites

    Create an account or sign in to comment

    You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

    Create an account

    Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

    Register a new account

    Sign in

    Already have an account? Sign in here.

    Sign In Now
     Share

    • Our picks

      • Ultimaker showcase | April 2022 | 4pm CEST | 10am EDT
        I'm excited because I've personally produced this showcase event, so if you are curious what else I'm up to nowadays, come check it out and say hi in the chat! It would mean a lot! 
          • Thanks
          • Like
        • 4 replies
      • New here? Get ahead with a free onboarding course
        Hi,
         
        Often getting started is the most difficult part of any process. A good start sets you up for success and saves you time and energy that could be spent elsewhere. That is why we have a onboarding course ready for
        Ultimaker S5 Pro Bundle, Ultimaker S5, Ultimaker S3 Ultimaker 2+ Connect.   
        They're ready for you on the Ultimaker Academy platform. All you need to do to gain access is to register your product to gain free access. 
        Ready? Register your product here in just 60 seconds.
          • Like
        • 11 replies
    ×
    ×
    • Create New...