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Ultimaker 2 extended print lifting on tape?

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Posted · Ultimaker 2 extended print lifting on tape?

Hi all.

 

i seem to have issues with my print lifting on the tape.  It’s PLA plate temp is 60 oC and the print head is at 200 oC.  As you can see from the photo’s the print looks good.  But it’s lifting for some reason?

 

can anyone assist.

 

Regards

 

Paul

8F24E6D2-7206-47AC-A9AD-744517916E5D.jpeg

C972A83D-7658-4E0B-9F29-823C3D16EEF2.jpeg

556E46E0-8C60-42DD-BF64-5D39F483CA72.jpeg

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Posted · Ultimaker 2 extended print lifting on tape?

Hi Paul,

 

When using blue tape we do not use heat bed, cause the glue on the tape will not stick at high temperature.

Just turn of the heat bed and it will be fine.

 

Thanks

 

Torgeir

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Posted · Ultimaker 2 extended print lifting on tape?

Hi,

To be honest with PLA and a glass heated bed you should not need any blue tape at all, if anything you are making it less likely to stick. Just rub some PVA glue on the glass in a thin even layer, or use one of the many sprays you can get like 3D Lac what i personally use.

 

Long as you have got your bed level right and first layer settings right, you will not have any problems at all.

 

If there any reason why you have picked to put blue tape on the glass?

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Posted · Ultimaker 2 extended print lifting on tape?

Hi all

 

After a bit of YouTubing, I tried sticking more blue tap round the base.  This did help but then after laying the first couple of layers down I turned the plate heat down from 60 oC to 20 oC.  Seems to be looking better, all noted about having no plate heat and not too use blue tape for PLA. 
 

Thanks once again for the help, as you can tell I am very new to 3D printing.

 

 

Regards

 

 

Paul

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Posted · Ultimaker 2 extended print lifting on tape?
7 hours ago, Carla_Birch said:

Hi,

To be honest with PLA and a glass heated bed you should not need any blue tape at all, if anything you are making it less likely to stick. Just rub some PVA glue on the glass in a thin even layer, or use one of the many sprays you can get like 3D Lac what i personally use.

 

Long as you have got your bed level right and first layer settings right, you will not have any problems at all.

 

If there any reason why you have picked to put blue tape on the glass?

Hi 

 

well I have turned table heat off and just used a Pritt-stick for adhesion.  The quality of print looks good.  But the item has lifted on one side.

 

What could I do to try and fix this.  See attached photos.

 

Regards

 

 

Paul 

B1B4E802-1942-417F-96C0-489014314BD9.jpeg

0F9CAA85-23FE-47B9-8700-B358297A522A.jpeg

5FC8EB2F-BB83-4426-825A-9CC201E79979.jpeg

21C0B55C-4E99-4C56-8590-88FABD340D50.jpeg

2ED6E863-E464-445B-B4F3-A9A5075A49FE.jpeg

7F64AE10-EDA9-42DB-A63B-2D29156F950E.jpeg

CD813E8E-572C-4D8C-B0DC-E208612495EC.jpeg

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Posted (edited) · Ultimaker 2 extended print lifting on tape?

I don’t personally use glue sticks but I know most that do rub lines across the print area and then use a damp rag to make a thin even layer of the glue across the print area.

 

Without seeing the print settings it’s hard to say as you want to keep the heated bed on still at around 50-60c and then the first layer height should be bigger than the rest.

 

outside of the settings the other factors for printers without auto levelling is to make sure the build plate is level and that the right gap between it and the nozzle is set.

 

but the fact you have the headed bed off is likely the main factor, so set it back to 60c even more so with long and flat parts

Edited by Carla_Birch

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Posted · Ultimaker 2 extended print lifting on tape?

Hi Paul,

 

I've got the same printer as you have. When I'm using blue tape it is; when I'll print small object with overhang close to print bed.

If I do use heat bed on, my small prints will have "melting" marks where the sides is overhanging the bed, this is the only time I'm using tape when printing PLA. There might be other brand of filament where you are advised to use tape or other glues/additives for the heat bed.

But the best for your print here is just to have a very clean glass plate. Just wash it in hot water (so you just can "hand wash") and using a mild hand soap. When you fingers stick where ever you touch and not "slip", it is clean, now just clean with some more hot water then you're done. Just use a clean cotton rag for removing the water.

For the height adjustment I'm using an ATM note, the thermal one. Those are kind of thin, but will work very well. Just make sure you just "can feel very light" contact between the nozzle and the glass plate at the tree adjustment point. If you think your adjustment does not go well, -just do another one until it feel it is right.

When you got this thing tuned in for PLA, you never look back again.

Also, the full brim you're using would not be be needed you'll only use skirt.

We would also use to mark the glass plate, I.E. left front corner with: "Up". This can be handy as those glass plates might not be as good as needed on both sides.

 

Good Luck

 

Torgeir 

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Posted · Ultimaker 2 extended print lifting on tape?
13 hours ago, Carla_Birch said:

I don’t personally use glue sticks but I know most that do rub lines across the print area and then use a damp rag to make a thin even layer of the glue across the print area.

 

Without seeing the print settings it’s hard to say as you want to keep the heated bed on still at around 50-60c and then the first layer height should be bigger than the rest.

 

outside of the settings the other factors for printers without auto levelling is to make sure the build plate is level and that the right gap between it and the nozzle is set.

 

but the fact you have the headed bed off is likely the main factor, so set it back to 60c even more so with long and flat parts

Hi

 

So I’ll try with same type of PrittStick and have plate heat on at 50 oC throughout the print.  I’d that correct? I have checked the plate settings plus use a thin receipt as a adjust guide.

 

Regards

 

Paul

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Posted (edited) · Ultimaker 2 extended print lifting on tape?

Hi,

Yes the heated bed should be in the range of 50c to 60c it really helps out. 

Edited by Carla_Birch

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Posted (edited) · Ultimaker 2 extended print lifting on tape?

Hi Paul,

 

Just forgot to mention that I'm using a permanent (black "color") white board pen as a marker for the glass plate.

Also, the PVA glue we use is diluted in water to (1 to (12-18)) ish. parts, here glue is 1 parts and water is between 12 to 18 parts.

Will looks like water is slightly contaminated with some stuff. 🙂

You can hardly see the additive when dried.  Using glue with PLA like this can sometimes be Very hard to remove.

So do some practice, without glue and you'll soon master it!

You may try to print smaller objects in order to get more feeling of how this works.

 

Anyway,

Good luck and have fun

 

Torgeir

 

 

 

Edited by Torgeir
More proper text.

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Posted · Ultimaker 2 extended print lifting on tape?

To me it looks like you used a bit too much glue stick. Only use a little bit, and then spread and wipe it smooth with a wet tissue.

 

For printing PLA, I do not use any glue at all, nor any blue tape. After thoroughly cleaning the glass, and then cleaning again with warm tap water only (no soap, no detergents), I wipe the glass with a tissue moistened with salt water. I gently keep wiping until it dries in a thin mist of salt stuck to the glass, almost invisible. My "salt method". See here for an old manual:

https://www.uantwerpen.be/nl/personeel/geert-keteleer/manuals/

 

For me, this salt method greatly improves bonding compared to printing on bare glass, when the glass is hot (60°C). When cold, there is no bonding at all, nothing, so the models come off by themself. No need to take the glass out of the printer. Then, for the next print, I wipe the glass again.

 

This works very well for my low, flat, long models. But it is not recommended for thin, high models like lantern poles: they may come off.

 

Other people use the glue stick (and wipe with a wet tissue afterwards), dilluted wood glue, hairspray, 3D-LAC, or similar. Try on a small test part what works best for you. And in the beginning, stay with the printer, and keep watching what happens. Until you have a method that works flawlessly for your prints and materials.

 

A test-model to try-out bonding to the glass. These inverted prisms are a very hard test. If a bonding method works for this, it is likely to work for most other models too. Note the salt on the glass: this is a bit too much, less would be better.

inverted_pyramid.thumb.jpg.c3c49b00905b923abd3f6e8f02b77847.jpg

 

My salt method works well for such long flat models, but not so good for high models like lantern poles.

ostroncp_v20170104c.thumb.jpg.6dae46fd9b48b292823335415abefbf4.jpg

 

 

Bottom of a test prism. Some corners lifted, but it still could be completed.

DSCN4889.thumb.JPG.73f000e965b9b6fb6dd8cf9087767853.JPG

 

 

 

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