**WARNING** Tronxy x5sa damaged UNSAFE STOCK SETTINGS DAMAGE PRINTER**

[tyme 0]

Today I wanted to print via USB because I broke my SD card, so I downloaded the Ultimatker Cura software. I set up the software through the painful software of using the forced wizard and chose my appropriate printer from the list, Tronxy x5sa. After doing so I went to the monitor tab in the software to test communication, I pressed the home button, the stepper motors activated and moved the build plate towards the print head, I was excited it was working!

 

It was moving fairly quickly and approached the head within a second, to my dismay it continued to rise impacting the head creating a horrible gear grinding noise, bent the top gantry, misaligned the z axis and threw the level completely out of wack. There was no way to stop it and it continued this horrid noise for 10 seconds or more. After it finally stopped I reset everything, realigned the print head on the gantry and loaded a gcode that I know works from SD card. I printed it from USB and again it shoved the print bed into the print head then tried to print. It gouged my print bed beyond repair and will now have to be replaced. All in all this software is UNSAFE to use stock settings with the Tronxy. The settings need to be removed or corrected so that unsuspecting users don't damage their printer as I did. 

 

If anyone can attach the correct settings to use the Tronxy it would be much appreciated. Until then I found a backup SD card and will continue to use Slic3r which I know is safe. What a horrible experience.

[Longtoke 19]

While I get you're upset at your printer being damaged, you've incorrectly and unfairly attributed it to Cura...

 

Firstly, the Tronxy you mention is a DIY kit printer, that takes some experience to correctly assemble, while having several design flaws that leave the door open to all sorts of issues.

 

To quote one of the reviews I've just endured "My testing, however, was a long and frustrating experience due to a range of poor design decisions on this printer."

 

And another quote "I think with a total overhaul by an experienced owner, this thing could really shine. It’s just that the way it works out of the box leaves a lot to be desired".

 

While these issues may not be directly associated to the issue you have, it forms a continuing pattern with the printer in general. The manufacturers of the Tronxy package a butchered early version of Cura with a firmware that is a complete mystery and doesn't appear to function correctly. Also notably, the provided slicer requires excessive configuration for the default profile settings which also invites other gremlins into the scene. 

 

Why am I detailing this ?....3d printing in general is not a  plug and play affair. It does require some care, attention and time to learn the varied aspects involved, especially when you go the cheap route. DIY + cheap can end up being more expensive in the long run, especially if you don't invest time into it. That said, even with a high priced printer designed to be as user friendly as possible, there's still going to be issues at various times. 

 

Another thing to note is the profiles themselves within Cura for 3rd party printers are community contributed, the Cura developers  have little to nothing to do with them beyond gathering them up each release phase. If the profile itself  caused the issue, contact the manufacturer and get them to address what is at issue with the printers firmware and / or profile for use in Cura. 

 

Simply put, the onus is on you to ensure your printers compatibility with Cura ( which ever version you use ), and using 3d printers in general is not for the light hearted, especially when you're talking DIY kits from Chinese manufacturers. From the sound of it, you suffered an issue that could have been prevented by installing a $2 end stop on an axis, and was likely caused by the poor coding of the firmware driving it ( that seems to have misinterpreted the G-code commands issued by Cura ). 

 

Sorry you've had such a poor experience, for many of us Cura works extremely well once CONFIGURED correctly when used on a printer with STANDARD Marlin based firmware that has appropriate safely equipment integrated ( end stops ). I would recommend figuring out which 32-bit control board you have and learning the ins-and-outs of firmware updates, install some additional end stops and then configure a profile suitable for Cura. Perhaps even contact the manufacturer and see what they can do to address it, but Cura isn't to blame for your printers malfunction. 

[GregValiant 194]

Yes, that was a bad experience.  As Longtoke points out, it wasn't the fault of Cura.

 

When you push the "Home" button, Cura sends the command "G28" to the printer and that is all it does.  That G28 is interpreted by the firmware in the printer as "home all axis" and the printer starts the axis motors and moves the print head to the "0" endstops of the X, the Y, and the Z axis.  The speed that the motors run at is also set within the firmware and Cura cannot effect the homing speed.  It is then each endstop switch's job to inform the firmware "OK you can stop the motor now".  When everything is working correctly it really isn't possible to move beyond the switches.

 

So Cura simply sends 3 characters over the USB.  After that everything is handled by the printer.  Also, looking at the Tronxy forum on Reddit there are numerous owners using Cura as their slicer.  I don't think that would be the case if it was somehow destroying printers.

[Mari 28]

What colour of shirt were you wearing when you used Cura as slicer? Probably another colour then when you used Slic3r... so blame it in the colour of your shirt...😉

 

@GregValiant explained it very well what happens when you push the "home" button... If you don't trust the printer-profiles you get with Cura, create your own one!

[SandervG 1,423]

As clearly explained in the responses, it does not seem to be Cura's fault but rather the firmware. Therefor I have corrected the title claiming it was Cura's fault, which can be considered false and (probably unintentionally) misleading. 

[geert_2 473]

I don't know that printer, but just a thought: if it is a self-built machine, couldn't it be that the end-switches (=the ones that should activate when homing the head) are mounted or wired incorrectly? So that they do not give contact? Or way too late? That would also cause it to keep going.