Jump to content
Ultimaker Community of 3D Printing Experts

Help with settings for 1mm nozzle


Recommended Posts

Posted · Help with settings for 1mm nozzle

Greetings!

 

I'm on an Ender 3, PETG (240/70) Latest Cura. I just got a 1mm nozzle to try,. I am trying to print a vase in Spiral, and am get this (see pic)

 

I could use some advice on setting up the 1mm nozzle settings.

 

Thanks.

 

 

1mm.JPG

  • Link to post
    Share on other sites

    Posted · Help with settings for 1mm nozzle

    If you will post the STL somebody will take a look.  Guessing from the image it looks like a problem with the model.

     

    Is that model solid through and through or is it hollow with a thin wall?

  • Link to post
    Share on other sites

    Posted · Help with settings for 1mm nozzle

    Hello!

     

    The model is on thingiverse here

     

    (STL attached)

     

    The Author had a special version for 1mm nozzles.  I've since tried 2 things. Turned off Spiralize, And was told to turn on PRINT THIN WALLS under SHELL.  Still looks crappy.

     

    I wanted to print those beautiful Spiral vases with transparent filament with the Thick layer lines. I'm surer you've seen that.

     

    sotvl_thick_1mm.stl

  • Link to post
    Share on other sites

    Posted · Help with settings for 1mm nozzle

    So, While I was waiting, I thought I'd open the same file in PrusaSlicer (SuperSlicer). 

     

    It sliced it okay (I really don't know PrusaSlicer at all)

     

    But it says "Manifold: Auto Repaired (192 errors)

     

    So, I'm guessing I chose a bad Vase model to start with.

  • Link to post
    Share on other sites

    Posted · Help with settings for 1mm nozzle

    In order to use "Spiralize", the model really needs to be a solid.  Spiralize then figures out where the outer walls should be, gets rid of the top, and generates the spiral path up the wall.  If it isn't solid, then Spiralize can't quite figure out a path that works and you get things like below (your model) where you can see the inside path is over air and would just make a mess.

     

    Untitled.thumb.png.16a8173b965153973c18ecf86bccabf3.png

     

    Below is also a vase model from Thingiverse.  You can see that it is solid throughout.  It slices as we would expect but because the outer "gear" features are so close together a 1.0 nozzle wouldn't do well with this one as a lot of definition would be lost.

     

    Untitled1.thumb.png.331e068e3bb4c39c84616a8b57210659.png

     

    You will come to find that the stock hot end on the Enders (and CR-10's) aren't very capable.  Consider that a 0.4 nozzle at 0.2 layer height results in a .08mm² area to fill while a 1.0 nozzle at .5 layer height is .5mm² to fill.  If you print with a .4 nozzle at 60mm/sec then the flow through the nozzle is 4.8mm³/sec but the 1.0 requires 6 times the amount of plastic.   To get the same flow through the nozzle (that we know it can maintain) with a 1.0 nozzle you would have to slow the Print Speed to about 10mm/sec.  You can print hotter to make up for the excessive cooling that the hot end gets at high flow rates (the plastic is removing heat), but at some point it just doesn't work right.  It's one of the reasons people move to Micro-Swiss or Volcano hot ends on their Creality printers.  They allow for big nozzles and higher speeds.

     

     

     

     

     

    • Like 1
    Link to post
    Share on other sites

    Posted · Help with settings for 1mm nozzle

    Larger nozzles also have less friction for the filament to pass through.  Typical nozzle pressures are very high.  The difficult part for the extruder is not the speed but the force.  So 5mm^3/sec might be the limit on a 0.4mm nozzle for your feeder but with a 0.8mm nozzle it has 4X the area and so it can print 4X faster with the same feeder force.  In other words with a 1mm nozzle, 20mm^3/sec is doable with a typical feeder.

     

    So you do not need to slow down the print speed with larger nozzles.  Make the line width match the nozzle and if the nozzle is twice as wide I like to make the layer height also twice as high.

    • Like 1
    Link to post
    Share on other sites

    Posted · Help with settings for 1mm nozzle

    Yes it was.  But even after the repair it wasn't suitable for Vase mode.  Now you know what to look for in the model.

     

    I've been noticing that lately, both here and on Reddit, there have been some comments like "I opened it in PrusaSlicer and it worked.".  What I think has happened is that Cura has gotten fussier about errors in the models and PrusaSlicer (at least some versions) skips over some model errors that Cura catches.  I think as PrusaSlicer evolves that it will also "notice" more errors.  

  • Link to post
    Share on other sites

    Posted · Help with settings for 1mm nozzle

    Maybe but I think it's backwards - I think prusa slicer automatically fixes many model errors.  I really don't know which is true.

    • Like 1
    Link to post
    Share on other sites

    Posted (edited) · Help with settings for 1mm nozzle

    I brought one of the bad files we've gotten lately into Prusaslicer.  Prusaslicer sliced it without complaining.  It does have a "Repair STL" command in the File menu.  When selected it brings up an "Open File" dialog and you can pick and repair the file without bringing onto the build plate.  It also informs you if the repair has succeeded or not.  It would be nice to get an acknowledgement from Cura as to whether a repair was successful or not.  I tend to use NetFabb (thanks for that one by the way) and I'm trying to figure out MS 3D Builder.

    Edited by GregValiant
  • Link to post
    Share on other sites

    Posted · Help with settings for 1mm nozzle

    Do you have the cura mesh tools plugin installed?  That can fix a few mesh errors.

  • Link to post
    Share on other sites

    Posted · Help with settings for 1mm nozzle

    Yea, it's installed but I'm not fond of it.  When I select "fix model normals" the menu goes away and there's no way to tell if anything actually is being done to the model unless you check the mesh again.  

     

    I'm stealing the thread here but one poster had a model that was watertight but was composed of some sub-meshes.  Cura ignored it but 3D Builder was able to fix that.  They are all tools in the toolbox.

    • Like 1
    Link to post
    Share on other sites

    Create an account or sign in to comment

    You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

    Create an account

    Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

    Register a new account

    Sign in

    Already have an account? Sign in here.

    Sign In Now
     Share

    • Our picks

      • New here? Get ahead with a free onboarding course
        Hi,
         
        Often getting started is the most difficult part of any process. A good start sets you up for success and saves you time and energy that could be spent elsewhere. That is why we have a onboarding course ready for
        Ultimaker S5 Pro Bundle, Ultimaker S5, Ultimaker S3 Ultimaker 2+ Connect.   
        They're ready for you on the Ultimaker Academy platform. All you need to do to gain access is to register your product to gain free access. 
        Ready? Register your product here in just 60 seconds.
        • 11 replies
    ×
    ×
    • Create New...