Thanks for the video link. Not sure why theirs works and mine doesn't but that is ok! I have gone and purchased a bunch of different products off Amazon. One of them will have to work 😛
Carla_Birch 116
53 minutes ago, subnoizellc said:Thanks for the video link. Not sure why theirs works and mine doesn't but that is ok! I have gone and purchased a bunch of different products off Amazon. One of them will have to work 😛
If you really wanted to go back to PEI btw, buildtak make it for the S5 with there flexplate system: https://www.buildtak.eu/product/buildtak-flexplate-system/
Actually, Magigoo for PLA and ABS is just spectacular! I am continuing to evaluate but so far the prints are perfect (well, 3D printer perfect).
It sticks ABS really well and I haven't had any warping on the bottom layers and I have been printing gears and thin things purposely. Its just perfectly smooth.
If I can skip the PEI using Magigoo then I am happy. Personally, I have never had a great deal of success with ABS but if this continues my new favorite material is ABS.
The fact that once it cools the print is just sitting on the plate, no longer attached is also just a joy to work with. That said, open the print doors and your print will fail for the very same reason.
Thanks for your help! It was all valid and good info.
Edited by subnoizellctypos
Hey there!
Dissolve two or three glue sticks in a small container of water...
Heat bed to 60C+
I use a large foam brush and apply a thin layer of glue...
As the glue quickly dries, the glass will become opaque. Dry sweep with the same brush to remove the bubbles and lines.
Don't forget the extruder blob areas...the blob will come loose and it will drag thru the print...lol...
Anytime you remove the print, the glue will come with it, so remember to reglue...I've aborted, fixed whatever and reprinted and forgot to reglue and of course it came loose...
Cover the top for sure...I built mine out of PVC and a shower curtain, but I'm a heathen...UM has the cover and there are some 3rd party covers out there fairly cheap.
3-5 lines of brim for sure...Let's you also check the extrusion before before it starts the actual print. I've not found the need for more than 5 lines, really.
I learned this somewhere in these forums 5 years ago when I had an UM2. I just returned to printing 6 weeks ago with the S3, use this method and I can pick up the machine by the print...for real...don't do it, lol, I think the build plate will give first.
Hot and slow on the 1st layer...Cura has print 1st layer slower options.
Hope this works for you-
MadNess
Edited by MadNess69Forgot speed
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Carla_Birch 116
When using a glue stick, it's best to make like a grid layout with the glue stick and then get a damp cloth and rub it over the spread the glue out so its a nice thin coating.
They don't use the damp cloth in that to spread it because they joined all the glue lines up.
Personally i use sprays like 3DLac in my printers because its just more easy and i feel works better also.
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