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Many brands of PLA get brittle after 12 to 30 hours of being straightened. So the PLA on the spool should be fine but the rest of it should be thrown away. New PLA takes much longer than 30 hours to get brittle but even PLA that arrived today might have sat in a warehouse for a year.
Anyway to answer your question, you can remove the bowden tube at either or both ends. I think in this case it's easiest to remove the bowden on the print head.
Push the print head to one of the 2 front corners of the machine (just good practice because sometimes you are pushing things very hard and don't want to bend the rods going through the head but in this case you don't need to push/pull hard).
Then remove the little white clip - shaped like a horse shoe. Don't lose it. Then push down on that white ring (called a "collet") and simultaneously pull up on the bowden. Usually I can do it with just my fingers but you might want to use needle nose pliers to push down on the collet.
When you are done just slide the bowden back in (no need to push up or down on the collet) and then reinsert the horseshoe clip.
You might have to remove both ends. Don't forget which end goes to the feeder as that end has been modified to be cone shaped so the filament finds it's way into the bowden tube. Mark the feeder end with some painters tape or a sharpie.
To make @gr5's response a little bit more visual we also have a guide that describes the same steps with photo's here. The only thing I might add to these steps is to heat up your print core. The tip of the filament might be stuck in the nozzle/print core, and by heating it up it would get soft again and you could more easily pull the filament out of the print core.
thankfully that was easier than i had feared and now the printer is happily printing away! If my design works, the students will have their custom mooncake mold to make cakes with next week!
thanks again!
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Cura 5.7 is here and it brings a handy new workflow improvement when using Thingiverse and Cura together, as well as additional capabilities for Method series printers, and a powerful way of sharing print settings using new printer-agnostic project files! Read on to find out about all of these improvements and more.
S-Line Firmware 8.3.0 was released Nov. 20th on the "Latest" firmware branch.
(Sorry, was out of office when this released)
This update is for...
All UltiMaker S series
New features
Temperature status. During print preparation, the temperatures of the print cores and build plate will be shown on the display. This gives a better indication of the progress and remaining wait time. Save log files in paused state. It is now possible to save the printer's log files to USB if the currently active print job is paused. Previously, the Dump logs to USB option was only enabled if the printer was in idle state. Confirm print removal via Digital Factory. If the printer is connected to the Digital Factory, it is now possible to confirm the removal of a previous print job via the Digital Factory interface. This is useful in situations where the build plate is clear, but the operator forgot to select Confirm removal on the printer’s display. Visit this page for more information about this feature.
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gr5 2,167
Many brands of PLA get brittle after 12 to 30 hours of being straightened. So the PLA on the spool should be fine but the rest of it should be thrown away. New PLA takes much longer than 30 hours to get brittle but even PLA that arrived today might have sat in a warehouse for a year.
Anyway to answer your question, you can remove the bowden tube at either or both ends. I think in this case it's easiest to remove the bowden on the print head.
Push the print head to one of the 2 front corners of the machine (just good practice because sometimes you are pushing things very hard and don't want to bend the rods going through the head but in this case you don't need to push/pull hard).
Then remove the little white clip - shaped like a horse shoe. Don't lose it. Then push down on that white ring (called a "collet") and simultaneously pull up on the bowden. Usually I can do it with just my fingers but you might want to use needle nose pliers to push down on the collet.
When you are done just slide the bowden back in (no need to push up or down on the collet) and then reinsert the horseshoe clip.
You might have to remove both ends. Don't forget which end goes to the feeder as that end has been modified to be cone shaped so the filament finds it's way into the bowden tube. Mark the feeder end with some painters tape or a sharpie.
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SandervG 1,521
To make @gr5's response a little bit more visual we also have a guide that describes the same steps with photo's here. The only thing I might add to these steps is to heat up your print core. The tip of the filament might be stuck in the nozzle/print core, and by heating it up it would get soft again and you could more easily pull the filament out of the print core.
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JoJoShabbadoo 1
Thank you both very much, I'll give this a try!
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