Hot end ruining kapton surface, S5

[Super_paulie 7]

Has anyone developed a workaround or solution to the hot end basically ruining the surface of the kapton when it's doing the auto bed level? You can't turn it off, you can't tell it to wait until the end is cool, what gives? 

The bed surface is the "show face" of our prints so it's just littered with scars from the auto level. We might have to go back to the U2 unless we can find a solution as this is causing all our prints to be unviable. Not cool as this cost me £10k...

 

Any ideas guys? We use kapton as the prints are ABS and the bed surface/show face has to be perfect.

Edited October 11, 2021 by Super_paulie

[Gero 32]

That's why Ultimaker only recommends adding glue to the glass in order to get good adhesion.

 

I tested quite some decent amount of different adhesion glues.

 

So far the best one for almost every filament that worked for me is the Dimafix glue stick. 

So far my best weapon for ABS and ASA on the S5. 

 

Besides that, I upgraded my glass bed for a flexible spring sheet which I can bend to release prints. I also use Dimafix on this one, but it makes bigger parts easy to release without damaging them from any tool. 

 

This way I get smooth under sites. Just a drop of IPA to clean the bottom part of the glue. That's it.

[Super_paulie 7]

Yeah I've tried them all and kapton worked the best by an absolute mile for us when using ABS. No brim to remove, no clean up of the part, done. But now we've upgraded to the S5, well that's kinda snookered by this bed leveling with a blazing hot nozzle 🤷🏼‍♂️

[Smithy 1,088]

As @Gero already wrote, you don't need Kapton to print ABS, there are other solutions like Dimafix or the UM adhesion sheets. You cannot do the leveling with a cold nozzle, it would not be accurate enough, because the material expands a little bit after heating up. 

[mrender 1]

surely the heat expansion could be programmed in as an offset?

[Smithy 1,088]

Could be one way to solve the heat expansion, when it is always the same value. 

But UM decided to ship the printer with a glass bed and the active leveling as is, which is most user friendly and follows more the plug and play idea of the printer.

[Super_paulie 7]

I mean waiting an extra 30 seconds to cool down wouldn't have hurt? By the time it's at the far end of the bed the nozzle is cool and its not leaving any melt marks...

Edited October 13, 2021 by Super_paulie