In this stable release, Cura 5.3 achieves yet another huge leap forward in 3D printing thanks to material interlocking! As well as introducing an expanded recommended print settings menu and lots of print quality improvements. Not to mention, a whole bunch of new printer profiles for non-UltiMaker printers!
The UltiMaker S7 is built on the success of the UltiMaker S5 and its design decisions were heavily based on feedback from customers.
So what’s new?
The obvious change is the S7’s height. It now includes an integrated Air Manager. This filters the exhaust air of every print and also improves build temperature stability. To further enclose the build chamber the S7 only has one magnetically latched door.
The build stack has also been completely redesigned. A PEI-coated flexible steel build plate makes a big difference to productivity. Not only do you not need tools to pop a printed part off. But we also don’t recommend using or adhesion structures for UltiMaker materials (except PC, because...it’s PC). Along with that, 4 pins and 25 magnets make it easy to replace the flex plate perfectly – even with one hand.
The re-engineered print head has an inductive sensor which reduces noise when probing the build plate. This effectively makes it much harder to not achieve a perfect first layer, improving overall print success. We also reversed the front fan direction (fewer plastic hairs, less maintenance), made the print core door magnets stronger, and add a sensor that helps avoid flooding.
The UltiMaker S7 also includes quality of life improvements:
Reliable bed tilt compensation (no more thumbscrews) 2.4 and 5 GHz Wi-Fi A 1080p camera (mounted higher for a better view) Compatibility with 280+ Marketplace materials Compatibility with S5 project files (no reslicing needed) And a whole lot more
Curious to see the S7 in action?
We’re hosting a free tech demo on February 7.
It will be live and you can ask any questions to our CTO, Miguel Calvo.
Register here for the Webinar
Are you a fan of tree support, but dislike the removal process and the amount of filament it uses? Then we would like to invite you to try this special release of UltiMaker Cura. Brought to you by our special community contributor @thomasrahm
We generated a special version of Cura 5.2 called 5.3.0 Alpha + Xmas. The only changes we introduced compared to UltiMaker Cura 5.2.1 are those which are needed for the new supports. So keep in mind, this is not a sneak peek for Cura 5.3 (there are some really cool new features coming up) but a spotlight release highlighting this new version of tree supports.
Hello. My printer is an Ender 3 Pro so it is much like yours.
The "Anti backlash spring nuts" and "Dual Z axis kit" can wait. (I've never had a need for either.) If the Z kit is a belt drive or is going to run off a splitter then you can install it whenever you want. There are some that require a second Z port on the mainboard. You may need to look at that depending on the kit.
The "Bowden Tube" is a consumable. The piece that goes into the hot end gets damaged both at the nozzle, and from the jaws of the fitting that holds it. Usually just nipping 6 or 7mms off the end and then sticking it back in will give you another bunch of prints. Eventually it gets too short and then you will need the new one. You may as well wait on that install as well. When cutting the tube I would recommend a single edge razor. That cut must be as close to a perfect 90° as you can get it or you will have problems with clogging between the nozzle and the bowden.
The aluminum Extruder should be put on right away. The stock Creality extruder has a failure rate of near 100%.
I level with a piece of paper (but the software I've written has movement commands for leveling so I don't use the knob). If the CRTouch does NOT require a firmware update then you can install it whenever you want. If it does need a firmware update then you may want to wait until you get more familiar with the whole "update the firmware" thing. It can be a deep dark hole.
Getting that first layer to stick requires that the plastic gets squished to the bed. Calibrating the E-Steps is a big part of that. If not enough plastic is being pushed (under-extrusion) then you will struggle getting prints to stick.
Spherical shapes are tough. I am assuming that flaw you see is the Z seam where the outer wall extrusion starts and stops. It can be moved but you can't hide it on a round shape as there aren't any corners to hide it in.
Finally...The top of the egg requires support on the inside. Like Z seams - there are always "steps" in a print that are 1 layer height high. It's the nature of the process. When those steps are too far apart (geometry of the model) then they will fall in if they aren't supported.
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