UltiMaker uses functional, analytical and tracking cookies. Tracking cookies enhance your experience on our website and may also collect your personal data outside of Ultimaker websites. If you agree with the use of tracking cookies, click “I agree, continue browsing”. You can withdraw your consent at any time. If you do not consent with the use of tracking cookies, click “Refuse”. You can find more information about cookies on our Privacy and Cookie Policy page.
Hello. My printer is an Ender 3 Pro so it is much like yours.
The "Anti backlash spring nuts" and "Dual Z axis kit" can wait. (I've never had a need for either.) If the Z kit is a belt drive or is going to run off a splitter then you can install it whenever you want. There are some that require a second Z port on the mainboard. You may need to look at that depending on the kit.
The "Bowden Tube" is a consumable. The piece that goes into the hot end gets damaged both at the nozzle, and from the jaws of the fitting that holds it. Usually just nipping 6 or 7mms off the end and then sticking it back in will give you another bunch of prints. Eventually it gets too short and then you will need the new one. You may as well wait on that install as well. When cutting the tube I would recommend a single edge razor. That cut must be as close to a perfect 90° as you can get it or you will have problems with clogging between the nozzle and the bowden.
The aluminum Extruder should be put on right away. The stock Creality extruder has a failure rate of near 100%.
I level with a piece of paper (but the software I've written has movement commands for leveling so I don't use the knob). If the CRTouch does NOT require a firmware update then you can install it whenever you want. If it does need a firmware update then you may want to wait until you get more familiar with the whole "update the firmware" thing. It can be a deep dark hole.
Getting that first layer to stick requires that the plastic gets squished to the bed. Calibrating the E-Steps is a big part of that. If not enough plastic is being pushed (under-extrusion) then you will struggle getting prints to stick.
Spherical shapes are tough. I am assuming that flaw you see is the Z seam where the outer wall extrusion starts and stops. It can be moved but you can't hide it on a round shape as there aren't any corners to hide it in.
Finally...The top of the egg requires support on the inside. Like Z seams - there are always "steps" in a print that are 1 layer height high. It's the nature of the process. When those steps are too far apart (geometry of the model) then they will fall in if they aren't supported.
Link to post
Share on other sites
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Cura 5.7 is here and it brings a handy new workflow improvement when using Thingiverse and Cura together, as well as additional capabilities for Method series printers, and a powerful way of sharing print settings using new printer-agnostic project files! Read on to find out about all of these improvements and more.
S-Line Firmware 8.3.0 was released Nov. 20th on the "Latest" firmware branch.
(Sorry, was out of office when this released)
This update is for...
All UltiMaker S series
New features
Temperature status. During print preparation, the temperatures of the print cores and build plate will be shown on the display. This gives a better indication of the progress and remaining wait time. Save log files in paused state. It is now possible to save the printer's log files to USB if the currently active print job is paused. Previously, the Dump logs to USB option was only enabled if the printer was in idle state. Confirm print removal via Digital Factory. If the printer is connected to the Digital Factory, it is now possible to confirm the removal of a previous print job via the Digital Factory interface. This is useful in situations where the build plate is clear, but the operator forgot to select Confirm removal on the printer’s display. Visit this page for more information about this feature.
Recommended Posts
GregValiant 1,250
Hello. My printer is an Ender 3 Pro so it is much like yours.
The "Anti backlash spring nuts" and "Dual Z axis kit" can wait. (I've never had a need for either.) If the Z kit is a belt drive or is going to run off a splitter then you can install it whenever you want. There are some that require a second Z port on the mainboard. You may need to look at that depending on the kit.
The "Bowden Tube" is a consumable. The piece that goes into the hot end gets damaged both at the nozzle, and from the jaws of the fitting that holds it. Usually just nipping 6 or 7mms off the end and then sticking it back in will give you another bunch of prints. Eventually it gets too short and then you will need the new one. You may as well wait on that install as well. When cutting the tube I would recommend a single edge razor. That cut must be as close to a perfect 90° as you can get it or you will have problems with clogging between the nozzle and the bowden.
The aluminum Extruder should be put on right away. The stock Creality extruder has a failure rate of near 100%.
I level with a piece of paper (but the software I've written has movement commands for leveling so I don't use the knob). If the CRTouch does NOT require a firmware update then you can install it whenever you want. If it does need a firmware update then you may want to wait until you get more familiar with the whole "update the firmware" thing. It can be a deep dark hole.
Getting that first layer to stick requires that the plastic gets squished to the bed. Calibrating the E-Steps is a big part of that. If not enough plastic is being pushed (under-extrusion) then you will struggle getting prints to stick.
Spherical shapes are tough. I am assuming that flaw you see is the Z seam where the outer wall extrusion starts and stops. It can be moved but you can't hide it on a round shape as there aren't any corners to hide it in.
Finally...The top of the egg requires support on the inside. Like Z seams - there are always "steps" in a print that are 1 layer height high. It's the nature of the process. When those steps are too far apart (geometry of the model) then they will fall in if they aren't supported.
Link to post
Share on other sites