Ultimaker 2+ Connect Upgradeability

[MaritimeMan 0]

I can't seem to find too much information on this. When it comes to upgradeability, how does the UM2+C fair compared to other UM2+ and UM2 printers? My main worry is that all the smart features of the UM2+c mean a completely different backend than previous printers. Are any mods that require a firmware change impossible?

 

 

[Smithy 1,144]

The UM2+Connect shares the mechanics with the older UM2+, but not the electronics or firmware. It is completely different, the UM2 has an Arduino board , the UM2+C has a linux board called Onion. 

 

Don't expect any 3rd party firmware tunings or something like that. The printer has no running SSH daemon, so it is not easy to connect to the linux board and do some changes. Only chance would be to connect a console cable and try to login. I never tried it, my UM2+C is one of my most used printers and I haven't the need yet to change something.

[MaritimeMan 0]

So doing something like an e3d V6 swap is a no-go then? No way to PID tune or change extruder offset? Really the only issue I can see is some filaments I run do hit the 260 range and I'd like to not eat PTFE couplers.

 

 

[gr5 2,172]

On 7/22/2022 at 4:41 PM, MaritimeMan said:

My main worry is that all the smart features of the UM2+c mean a completely different backend than previous printers.

This is a very valid worry.  The UM2+ is much more hackable.  Not because the UM2+C backend is worse but because no one is hacking them at this time.  But for the UM2+ there is a whole alternate firmware (tinker marlin) and lots of people who can help you make changes to the code and published explanations of how to build Marlin for UM2 printers and so on.

 

On another note, there is a product called the i2k from 3dsolex.com which is supposed to keep the teflon about 100C cooler than normal.  It's meant for the UM2/UM2+ series printers but I suspect will work for the UM2+C.

[MaritimeMan 0]

Hmm, I've never heard of that kit, I'll have to shoot off an email. Ever tried one of your 1.75mm conversions on a 2+? I can't see anything that would cause issue with it.

[gr5 2,172]

You can convert a 2 or 2+ to 1.75 but I don't recommend it.  It might not print quite as well.  The 2+ feeder is fine as is.

 

The 2+ firmware I believe asks for filament diameter.  So those 2 things are all set.

 

The conversion kit from 3dsolex.com gives you a new block with smaller hole through it (2mm instead of 3.1mm) and you get teflon parts with smaller hole as well.

 

You can get 1.75mm nozzles from 3dsolex or e3dv6 or any e3dv6 compatible nozzle seller.  But the 3mm nozzles work fine - just takes longer to purge the nozzle.  and a cold pull might not work (not sure).

 

You can also get a "bowden in a bowden" from 3dsolex where the inner bowden has 2mm I.D. for 1.75mm filament and an O.D. that fits in the 3dsolex "normal 3mm bowden".  Plus an adapter that keeps the feeder from eating the inner bowden when retracting.

 

There isn't really any need for this unless maybe you are printing TPU (soft filaments).

 

Anyway you can do it.  It works.  Quality seems fine to me (I tried it for a few prints) but it might be worse - I don't know.

[LePaul 321]

I'm glad you asked, I had wondered what the upgrade path would be for that machine as well

 

I love my UM2+ and I really love my Ultimaker S5's I purchased for my workplace (six of them).  

 

I was hoping the 2 Connect would have a bit more of what the 3 and S5 have in a smaller package.  It doesn't and I haven't had a chance to print on one to really see what I like better on it over my 2+    I do like the door and how they are addressing the environmental issues (fumes/vocs/nanoparticles).  I feel like most people have no idea how these things will cause them harm later in life.